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7010 slippage. Power director or torque limiter

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DougG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2020 at 7:09pm
Im really not to familar with the 7000 series torque limiter ; but have followed all posts on them - is there anything different you can do to elimenate the torque limiter ? Seems they are quite a problem in these tractors
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2020 at 8:37pm
Double it and you will take splines out of the PD or something else.
While it is split, reseal PD. and rear main seal.       MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bleeds orange Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2020 at 8:53pm
"Double it" as in use one belleville spring not 2?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bleeds orange Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2020 at 8:53pm
Probably best place to get these parts would be agco dealer?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2020 at 9:02am
Despite neg post about torque limiters they are not a problem as a whole. If you have oil seals start leaking that oil will eventually get in the limiter and cause slipping. Not the limiters fault. Lots of hours and depending on type of use,the hub can break out...a wear item. When things are right they are not a problem. Part of the burnishing procedure when installing new is to center limiter on flywheel so the driven shaft doesn't eat up the splines on the other end being off center.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2020 at 9:14am
My uncle and my cousin have been full time farming with 7000 and 8000 series tractors since the mid 1980's and never has one had a torque limiter problem. I've been running a 7050 and 7030 for over 20 years and though I'm not a full time farmer, I've never had a torque limiter go out..... knock on wood Wink
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bleeds orange View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bleeds orange Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2020 at 12:32pm
Double it" as in use one belleville spring not 2?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bleeds orange Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2020 at 12:32pm
Probably best place to get these parts would be agco dealer?
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DougG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2020 at 2:13pm
Good luck with it,, a new assembly should last for years
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2020 at 8:57pm
Some used two Belleview washers and shimmed stands.      MACk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanWi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2020 at 9:54pm
Isn't a that what they are designed for to slip and protect the transmission? you would lose that by doubling up the washer. Unless you are tractor pulling and are making a bunch of horsepower and not up and down shifting all day long like a farm tractor. Those tractors are in the 40 year old range get a little oil leak and they slip. Fix the limiter and seals and be good for another 40 years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2020 at 9:54pm
Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

Some used two Belleview washers and shimmed stands.      MACk
BTDT
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Albertan7030 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 9:19pm
I’ve got a 7080 doing the same thing. I called about parts and the parts lady said the disc and spring are most common to wear. She said there is another plate to the assembly but it shouldn’t wear bad. Should a guy be doing the whole power director while he’s got it split or just seals? My power director valve needs seals for sure. The disc from AGCO is 4 pad which I have read is better because of surface area/ pressure? I don’t mean to steal a thread just trying to learn and help others that might need the same info. Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 10:31pm
The spring centered torque limiter is the shock absorber of the power train. The spring center absorbs the pulses of power as does the weight of the flywheel. This helps prevent wear on the teeth of the clutch discs on the PD or PS tranny as well as the splined coupler at the rear of the trans that powers the high low rear gears that powers the pinion. The torque limiter must be allowed to slip for max transmission life.  The original torque limiters were thought to be adequate because the testing was done by good operators and engineers ( keep in mind, if something fails in test - it has to be fixed - and the bean counters don't like that. Also some  things are cheapened up BY bean counters  - most have to restored to original design )  When the 7030's and 7050's went to the field then the 7040 60's and they wound up close to 20,000# then the complaint of  sluggish low hp came and the pumps were sent of and turned "10%" to get the customer off the service reps back, the torque limiters started failing.  The fix was to increase the thickness of the back plate, the belville  washer,  taller spools to allow for the thicker part and finally a shield to keep leaky trans and rear main seals from lubing the pads of the limiter.  The flywheel, if machined properly and if the proper parts were installed would hold 200 hp in all applications for thousands of hours. IF you double spring it - it will not slip.  IF you have a good operator who understands how to start a load it will never slip anyway - but we all boo boo and "pop" the clutch by accident or panic at times and that is when the torque limiter does its job by slipping a few revolutions allowing the engine to lug down and slowly start turning the gears avoiding a harsh, damaging clutch engagement.   Changing a torque limiter every few thousand hours is a lot less $$$ than a PS or PD or other failure.  Another way to check the slippage of the TL is to rev the engine to about 1800, turn on the PTO, hold the brakes and let out on the clutch fairly quickly to make the unit slip and have someone observe the PTO speed - if the pto never slows it is the PD/PS clutches, if it stops and the engine continues to run ,  it is the TL slipping...  be careful using this test as if the engine TL is not at fault and the engine lugs down - it can lower the speed of the pumps and allow the clutch to slip - which allows the engine to rev thus bringing the pump volume up which makes the clutch grab and the cycle will continue never killing the engine. Finally on a power director the high range clutch has no belville washer buffers thus requiring less pressure to engage.  If we have a PD slipping in low range we push the button or switch to high range and see if it pulls in high - this will be a rather violent shift if the low range is slipping.  One can also hold the high range floor button down and let out the clutch for a wheelly popping experience...  
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Albertan7030 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 10:54pm
Thanks for the reply. That is a pile of info. I did the brake test and the steering went dead as if I shut the tractor off. I agree some slip is better than a tranny rebuild but at 210 hp I should be able to drive around my yard without slippage! I am prepared to do the limiter as the tractor is 45 years old just wondering as mentioned before what a guy should do for sure as well as parts to get while it is split. Is that intermediate plate recommended like a pressure plate in a normal clutch set up or is it machinable like a flywheel if it is worn?
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