Allis 220 engine oil issues

Make sure the insert where the oil pressure piston seats on is in the block

I purchased the tractor about 8 years ago and have used it for odd jobs. When i bought it the block has either been out and hot tanked or a different block. (its brown) I don't recall the oil pressure an issue before but not sure if electrical was all working correctly. I decided to try and restore the tractor for one of my boys so we decided to rebuild the engine to start with. I have had engine out twice now because i cant get pan off. I pulled pan and flywheel and rear plate as we seem to also have a bad rear main seal leak( i had just replaced the seal and sleeve on flywheel.)Its laying on its side at the moment so i thought that would be a good way to check bearings. I put a standard kit in it. This is the second oil pump i have put in it and i keep thinking that its the problem but unfortunately i cant purchase a new one (unless someone can tell me were to purchase a new one) I have also made sure that the seat is correctly seated for the pressure regulator. I have done many engines but will admit this one seems to have me stumped. I appreciate any advise.

unfortunately i don't have the old bearing shells anymore. This definitely sounds like a possibility but i had the crank completely out of the block and i don't remember holes drilled in the block for the jets like i've seen in case and Deere engines. I should be able to see them with a mirror fairly easily? If this is the case .... what do i do??

welcome to the forum bill. Good luck with your engine. Hope as you go you keep sharing your progress with us all

Well I don;t know if to be happy or cry... So i hooked an air line with a rate controller on it and a applied 40PSI were i had my oil pressure gauge hooked up and yes this engine has piston cooling jets. What do i do now??? We bought the tractor at auction so i have no way of knowing the history. I looked this morning for the old bearing shells. I remember when i changed them that the new ones seemed not as wide as what i took out. It was a Reliance kit. Any suggestions what to do now would be greatly appreciated.

Make a trip to your favorite salvage yard and buy a good used crankshaft driven oil pump and lines AND the deep oil pan from a newer engine. Late 220's and all 210's would work. 7030 and up would be better. The front bolt holes in the oil pan might need some tweaking if it's from a 7030 or newer, because I don't know which front engine plate you have the thin (210-220) or thick (7030 and up).

The story goes like this: early 220's had the old style camshaft driven oil pump. They had increased its GPM's a bit from the D-21. They started having failures of the camshaft/oil pump gears where they mated together. Too much pressure on these gears on cold start-up, especially if the operator throttled it wide open with 30 wt motor oil. They quickly came up with the crankshaft driven oil pump as the permanent fix. I've never installed one, but on a 220 block I believe you had to drill two 1/2" holes and tap them to 1/2" NC threads. The oil pump update kit came with lines and a new oil pan. I'm under the impression your block is already drilled for this. The crank gear is the same. Timing cover I'm not sure about if it works as-is or needs some grinding.

This is a perfect example of why nothing gets pitched until the project is done. I really want to know what the upper main bearings looked like, as Dr mentioned above. If they were blocking the cooling holes, then that would explain why it seemed to work ok before. But, my concern here is if they were open, and it worked ok, then did you put standard bearings on an undersize crank? Engine had obviously been worked on by the block being a different color, maroon, or just bare iron? Now, go find the old bearings so we can all rest easy lol!

There have been a couple of different designs over the years. Anything crankshaft driven from a 426 will be far better than what you have currently. Get everything !!

Seems like todays kits come with upper shell made for jets and if block don't have em it just dead heads so doesn't matter. I'd do what it takes to keep the jets functional. Should be able to do as Dr says and get everything from salvage yard and bolt it on. Use the phone  and tell em what you're doing. Bolts and all. Plenty of salvage in US and they all ship.

I'm betting you have a replacement block. They have no data plate. One can be added. Probably has the 4 little holes with no sign of a drive rivet ever installed.

Edited by SteveM C/IL - 07 Mar 2021 at 10:13pm

Piston cooling jets are simply a small drilled hole in the blocks upper main brg saddle. No screw in jet orifice. So, this block/short block must have been a new replacement block manufactured at a time after piston cooling was common place on the 3000 series engine. That's just fine, as long as the upper main bearing shells are old school non-piston cooling type, which covers up the jet hole. Those style bearings are no longer available and haven't been for some time, so the solution is the larger GPM volume oil pump.  There should have been instructions with that block/short block warning about this when it was assembled by someone in the field. I know that AGCO had a bulletin that instructed tech's to plug that jet hole with a steel ball to plug it, but you cannot do that on an in-frame overhaul because the crankshaft has to be removed. The crank driven oil pump is a much better deal anyway. The pan holds more oil too.

Edited by DrAllis - 08 Mar 2021 at 7:14am

I’m hoping this works to post pictures of my engine.
Thanks Bill.

When Doc weighs in he'll know whether those are pump mount holes up front and I'm wondering about that front cover. Almost doesn't look like there's room for the pump gear to get to the crank gear and still fit in the pan.

Edited by SteveM C/IL - 08 Mar 2021 at 8:22pm

That is the old style block which does not have piston cooling, unless some one drilled the block.                MACK