7020-Update to R134 A/C System?
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=123420
Printed Date: 16 May 2025 at 9:32pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 7020-Update to R134 A/C System?
Posted By: nowaktj
Subject: 7020-Update to R134 A/C System?
Date Posted: 16 May 2016 at 8:07pm
I bought the tractor with the air conditioning belts cut off. Pump appears to be frozen. Does someone make a kit to update these to R134? How many $$ are we talking for a kit?
Thanks Terry
------------- D19D, D17D, WD, WC, Snobee, #83 Plow, SC Blade, 14' disk, 400 series planter, B , Terra Tiger, M Dozer w/Baker Blade, TL-12, 42S Grader, G
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Replies:
Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:07pm
It could be the compressor clutch bearing frozen also. All the standard components can be used when converting. Be sure to install anew dryer, The compressor is a standard GM A6 like on the 70's cars and trucks.
------------- 1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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Posted By: Matt MN
Date Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:16pm
Fix the compressor, then just charge with 134A. There is no need for a conversion kit.
------------- Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!!
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:46pm
...put on a new drier too.My 8070 was converted before I got it and pretty sure no hoses were replaced has the 134 adapters on the fittings so the compressor may be original? Workd good but I do think it could stand a t-stat switch.
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Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:47pm
You do want to change the dryer as already suggested. Take all the connections loose and replace the o-rings. They won't stand up to to the 134A. Make sure you flush the complete system. Contrary to air conditioning moguls, brake fluid works fine. Just tape the stem to the can so you won't blow it into system. Then blow the brake clean in until it blows clear and then until dry. Do this for all hoses, condenser and evaporator. Drain all the oil out of the compressor and refill with the correct AC oil. The new will adapt to some of the old but not a lot, and can seize the compressor. Seen it happen but not often. Your expansion valve needs to be changed for one that uses 134A The 134A uses a smaller orifice, so you get a colder operating system. Sounds like a lot to do, but really isn't and it also sounds more difficult but it's not.The added expense of new hoses with plastic liners is also not a bad idea. Hope this gives you an idea of what to get a good operating system. Leon R Cmo
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Posted By: Carl(NWWI)
Date Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:59pm
Do A/C work all the time, obviously you'll need a compressor, definitely change out dryer and expansion valve, flush system with A/C flush, fill compressor with pag oil, pull vacuum for a couple hours, and fill er up with R134.
Go to AP Air inc for your parts.
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Posted By: sason
Date Posted: 17 May 2016 at 7:16am
i just replaced mine on the 7020 i just bought. compressor was locked up. i went to hycap and got the conversion kit to a more efficent compressor. they also have a kit to replace all hoses also. not needed but is available. i did lines so i should have to worry about it for years hopefully. here is the link to the compressor kit
http://www.hy-capacity.com/index.php?page=Search&partid=3448
------------- 180 with a turbo and 460 loader.
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Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 17 May 2016 at 2:32pm
How many oz of coolant does the system hold? Thinking about getting mine going too. My compressor was unwired. Hooked wires up and it will kick on with the thermostat now but doesnt get cold. What oil do you add?
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Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 19 May 2016 at 2:00pm
Leon you dummy, it's brake clean. Remember, BRAKE CLEAN.
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 19 May 2016 at 2:11pm
LeonR2013 wrote:
You do want to change the dryer as already suggested. Take all the connections loose and replace the o-rings. They won't stand up to to the 134A. Make sure you flush the complete system. Contrary to air conditioning moguls, brake fluid works fine. Just tape the stem to the can so you won't blow it into system. Then blow the brake clean in until it blows clear and then until dry. Do this for all hoses, condenser and evaporator. Drain all the oil out of the compressor and refill with the correct AC oil. The new will adapt to some of the old but not a lot, and can seize the compressor. Seen it happen but not often. Your expansion valve needs to be changed for one that uses 134A The 134A uses a smaller orifice, so you get a colder operating system. Sounds like a lot to do, but really isn't and it also sounds more difficult but it's not.The added expense of new hoses with plastic liners is also not a bad idea. Hope this gives you an idea of what to get a good operating system. Leon R Cmo | Thought that sounded a little goofy even for you.
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Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 21 May 2016 at 3:59pm
Steve you're right. I have been know to come up with some strange idears. But what if they work? LOL
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Posted By: nowaktj
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2016 at 11:38am
I see a reman pump & clutch w/2 yr warranty from Napa for a 79 Chev Pickup is $175 and a clutch is $90.
Would a pump off a pickup work?
------------- D19D, D17D, WD, WC, Snobee, #83 Plow, SC Blade, 14' disk, 400 series planter, B , Terra Tiger, M Dozer w/Baker Blade, TL-12, 42S Grader, G
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2016 at 12:40pm
If you're getting an A6 compressor, it should be the same. 79 is in the time frame that the A6 was dropped for the R4.
------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2016 at 12:44pm
I've flushed components with brake cleaner before too. I always use my air vac to vacuum out the brake clean when done because compressed air can have lots of moisture in it along with condensation from the evaporating brake cleaner. Once I'm satisfied I've gotten it as dry as possible I add the oil and begin evacuation.
------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2016 at 12:47pm
Dmpaul89 wrote:
How many oz of coolant does the system hold? Thinking about getting mine going too. My compressor was unwired. Hooked wires up and it will kick on with the thermostat now but doesnt get cold. What oil do you add? | Typically converting a R12 system to 134 will be about 80% of the R12 capacity. When I have converted them in the past I'll start at 50% and then sneak up on how much the system likes best.
------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: DIESEL
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2016 at 1:21am
I highly recommend the Sanden conversion from AP Air, it's got the real Sanden compressor not a cheap knockoff, bolts on easily and work's absolutely amazing. I installed everything myself all new hoses, compressor, and expansion valve. The old girl will freeze you out of the cab, I venture to say that it cools twice as good as it did when it was new. I've got $750 in the setup but it was money well spent!!
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