I pulled the dual speed PTO out of Dads 8030 loader tractor that never does PTO work to put it in his 7050 which is now the primary PTO work machine.  

It took me a few hours to do the swap but I had to do take it apart three times over two days because I screwed up the shaft seal between the 1000 and 540 shafts putting it back together twice. That's the only real hard part.  That double shaft set is heavy and sort of awkward to hold while putting everything back in without chewing up the seal lips. 

Basically take your drawbar off and drain your rear end and transmission then drop the big rectangular plate at the back bottom.   That will get you into your PTO gears and clutch.

Then unbolt the cover that's over the clutch and pull it all out the back.  

On the dual speed PTO shaft set there is a large crown nut with a cotter pin and a half moon snap ring that hold the gears and bearings together.    The crown nuts not so hard to deal with but the half moon snap ring is a bit of pain to knock out and put back in.

That's about all I can recall that is of any important detail in the job.   The rest is just brute force strength and swearing.  

Oh yea and I recomend drilling and tapping that bottom plate to add a drain plug back there that way if you have to ever go back in you don't have to deal with dropping that plate again with a gallon or more of fluid trapped above it a second time. 

Guessing I either didn't get the center 1000 RPM shaft fully seated into the inner bearing (unlikely)  or the crown nut that holds the shafts secure in the bearings somehow worked its lock pin out and spun loose  (more likely) or I have an outer bearing that went out.  (hope not) 

It's the only three things I can think of that would let the shafts get loose like that. 

EIther way, that drain plug sure saves a guy from a mess if you have to go back in and redo something! 

BTW if you want to just drill a hole and drain it before dropping the plate either back corner about 2" - 2 1/2" in from the back and side will get you in far enough to clear the rear casting.   

I recomend it being even after draining the main transmission reservoir that rear end holds about 2 - 2 1/2 gallons of oil which makes a huge mess even if you try  to just crack the plate seal a little to drain it.  

It's getting the shaft hole drilled out to fit the largest roll pin that will fit in the crown nut slots this time.    

BTW the innermost bearing is press fit on the main 1000 RPM shaft  which makes the disassembly and reassembly a fighting pain so machining or grinding that sucker down so that its nice minimal clearance sliding fit between the two makes taking things apart and putting them back together without tearing up the two shaft seals so much easier and faster to do.