![]() |
This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | |||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
7060 questions |
Post Reply ![]() |
Page 123> |
Author | |
plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3764 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 17 Dec 2023 at 8:35pm |
My early maroon 7060 looks like is needing special attention. Beginning with what appears to be some serious blow by. If that isn't concerning enough recently the oil pressure light was taking much longer to go out than usual to a point it wouldn't go out at all today. I have another 7060 just sitting for now so I swapped oil sending units and that worked as normal so suspecting a defective sending unit. Which brings a question. I want to install a pressure gauge to check actual pressure. What PSI should expect to see? Hour meter shows over 11000 hrs. Accurate? I don't know. What was done to it by PO? I don't know. I have plans to drop oil pan and check rod bearing clearance. Another thing I checked, loosened the oil drain plug and got about a pint of antifreeze out of it. Didn't want to see that. Will find more information after pan drop. Coolant system doesn't seem to be pressurized with engine running but will do further testing. Injector pump leaks around throttle shaft.
|
|
![]() |
|
Sponsored Links | |
![]() |
|
Lynn Marshall ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Dana, Iowa Points: 2343 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
55 PSI , hot oil pressure. I wouldn't worry about that right now. You have water in the oil. That is causing a steam to come out of the breather tuber. Take the pan off and pressurize the cooling system to determine how the coolant is getting in the oil. Probably a sleeve seal and maybe caused by a scored piston. Correct the leak and replace all the bearings while there. The injection pump leak is fairly easily fixed as long as you don't twist off any of the top cover screws and don't drop any of the parts into the pump.
![]() |
|
![]() |
|
plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3764 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Finally got it in the shop and dropped the pan. Coolant is dripping off the #4 cylinder over the main bearing.
|
|
![]() |
|
plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3764 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Very early in the tear down. Pulled #4 rod cap off
![]() ![]() Anyone know what the numbers mean? .010 under? The rod bolts are 12 point heads. Is this original? I think ARP bolts are like that. |
|
![]() |
|
DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21377 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
October 1975...std size
|
|
![]() |
|
SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8480 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
There were 12 point bolts before ARP showed up. ARP is stamped in the head.
|
|
![]() |
|
SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8480 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That brg appears to have no tin coating. Have seen car engines that way in 70's and 80's
|
|
![]() |
|
DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21377 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That's the way Federal Mogul bearings were. The Clevite brand bearings were 3-layer (tin-aluminum-brass). The 7080's were the first to get the Clevite bearings in the very late Fall of 1974. Kind of surpised this engine didn't have them instead of FM bearings.
|
|
![]() |
|
SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8480 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Who knows...my 83 8070 still had an original front upper main shell which was FM and it was tin coated but the rods and other mains had been replaced with Clevite 112's
|
|
![]() |
|
plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3764 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
A solid 10 hrs today and am down to ready to pull sleeves
![]() ![]() Pistons are scored on some, more than a half dozen broken rings These are the top half of rod bearings ![]() Edited by plummerscarin - 10 Feb 2024 at 9:15pm |
|
![]() |
|
Lynn Marshall ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Dana, Iowa Points: 2343 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Couple of things. I use a hydraulic jack and a fairly big rod to push the sleeves out from below. It might be a good time to get the radiator checked out. Scored cylinders can certainly come from overheating. It looks like the tractor is still using the luber finer filter setup. Those things can leak when you least expect it and cause even more headaches. I would be looking for an 8000 series bypass filter or depending on the work load, just eliminate it.
|
|
![]() |
|
plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3764 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I got this tractor at auction in 2019 and shortly after getting it home found the rad to be leaking so it was recored then. I admit it overheated a couple times. Once when the upper hose blew off. Other times at first start up it would climb to 220 per the temp gauge then after a few minutes drop to around 180 and remain the rest of the day.
The luber finer is still there. What type of leak would I expect. External? This is a small time operation and puts in 30 hours heavy tillage and roading wagons to town per year. Thanks for the tip on the jack |
|
![]() |
|
Lynn Marshall ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Dana, Iowa Points: 2343 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Might be a good time to change thermostats. I have put on a fair share of mechanical heat gauges on those tractors because of the inaccuracies of the electric gauge. The luber finers usually leak externally from the top cover gasket. If you don't notice it right away, especially at night, you will notice the red, oil pressure light, shining in your face. By then, it's usually to late.
|
|
![]() |
|
plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3764 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've replaced the thermostats twice and have not solved the issue. I think I'll invest in an infrared thermometer to compare with. I have a 7040 the PO installed a temp gauge as you suggested. The two gauges do read differently
|
|
![]() |
|
ryan(IN) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Bluffton,IN Points: 768 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
|
|
ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62 |
|
![]() |
|
plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3764 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Local Agco dealer
|
|
![]() |
|
ryan(IN) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Bluffton,IN Points: 768 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
A few years ago the thermostats agco were selling were like what you could get from A&i or other aftermarket’s and they did not let enough coolant flow. The thermostats they sell now are correct. Our 8070 and 7060 were both running warmer that they should with re cored and an extra row of tubes in the radiator. Took out those junk thermostat and replaced with the good agco ones and temps came down. Gotta really work the 8070 to get it go anywhere near 200-210.
|
|
ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62 |
|
![]() |
|
Ron(AB) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 27 Dec 2009 Location: Alberta Points: 959 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The luber finers usually leak because the orifice gets plugged in the bottom of the canister. Then they pressure up and leak around the top seal ring.
Only had it happen a couple of times on my 7050, but it could of been a bad filter with a lot of loose particles. |
|
405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk
|
|
![]() |
|
plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3764 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I understand what you're all saying about the luber finer. When I initially drained all the oil there was big spurt of air come out the drain tube. This was after it had sat a couple days. It will be going away.
I was granted the use of a sleeve driver and they have all been removed. ![]() It actually lifted one tire off the floor before popping loose. I reckon some of you may get a chuckle out this but I was not aware how much coolant would come out of there after the first sleeve came out. Where does one drain the block after the radiator stops dripping? Thanks for all the help from everyone so far |
|
![]() |
|
AllisFreak MN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Dec 2009 Location: Minnesota Points: 1574 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I'm curious what this "luber finer" is and where?
|
|
'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
|
|
![]() |
|
8070nc ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 21 Mar 2019 Location: North Carolina Points: 561 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Ive never owned a tractor with one. Its my understanding that on tne intercooled tractors its a bypass oil filter. Ive seen pictures. It appears to be a housing with a oil bath filter between the engine and cab. On the 8000 series they changed to a spin on
|
|
1984 80780
1957 D14 DES 300 with 25000 engine 616 tractor |
|
![]() |
|
SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8480 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
There is a water drain in the very back corner of water jacket on left side. You about need to remove the starter to get to it. Also hiding behind heater and hyd hoses. You can rinse block a little with water and blow down inside to try to push it to the back drain to keep from having antifreeze running into main brgs. Jacking front end off ground helps.
|
|
![]() |
|
plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3764 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yeah, a little late for that now. Good to know for future projects but really hope not to go through it again. All the bearings will be replaced as that was the original plan before the leak started.
|
|
![]() |
|
JPG AUSTRALIA ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Points: 760 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
So was it a o ring failure or pinhole in sleeve?
|
|
![]() |
|
plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3764 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I’m still in cleaning phase and my accountant was helping remove the sleeves and set them out order. I’m leaning towards O ring failure as nothing else stands out yet
|
|
![]() |
|
SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8480 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
My experience pulling sleeves out of a 426 is there is no way to tell condition of oring because they are a t**d to get out through the top bore. Damage done.
|
|
![]() |
|
plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3764 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Steve is correct. As the sleeves came out the O rings were stretched and ultimately damaged pulling through the upper deck bore. This particular one may have failed before tear down.
![]() I'm no forensics expert but I think O ring failure. I backlit the sleeves and found no pinholes . I'm thinking the sleeves actually look pretty good. |
|
![]() |
|
plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3764 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Dug out a service manual I have for 7010,20,and 45 as well as an I&T for that series. Goal at this point is to verify rod and main bearing specs. I measured the rods so far and get a reading of 2.752" with micrometers. This is larger than what the books say. 7045 calls for 2.747". For a double check, I measured the mic with a dial caliper and got 2.747. I'm going with the notion the mics need calibrating and I have a good standard size journal. Next, check main size and cam lift specs. I'm good idea to get 7060 service manual.
|
|
![]() |
|
Lynn Marshall ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Dana, Iowa Points: 2343 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
There won't be much more information on the engine in a 7060 manual that a 7045 doesn't have. Fuel injection pump setting, luber finer, and intercooler information is about it.
|
|
![]() |
|
MrSnerdly ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 11 Jan 2024 Location: fairbury ne Points: 79 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Off topic, but have you considered a new vibration damper? John Deere recommends replacement at 4500 hours. I used to think this was unnecessary but the boys that farm most of my ground bought the majority of my equipment, one being a 4640, and it ran fine for several years but they broke the crank on it last year. I am sure they are not cheap but a lot less than a broken crank.
|
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
Page 123> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |