7010 hi/low range shift problem

I have a 16 speed power director 7010.  I started putting some equipment away in the barn for winter.  Was shifting out of low into park and got half way out of low and the lever got stuck.  Can't move it forward or backward.  Tractor won't move either so it is not in gear. 

I have had a little trouble shifting into park lately so this problem may have been waiting to happen.   I don't know much about this setup but my guess is that it could be the park cable is stuck or it could be the hi/lo cable is stuck.  Worse case scenario is the shift fork in the transmission?  I think I need to disconnect the park cable and see if that allows movement.  If it doesn't then disconnect the hi/low cable and see if it moves. 

Most importantly, looking for steps to debug the problem.  Any help is appreciated!

Here is a picture of the shift cable area.  I used red for the hi/low cable that looks a little bent to me, and I think the blue is park cable? 

Last, the dang tractor is half in the barn.  Can I pull it out about 10 feet so that I can shut the door?

You don't have two buttons on the floor, for shifting between the high and low?

Happy to report that I have resolved this issue with the help of the forum.  It ended up being a sticking hi/low main cable.  My steps were:

I removed the cab flooring, then the metal plate, and then the screw that tied the cable end to the final shift link.  After shifting it, it was still stuck, but I noticed it moved a little.  That convinced me this was not shift fork issue but rather a cable problem.  I put some wd-40 on the end under the cab, then moved it back and forth and it broke loose.  It looked like it was in a bit of a bind but has to be corrosion in the cable.  I reconnected and was able to place into high, low and park.  Tractor moved as expected.  I still think it shifts hard so would like to replace the cable and be done with it since I have it all apart.  Worried it might stick in the dead of winter when I really need it. 

Just how do you go about replacing the hi/lo shift cable?  Obviously it comes off at both ends but wonder about threading it in and out of the cab?  Any tricks to that?

Thanks to Dr Allis and everyone that jumped in!

BunkerHill is at around $95 versus $200.  I think I will try the bunker hill since SteveM has recommended them and your comments about others.  Thanks for the info.

I forgot to mention that I found two bird nests under my floor board when I took off the metal plate.  I also found a 3rd nest early this year when I fixed the clutch starter switch button.  Is there any way to stop these birds from nesting under there?  Can I put some hardware cloth around the area?  Wonder how many others have birds nest and don't know it like me?  I can't make my barn bird proof either.  I don't drive it much until hay season begins which is usually June 1 in Indiana.  I am guessing they start in April and build these nests.  I wonder if moth balls repel them like mice?

My current thought is to at least wrap some hardware cloth around the area below the cab around March and then remove come hay baling time.  You can bend the hardware cloth around things and it will stay.  Might even be able to drive it around with the hardware cloth because it will allow air flow too.  If you stuff a tarp in there, then the mice will think you have built them a hotel.  I will try it this spring and see if it works.  It is a fire hazzard with that much hay nesting material stuffed in there.  Bought me a new floor mat from Fehr to replace the indoor/outdoor carpet that exists now.  It is holding moisture and causing the plate to rust.  Going to paint that metal plate to inhibit more rust.  Then I will buy the rest of the cab kit once I get all of this done.

One fix leads to another and another and another ...

I looked at that u clamp and I don't know if I should loosen from the back of the tractor or try to loosen from within the cab.  Both paths look pretty hard to get to and limited space for a wrench or socket.

Mack, I am not following the half moon cuts?   I think you are saying cut a slot on the anchor bracket so you can leave the bolts in place and then slide the anchor plate on after everything is in place then tighten down.  I guess that prevents you from having to hit the hole with the bolt on the far side of the valve stack.  It does look like a pain.  That anchor plate sure is big considering what it is holding.  I will find out this weekend. 

Still looking for guidance on the Shift cable since I have a game plan on the hi/lo cable now.  Is it an equal pain in the butt?