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Allis CA |
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Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11777 |
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Good move with the Voltmeter Chris! Looks like there's a lot of work to be done, but none of them are ever easy and cheap! LOL! They all turn into projects. Ya just gotta' throw money at it and it'll come around...... Steve@B&B |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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Steve, Folks,
I must say you are the reason for the volt meters on the dash of each custom electrical system I install on a old Allis tractor. They seem to work fine and I have not had any issuses. This CA will be a neat little puller and may suprise some folks. They can do a pretty good job on the track I am told. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11777 |
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Just designed a wiring system and sent a bunch of parts out to a customer in the state of WA. He's building a CA puller for 2500 lb class I think it is. He's got super high compression in that little motor, and I just built him a custom OSGR Starter to turn it over cause' he couldn't find anybody to build him a starter till he found me. We eliminated that problem! Steve@B&B |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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Folks,
Well the plan is to assembly the front end of the CA soon and get the tractor turned around in the shop to pull the left wheel and the axle housing. I should go do some research on changing the brake drum. AC book makes it sound fairly easy. We will see. Our club is planning a few more pulls this year so would like to have this ready to go this spring even if I just re assemble and do some upgrades. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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Folks,
I think I will try the short arm front casting with the cast features for the weights. It seems to work freely, as the arm rotates with out binding. Brake drum is here so that project can start soon too. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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AC folks,
The CA is not moving along very fast. I did get the wide casting, short arm ,upper front casting installed. Also moved the alternator ahead another 1/4 inch to have better alignment with fan and crank pulleys. Need to get the CA mobile again, to move it under the jib, for work on the brake drum issues. Tractor pulling will be here soon. Off to try to trim apple trees today. Then soon to get ready to put up Maple sap tubing lines. Yep that time of the year is coming. With spring not that far away. Hope things are good in Orange land! Regards, Chris Edited by Sugarmaker - 17 Jan 2023 at 6:03pm |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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tadams(OH)
Orange Level Access Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Location: Jeromesville, O Points: 10099 |
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If your weather is like it is here in Ohio it would be a nice day to trim apple trees. I trimmed mine a couple weeks ago when we had them warmer days. Enjoy that CA, that's what I learned to drive on when I was 10.
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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Folks,
I got a pretty nice manifold form a AC parts guy in NY. The ears on mine are broke Shop will be used for working on Grandson Nics new to him van for his electrical business. Stripping old wordage off the sides and getting it ready for his suppies and tools. Regards, Chris Edited by Sugarmaker - 18 Jan 2023 at 6:23pm |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1955 |
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Looks like progress! Going to get the manifold resurfaced or is it pretty flat?
I suppose you should let Nic use the shop. He did a lot of wiring in it, right?
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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T adams, John, AC Folks,
Yes Nic has full access to the shop anytime. His wiring work really makes it a great place to hang out and occasionaly I do some work/ play also! I need ot check the flatness, and probably take the manifold to a machine shop and have it surfaced. That would be the right thing to do! The CA tractor waits! Spending a lot more quality time with the wife now days. Things change in life. We are enjoying our breakfasts together at the local dinor several days a week. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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Allis folks,
Worked on the CA toget it back on its feet today. As I looked throught the AC book on the VA I found that the manifold that I got was not the gasoline version? Not sure if this new manifold would work?? Removed the remaining inside race of the lower front spindle bearing. Cut most of the way through it then it was able to be tapped off. Added new lower seal. Inserted the outer race. I did not have new upper seals. So we are just going with what ever remains in there. Greased up the bearing really good. Short arm was used for this test: A couple iterations on the shims under the bolt for the gear. (I did set the timing marks correctly) Well the goal was to have it steer better. It does, but not sure its as good as new? Still not extremely smooth. Tractor steers same distance in both directions. I can now move the tractor around in the shop and begin to think about the brake drum replacement on the left side of the tractor. Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 22 Jan 2023 at 7:17pm |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1955 |
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Looking good. On the manifold, I'm not sure that the CA ever had the version with the data plate on it (that's what would mount in that sort of rectangular opening on the side). The B for sure and probably the C had that one. I don't think it would be an issue... Check the carb flange size and make sure it matches up but I bet it'll work.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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John, Allis Folks,
The book shows a shield going over that arfea of the manifold for the non gas version. Maybe building up more heat?? I will check the carb hole spacing next. Paul should be along soon to answer this manifold issue?:) Might take the front end apart and add a shim between the castings? Might be too tight on the steering gears? Just dont want too much slop either. Book says shim as needed! Easier said than done! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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PaulB
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4711 |
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Now that you ask: The early manifold that you have works on any BE/CE head. Yes on the kerosene engines it should have an extra shield for more heat, it would also help if you wish to run E85. Those early manifold should have the same carburetor bolt spacing, no big deal to widen them if needed. However the ports and passage up from the carburetor may be somewhat smaller than the later manifolds. Also easily taken care of.
I suppose that you got the early manifold because it was cheaper than a NEW one. I'd still be tempted to get a NEW one and sell the early manifold to a B/C restorer looking to appease the correct police. Those early manifolds in perfect condition are worth more than the NEW ones cost.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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Paul,
Thanks for the information on the manifolds. Sometimes we just do things because we just dont know!:) Still learning on these CA's. Yes I see manifolds from Stieners for sale too. Good suggestions. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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AC folks,
I jacked up the tractor, loosened the lower casting fastners enough to get .020 inch shims in four places. tightended the bolts and checked for clearance in the sector gear. There was a little. Now this might have gone away if I had lowered the tractor. Shortened the two castelated nuts for the drag link to allow cotter pimns to be inserted. Then proceeded to make some minor improvements to the steering wheel. Old, cracked, and crusty with black stuff coming off on your hands. You know what I mean. Sanded the hand grip area, filled in the cracks with 2 part 5 minute epoxy, sprayed a coating of flat black just to get started making it look better. Sanding required to smooth the epoxy a little, then a couple coats of black finish. Should be just a tad better for the old CA, and whoever may be driving. Would love to see my great granddaughter pulling this tractor in another 12 years! Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 23 Jan 2023 at 3:21pm |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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IBWD MIke
Orange Level Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 3702 |
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Chris, good to see you're making progress on the latest Orange project! How's the pup doing?
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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Mike,
Ruby is untrained and spoiled rotten! She is in control most of the time! Perfect! The steering wheel update looks good! Pumping up the front tires helped bring the steering to a acceptable condition: I did move the CA around to get the left rear under the jib. Brake work next up. Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 24 Jan 2023 at 6:56pm |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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IBWD MIke
Orange Level Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 3702 |
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Ah, looks like a happy pup. Steering wheel looks good too.
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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Guys,
I am ready for the majic words on getting the old brake drum off the shaft. I do have the lock nut and lock screw out of the old drum. All the exterior of the old drum is broken off down to the hub. Tried some heat and pry bar. Some heat from the blue wrench. Some Kroyl. Some sawsall work some cold chisel blows. A little action with pry and air chisel. Well it hasnt moved yet! But we will get it. Thought about some type of puller working against the end of the shaft?? By the way these top pins are way eaiser than WD style lower brake pins! And Paul was right the brake bands were junk! Some shots as I removed the left rear housing: I would like to get in and cut the old drum down to the keyway. But I just dont have a tool to do it. So I came here to ask for some advice from those that have removed CA brake drums. Regards,
Chris Edited by Sugarmaker - 26 Jan 2023 at 7:34pm |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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sparky
Orange Level Access Joined: 13 May 2011 Location: So. Indiana Points: 1547 |
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Suggestion. Before you go back with the final drive I would replace the axle seal in the transmission housing. Good luck on your repair.
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It's the color tractor my grandpa had!
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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Sparky,
Yes I was thinking the same thing. And that means I need to pull the other side also!:( But its the right thing to do. This poor old tractor probably needs everything! Just not sure I want to go that deep? Thanks for the suggestion on the seal/s. Now would be the time for sure! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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sparky
Orange Level Access Joined: 13 May 2011 Location: So. Indiana Points: 1547 |
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If you’re pulling both sides yes. New seals every time while you’re in there.
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It's the color tractor my grandpa had!
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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Sparky, Folks,
New seals ordered from Sandy Lake. Friend John and I worked on the brake drum removal. It is not a easy task. Broke off the exterior portion. Used a dremel and a small wheel to slit the casting about 3/16 deep above the keyway. Then a cold chisel through the drilled hole and it continued and split the casting. A lot of prying and choice words. The key was actually hard to get out too. I wanted to clean up the axle, and finally got it but not easy to get in through the hole in the exterior. Installed the new brake drum, and set screw/ lock nut. Ruby was checking out the old brake drum: Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Phil48ACWC
Silver Level Joined: 17 Jan 2013 Location: Vermont Points: 288 |
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Great Dog!!! He knows a busted brake drum when he sees it.
Edited by Phil48ACWC - 28 Jan 2023 at 7:42am |
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1955 |
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Ha, Ruby's having fun! I had to do the brake bands in one of my Bs, but I've not had to pull a drum off yet... No trouble for you.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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IBWD MIke
Orange Level Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 3702 |
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As much fun as you had with that be glad it was the left one. I could really use a right, hard to come by! My guess on Ruby's interest, drum might smell like mice?
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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Guys,
Yes the entire casting cavity was full of mouse nests, and debis! What a mess! I think I would build some type of puller and or get a grinder small enough to get in the brake hole to cut the old drum apart. Cutting down above the keyway is the way to split the cast drum. After I salvaged the key and installed the new drum over the key, I tightened the bolt/ lock nut down. But the new keyway in the drum must be deep because the key kicked up more than I expected when viewed from the end. Humm?? Still looks like the key will work. Off topic: Today was all maple related with a annual membership meeting and dinner. Then Cheryl and I strung another 200 taps ( about 1/3 of our total ) this afternoon. Hope things are good in Orange land! Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 28 Jan 2023 at 5:15pm |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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PaulB
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4711 |
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The key in the drum only needs to do enough for the brakes, no power is put to the wheels with that key.
Although those hand clutches (in good working condition) in the RH housing will handle more power than the factory engine clutch, for a dedicated puller I've always put a LH pinion shaft in the RH housing. It also looses a few pounds by replacing the hand clutch with a LH shaft and brake drum.
Edited by PaulB - 28 Jan 2023 at 7:32pm |
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8270 |
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Paul, Folks,
This tractor has had the hand clutch removed and the brake drum looks pretty good on the right side. But I think I will try to pull that side apart and put in tha new seal for the rear diferential. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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