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7010 pto |
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allis/cattle
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Joined: 13 Mar 2014 Location: glenella mb.ca Points: 203 |
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Topic: 7010 ptoPosted: 21 Aug 2016 at 10:49am |
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I found a 7010 powershift with 4900 hours, stadium lights, mirrors, dual hydualics and 3 point hitch for 4500 bucks and it looks perfect but here's the catch it's got straight 1000 pto how hard is it to put in the dual shaft ? And would i need to change the clutch pack? Sorry don't have pictures yet planning on picking it up on wensday
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jiminnd
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Rutland ND Points: 2319 |
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Posted: 21 Aug 2016 at 10:59am |
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Didn;t know you could get 7010 with just 1000 pto, are you sure its not reversable?
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1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner)
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allis/cattle
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Joined: 13 Mar 2014 Location: glenella mb.ca Points: 203 |
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Posted: 21 Aug 2016 at 11:05am |
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I didn't either and yes I'm sure I have a 7040 with both so I know what I'm looking at
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shameless (ne)
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Joined: 08 Jul 2016 Location: nebraska Points: 7463 |
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Posted: 21 Aug 2016 at 2:46pm |
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my 7010 is reversable
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Tcmtech
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Joined: 15 Apr 2015 Location: Minot ND Points: 310 |
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Posted: 21 Aug 2016 at 7:15pm |
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If you're reasonably mechanically inclined it's not that hard. Cuss and swear in multiple languages messy but not that hard.
I pulled the dual speed PTO out of Dads 8030 loader tractor that never does PTO work to put it in his 7050 which is now the primary PTO work machine. It took me a few hours to do the swap but I had to do take it apart three times over two days because I screwed up the shaft seal between the 1000 and 540 shafts putting it back together twice. That's the only real hard part. That double shaft set is heavy and sort of awkward to hold while putting everything back in without chewing up the seal lips. ![]() Basically take your drawbar off and drain your rear end and transmission then drop the big rectangular plate at the back bottom. That will get you into your PTO gears and clutch. Then unbolt the cover that's over the clutch and pull it all out the back. On the dual speed PTO shaft set there is a large crown nut with a cotter pin and a half moon snap ring that hold the gears and bearings together. The crown nuts not so hard to deal with but the half moon snap ring is a bit of pain to knock out and put back in. That's about all I can recall that is of any important detail in the job. The rest is just brute force strength and swearing. ![]() Oh yea and I recomend drilling and tapping that bottom plate to add a drain plug back there that way if you have to ever go back in you don't have to deal with dropping that plate again with a gallon or more of fluid trapped above it a second time.
Edited by Tcmtech - 21 Aug 2016 at 7:20pm |
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allis/cattle
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Joined: 13 Mar 2014 Location: glenella mb.ca Points: 203 |
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Posted: 21 Aug 2016 at 10:20pm |
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That's exactly what I wanted to know thank you tcmtech
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Ron(AB)
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Joined: 27 Dec 2009 Location: Alberta Points: 962 |
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Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 11:02am |
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There is a very good post on this with pics if you do a search…
You will need the different gears, seals, o-rings and the dual pto shaft but it is very easy. Maybe two evenings in the shop and a trip to the tractor wrecker and the dealer for the parts. |
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Tcmtech
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Joined: 15 Apr 2015 Location: Minot ND Points: 310 |
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Posted: 31 Aug 2016 at 10:52pm |
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Just for a heads up my 7050 PTO shafts have somehow worked their ways loose and took out the seals so I really recomend you add the drain plug to the bottom plate incase you have something like this happen!
Guessing I either didn't get the center 1000 RPM shaft fully seated into the inner bearing (unlikely) or the crown nut that holds the shafts secure in the bearings somehow worked its lock pin out and spun loose (more likely) or I have an outer bearing that went out. (hope not) It's the only three things I can think of that would let the shafts get loose like that. EIther way, that drain plug sure saves a guy from a mess if you have to go back in and redo something! ![]() BTW if you want to just drill a hole and drain it before dropping the plate either back corner about 2" - 2 1/2" in from the back and side will get you in far enough to clear the rear casting. I recomend it being even after draining the main transmission reservoir that rear end holds about 2 - 2 1/2 gallons of oil which makes a huge mess even if you try to just crack the plate seal a little to drain it.
Edited by Tcmtech - 31 Aug 2016 at 10:59pm |
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Tcmtech
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Joined: 15 Apr 2015 Location: Minot ND Points: 310 |
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Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 5:01pm |
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Turns out the pin that kept the crown nut from turning somehow broke one end off allowing it to come out. I guess i shouldn't have tried to reuse it.
![]() It's getting the shaft hole drilled out to fit the largest roll pin that will fit in the crown nut slots this time. Being able to drain the transmission and PTO section and let them drip overnight sure makes working on it a whole lot faster and enjoyable. It took maybe 10 minutes to get the whole PTO assy out of the tractor this morning and I didn't have more than tablespoon of stray fluid to deal with the whole time. BTW the innermost bearing is press fit on the main 1000 RPM shaft which makes the disassembly and reassembly a fighting pain so machining or grinding that sucker down so that its nice minimal clearance sliding fit between the two makes taking things apart and putting them back together without tearing up the two shaft seals so much easier and faster to do.
![]() Edited by Tcmtech - 01 Sep 2016 at 5:10pm |
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