7000 hydraulic issue

You should probably check it again when the oil is warm to get that reading. Is it full of oil? The relief valve might need adjusting.

Replace rear cab mounts. They settle down to where linkage don't move valve all the way.      MACK

If the cab mounts are the issue, with the engine shut off, pull each remote lever to the "raise" position. Those two levers should lock into the raise detent. If they don't lock, the cab mounts could be the problem. If they do lock into the raise detents, I'd rebuild or replace the hyd valve stack main relief valve.  There are two bolts that hold the console to the cab wall. If detents don't lock, you can loosen those bolts and reposition the console up (or down) until they do lock into detent as a temporary fix.

Never adjust a relief valve without returning it back to where it was set at. If it is the problem, there will be blown seals inside of it. If you leave it cranked up, you risk exploding the hydraulic pump the first time you use it.

Where did you remove this relief valve cartridge from??    There are two of them. One is the MAIN relief and the other is for the Traction Booster circuit.

Top side of the valve (where the spools stick out of) and towards the center of the tractor.  You could take the T.Boost cartridge and try it. It is located on the bottom outside.

As a test. It is set at 2,000 psi versus 2,200 for the main relief.

I lost all hydraulics on my 7000 this Spring. I took the pump off and found the seal had come out.

The sealing around the shaft was good, NAPA didn't have a new one in stock, so I used a little Loctite retaining compound and reinstalled it.

Every part of the system now works better, stronger, and faster. I'm thinking maybe it had been partially out since I owned the tractor. Hopefully you find something as simple.

Edited by Play Farmer - 22 Aug 2018 at 5:45am

I'm no hydraulic pump expert but behind one of the main wear plates the aluminum housing next to the bearing is cracked out and the seal is blown out. Could this be part of the problem? Lol

That is your problem.

It appears to be cast aluminum, trying to find somebody who could TIG weld it up, then I'll massage it back to shape with a die grinder.

Called my agco dealer and he tells me the seal and the backer are only available as a kit and run 113 bucks... yikes

Aftermarket kits For Complete Pump Are Available. We Repair The Housing With Steel Bushing. We Bore Out Housing Install Sleeve Machine To Fix Bearing .Will Never Blow Out

Alvin M wrote: Aftermarket kits For Complete Pump Are Available. We Repair The Housing With Steel Bushing. We Bore Out Housing Install Sleeve Machine To Fix Bearing .Will Never Blow Out

Where are the aftermarket kits available? How much do you charge to bore it out and install a steel sleeve?

Unfortunately I think I caused this problem. I put all new bearings, seals, and wear plates in the pump a few years back. I`m assuming I chipped the aluminum when removing or installing the new bearing.

Ok thanks. I have a local guy that thinks he can tig weld it up no problem and machine the bore and seal groove back out.

Could you pm me a price on a seal kit and how to order? Thanks Ryan

Had a local guy tig weld up the pump section. Then I dressed it up with a die grinder and pressed in a new bearing. New preload and load seal and it's back in business. Lifts the baler and discbine without trouble. Adjusted the relief back to factory spec so all should be good.