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Nautyboss 
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Joined: 30 Dec 2011
Location: Arkansas
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 Topic: AC WD I think
Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 7:12pm |
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NDBirdman
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Joined: 30 Jul 2011
Location: ND
Points: 1435
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Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 7:19pm |
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Looks like a WD to me, the serial number is stamped on the real axle housing below the left brake access cover.
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1955 WD45 S#205467, 190XT #6652 DXT
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Eldon (WA)
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Location: Spokane, WA
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Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 7:20pm |
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Number should be stamped in the vertical surface right above your screwdriver handle.
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ALLIS EXPRESS!
This year:
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Farrell(Utah)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Springville, Ut
Points: 555
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Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 7:22pm |
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Welcome to the Allis group. You have a WD. The serial number is on the flat area above the adjusting screw for the left brake. The screw is about three inches below the brake cover. It will start with WD______.
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A(1937), 2 G, 2 WD45 diesels, 6 WD45 gas, UC, 2 WD, D17 gas, WF, Farmall 400, D12, Kubota B3030
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Nautyboss
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Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 7:28pm |
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I have searched that area and see no numbers
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Farrell(Utah)
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Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 7:30pm |
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Geez, I am slow on the draw. Your posts hit while I was thinking.
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A(1937), 2 G, 2 WD45 diesels, 6 WD45 gas, UC, 2 WD, D17 gas, WF, Farmall 400, D12, Kubota B3030
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Nautyboss
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Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 7:30pm |
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Can anyone tell me what displacement the engine is?
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CTuckerNWIL
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Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 7:36pm |
Early WD's had the serial number stamped in the top surface of the differential housing on the right side of the left brake cover. You may want to look there if there is no number stamped on the aforementioned place. Follow the link to see exactly where the serial number is stamped. http://people.clemson.edu/~wsmth/SNLocat/ACSN4.htm332600 is a 1952 engine block but that doesn't necessarily mean the tractor is from that year. A lot of these old things have had transplants. Another possibility is something happened to the rear end and a new housing was used to correct the problem. Replacement housings would not have had a number stamped in at the factory. So if there isn't a number where the pictures show after scraping off old paint, you may have a 1952 with a replacement diff housing. | Year |
Tractor SN Range |
Engine SN Range |
| 1948 |
7 - 9249 |
200775 - 210718 |
| 1949 |
9250 - 35444 |
210719 - 238901 |
| 1950 |
35445 - 72327 |
238902 - 278584 |
| 1951 |
72328 - 105181 |
278585 - 313931 |
| 1952 |
105182 - 126931 |
313932 - 337332 |
| 1952 |
127007 - 131242 |
337333 - 341970 |
| 1953 |
131243 - 146606 |
341971 - 358500 |
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Thad in AR.
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Location: Arkansas
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Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 7:45pm |
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I had to use a wire brush on a grinder to find the numbers on my wd45. They aren't stamped very deep on mine. By the way welcome to the forum. You'll fine any info you need right here.
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Bolivar Boy
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Joined: 27 Dec 2011
Location: wooster, ohio
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Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 8:14pm |
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your wd should have a 202 cu in engine, same as the wc but with the added benefit of a hydraulic over ride clutch. tell me, where did that lil allis come from..........
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 8:19pm |
 Bolivar Boy wrote:
your wd should have a 202 cu in engine, same as the wc but with the added benefit of a hydraulic over ride clutch. tell me, where did that lil allis come from.......... |
WC and WD are 201.0624 cubic inches. Not to be picky but always know as a 201.
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Bolivar Boy
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Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 8:35pm |
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i stand corrected tucker. will put my slide rule away.
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Nautyboss
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Location: Arkansas
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Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 10:56pm |
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My Dad did some car dealing about six yrs ago back in missouri and in the deal he got this tractor. I had it running when I moved them down here a little over 5 yrs ago, but it has been out in the weather and gotten some water down in the cylinders. I'm attempting to get it broke loose.
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Nautyboss
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Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 11:00pm |
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Thank you everyone for your help on this. After some wire brushing I did find the S/N WD122436, so I guess it is a 1952.
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
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Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 11:18pm |
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I'm pretty sure MY WD's displacement has worn to 201.1731 cubic inches. Unfortunately, the bores are out-of-round, so they're not 'cubic' inches... they're measured in 'Rhombic Inches'... but for best accuracy, I verify them in CHAINS, and check the rod-length in RODS. The deck height must be measured in KiloAngstroms, and the stroke in MilliCubits. Hand me that micrometer and a piece of chalk- gotta make this a very precise cut with the torch!!! ;-}
Edited by DaveKamp - 30 Dec 2011 at 11:19pm
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B26240
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Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 7:40am |
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That's good Dave!! and yes welcolm to the forum! a WD is still a very usefull tractor, please don't give up on her!
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Ted J
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Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 8:13am |
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Welcome and get her fixed! They are wonderful playthings/workers. Good luck!
That's good Dave, I like it! I think my 45 is the same way.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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CTuckerNWIL
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Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 8:47pm |
Bolivar Boy wrote:
i stand corrected tucker. will put my slide rule away. |
and here I kinda thought you had fat fingers and hit the wrong key. I used to be able to use a slide rule and still have one or 2 around but probably couldn't get as close as you did if I tried now. Dave, that went WAY over my head!! LOL
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allischalmerguy
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Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 9:02pm |
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Nautyboss,
What are you using to break the pistons free? Acetone with autotransmission fluid works good I am told. Your WD has the brackets on front for a 2 row cultivator and it looks like it still has the radiator shutters? Welcome to the group. There are lots of neat people on here and you will find lots of good advice. Don't be afraid to ask questions!
Pastor Mike
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Nautyboss
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Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 9:48pm |
I was wondering what the brackets were for, and yes it does still have the shudders. As far as getting it unlocked, I let it set the first night with all the cylinders full of oil, since I have just been keeping in soaked with a rust inhibitor. Also, if I jacked up the back wheels and put it in gear, shouldn't it engage the engine?
Can anyone tell me the proper way to get the starter off this thing? |
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Alberta Phil
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Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 10:28pm |
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First disconnect the starter cable and starter rod.
There is a large set screw with a lock nut on the left side in the bellhousing just ahead of the starter. It may be a hex head or a slot. Loosen the locknut, and remove the set screw. It has a taper on the inner end that engages a tapered hole in the nose of the starter. Once this is out, a large screwdriver or prybar can be used to start it loose, then pull it back out of the bellhousing.
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 01 Jan 2012 at 11:09am |
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Once you get the starter out, try and turn it again... it might just be a jammed starter gear... happens sometimes. Speaking of which... I got a WD sitting in the driveway that I need to move in and unstick... it was free about 5 months ago... hope it's not bad...
Fix that WD up- they're sweet!
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TedBuiskerN.IL.
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Posted: 01 Jan 2012 at 11:26am |
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It looks to me like someone welded the lift arm shaft to the right side support. Am I seeing that right?
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Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
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TREVMAN
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Posted: 01 Jan 2012 at 12:30pm |
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Fill the cylinders with acetone, auto trans fluid. Put the tractor in high gear and rock it. I recently freed my WD doing the above. It took a couple weeks of sit, rock, sit rock, but it freed up and it was pretty gross inside. You are gonna want to take the advice I took from more knowledgeable men on the site here and pull the head. Clean the cyls up using the atf/acetone mix with some fine grit wet/dry paper, and the clean, clean, clean until you get sick of it, and do some more cleaning in the cyls with light oil and clean clothes. Drop the pan, clean, clean, clean. Squirt oil on all the bearings. Put it back together with a new head gasket and get it going, good luck, Trev.
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Dave (Mid-MI)
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Posted: 01 Jan 2012 at 12:37pm |
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The cultivator mounting brackets look like they have been modified. Do you have a drawbar for the tractor? Looks like it has a mounting bracket for a John Deere #5 sickle bar mower.
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Nautyboss
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Posted: 01 Jan 2012 at 12:45pm |
I have the head off and have cleaned the cylinders using a wire wheel brush and 400 wet/dry paper. I have pulled the pan and lubed everything. I have soaked the cylinders in oil, rust inhibitor, diesel, and am ready to try anything (just about). What kind of ration do you use with atf/acetone? I have tried turning it over with the starter (which I have since taken out). I tried turning it from the crank shaft, and I have tried putting it in gear and rocking the tires. When I do that, the tires turn but the engine doesn't. I have visually inspected the clutch and all seems ok there. A while back we had tried to push start it and it would roll, but when you let out the clutch the wheels locked and motor not turn. Any ideas?
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 01 Jan 2012 at 5:46pm |
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Did you make sure the hand clutch was locked in when you rocked the wheels?
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TREVMAN
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Posted: 01 Jan 2012 at 6:48pm |
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Keep it soaking in 50/50 atf/acetone, and keep rocking everyday...Trev.
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
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Posted: 01 Jan 2012 at 7:25pm |
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I use ATF/acetone 50/50 and fill up each cylinder all the way to the top. The last one I freed up I let the mixture sit in each cylinder and after about a week, the level started to drop. I refilled to the top and let it drain down, and repeated for another week. Then I started rocking the wheel and she popped free and was good to go. I did like you did and took the head off so I could see what was going on and how bad it was. After it was free, I put the head back on and got it running. Good luck and if you got any questions, ask on here and there are plenty of knowledgable people that will be more then happy to help you out.
Edited by ChuckLuedtkeSEWI - 01 Jan 2012 at 7:27pm
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Ted J
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Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 7:21am |
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I've seen talk on the forum here where the transmission is locked into 2 gears and thus it won't move? Would that affect the starting/turning over of the engine? Just a thought. There are a lot of smarter guys that can help with this idea.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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I know this is not a new subject but here goes.... Obviously I'm new here. I have what I believe to be a WD. I have the engine S/N WD332600PA. I have searched the real axle and have found nothing but casting marks. It does have the straight shifter and the number in front of it is 200931. The number is cast into it though and not stamped; however there is a plate above the number that appears to read R-K-KL (it could be an A at the beginning), and there appears to be a 6 stamped in below the cast number. Can anyone help?
