AMBAC 100 INJECTION PUMP TIMING ON 8070 ALLIS
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=189385
Printed Date: 18 Jul 2025 at 9:49am
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Topic: AMBAC 100 INJECTION PUMP TIMING ON 8070 ALLIS
Posted By: AMK82
Subject: AMBAC 100 INJECTION PUMP TIMING ON 8070 ALLIS
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2022 at 10:17pm
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I NEED TO REPLACE THE INJECTION PUMP ON MY 8070 ALLIS. I NEED TO KNOW HOW THIS PUMP IS TIMED AND WHAT DEGRESS TO SET THE ENGINE AT. I NEED TO REMOVE THE ONE FROM A DONOR ENGINE THAT I HAVE AND INSTALL IT ON THE ENGINE THAT IS IN THE TRACTOR. I AM FAMILAR WITH THE STANDEYNE PUMPS IN MY 7020 AND 7045 IF THAT HELPS ANY.
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Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2022 at 5:57am
Posted By: AMK82
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2022 at 8:56am
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How do you tell if the pump is timed after you put the engine at TDC.
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2022 at 9:07am
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Never fiddled with an M100 so I don't know where it's timing mark is located but for sure as Doc says the crank is set at 19 deg not TDC. If you don't have a manual you can probably use the internet to find it.
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Posted By: AMK82
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2022 at 4:57pm
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I understand 19 deg. Btdc. But the ambac pump doesn't have a plate to verify that the pump is in time. I need to get this pump replaced asap so I can get it back on the baler. I don't want to transfer the monitors for the baler to another tractor or level the draw bar again to a different tractor. I don't have a manual for the tractor and I've tried searching online with little success.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2022 at 5:33pm
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You can do it two ways. Time it at 19 degrees BTDC and if it won't start, return it to 19 degrees BTDC, remove the drive gear from the front of the pump, turn the engine ONE full revolution back to 19 degrees BTDC and reattach the gear. Or remove the side plate from the hydraulic head and look for a timing mark on the gear inside. The timing mark must be where you can see it, then you are on #1. So, you should do this first to remove the good pump and do it again to remove the bad pump.
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2022 at 9:13pm
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Remove side plate on side of front timing cover. There is a pointer and a scribe mark on hub of pump. When you go back together, paint the scribe mark with white out to make it easier to see. With front pulley on 19 degrees and pointer on scribe mark, you should be in time or 180 degrees out. MACK
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Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2022 at 2:26pm
Remember Ambac's have a one to one ratio vs the 2 to one on a Roosa...
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Posted By: WLHD21
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2022 at 9:22pm
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If pump is not sealed you can remove the four screws on the rotor cover and line up timing mark on rotor as well as the needle pointer when #1 is on 19 BTDC
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2022 at 8:11am
just remember the mark in the side cover just needs to be in the window, not lined up with the mark there, the pointer on the pump hub behind the drive gear is where you line up marks. When properly timed the mark in the side window will be off about a 1/4 to 1/2".
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Posted By: AMK82
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2022 at 1:21pm
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Thanks for all the information. The failed pump was missing the timing pointer.. It has been off before. The other pump has the timing pointer on it and has been rebuilt at least once already. Both pumps were timed identically when I removed them. I'm pretty confident the engine will start after bleeding the air out of the system.
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