7020-Update to R134 A/C System?

It could be the compressor clutch bearing frozen also.
All the standard components can be used when converting. Be sure to install anew dryer, The compressor is a standard GM A6 like on the 70's cars and trucks.

1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A

...put on a new drier too.My 8070 was converted before I got it and pretty sure no hoses were replaced has the 134 adapters on the fittings so the compressor may be original? Workd good but I do think it could stand a t-stat switch.

Do A/C work all the time, obviously you'll need a compressor, definitely change out dryer and expansion valve, flush system with A/C flush, fill compressor with pag oil, pull vacuum for a couple hours, and fill er up with R134.

Go to AP Air inc for your parts.

How many oz of coolant does the system hold? Thinking about getting mine going too. My compressor was unwired. Hooked wires up and it will kick on with the thermostat now but doesnt get cold. What oil do you add?

LeonR2013 wrote:

You do want to change the dryer as already suggested. Take all the connections loose and replace the o-rings. They won't stand up to to the 134A. Make sure you flush the complete system. Contrary to air conditioning moguls, brake fluid works fine. Just tape the stem to the can so you won't blow it into system. Then blow the brake clean in until it blows clear and then until dry. Do this for all hoses, condenser and evaporator. Drain all the oil out of the compressor and refill with the correct AC oil. The new will adapt to some of the old but not a lot, and can seize the compressor. Seen it happen but not often. Your expansion valve needs to be changed for one that uses 134A The 134A uses a smaller orifice, so you get a colder operating system. Sounds like a lot to do, but really isn't and it also sounds more difficult but it's not.The added expense of new hoses with plastic liners is also not a bad idea. Hope this gives you an idea of what to get a good operating system. Leon R Cmo

Thought that sounded a little goofy even for you.

I see a reman pump & clutch w/2 yr warranty from Napa for a 79 Chev Pickup is $175 and a clutch is $90.

Would a pump off a pickup work?

D19D, D17D, WD, WC, Snobee, #83 Plow, SC Blade, 14' disk, 400 series planter, B , Terra Tiger, M Dozer w/Baker Blade, TL-12, 42S Grader, G

I've flushed components with brake cleaner before too. I always use my air vac to vacuum out the brake clean when done because compressed air can have lots of moisture in it along with condensation from the evaporating brake cleaner. Once I'm satisfied I've gotten it as dry as possible I add the oil and begin evacuation.

"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

I highly recommend the Sanden conversion from AP Air, it's got the real Sanden compressor not a cheap knockoff, bolts on easily and work's absolutely amazing. I installed everything myself all new hoses, compressor, and expansion valve. The old girl will freeze you out of the cab, I venture to say that it cools twice as good as it did when it was new. I've got $750 in the setup but it was money well spent!!

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