7000 hydraulic issue
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=153208
Printed Date: 27 Aug 2025 at 5:11pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 7000 hydraulic issue
Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Subject: 7000 hydraulic issue
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 7:50pm
I've had a maroon belly 7000 for a few years now and it's been trouble free. But this year it is having trouble raising the tailgate on the round baler or lifting the discbine. Steering and PS seem to be fine. Cold it will lift ok but warm it struggles.
Threw a gauge in a remote coupler this evening and got less than 2000psi cold at PTO speed.
My guess is the pump is just tired and in need of replacement. Anything I should check before that drastic step?
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Replies:
Posted By: farmboy520
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 8:38pm
You should probably check it again when the oil is warm to get that reading. Is it full of oil? The relief valve might need adjusting.
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 8:53pm
Oil is full. When I have something to use it for I will check the pressure when warm.
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2018 at 10:23pm
Replace rear cab mounts. They settle down to where linkage don't move valve all the way. MACK
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2018 at 7:03am
Thanks I will check that for sure. Replaced the fronts a few years back but never the rears.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2018 at 7:16am
If the cab mounts are the issue, with the engine shut off, pull each remote lever to the "raise" position. Those two levers should lock into the raise detent. If they don't lock, the cab mounts could be the problem. If they do lock into the raise detents, I'd rebuild or replace the hyd valve stack main relief valve. There are two bolts that hold the console to the cab wall. If detents don't lock, you can loosen those bolts and reposition the console up (or down) until they do lock into detent as a temporary fix.
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2018 at 9:44am
Valves do lock into detent. I just adjusted the relief valve about all the way in and my pressure didn't really change. I will remove it and see what's up. Thanks for the help.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2018 at 10:10am
Never adjust a relief valve without returning it back to where it was set at. If it is the problem, there will be blown seals inside of it. If you leave it cranked up, you risk exploding the hydraulic pump the first time you use it.
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2018 at 11:42am
I put the relief back where it was originally set. Tore the relief valve out and all the o-rings look really good. No nicks or cuts, and aren't hardened up. After lunch I will dig thru my o-ring kits and see if I have the right size to replace them all for reassembly.
Anything else to check?
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2018 at 11:46am
Where did you remove this relief valve cartridge from?? There are two of them. One is the MAIN relief and the other is for the Traction Booster circuit.
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2018 at 12:00pm
I removed the one closest to the center of the tractor. It is a real pain to remove.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2018 at 12:04pm
Top side of the valve (where the spools stick out of) and towards the center of the tractor. You could take the T.Boost cartridge and try it. It is located on the bottom outside.
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2018 at 12:24pm
You mean swap the traction boost relief into the main?
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2018 at 12:26pm
As a test. It is set at 2,000 psi versus 2,200 for the main relief.
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2018 at 7:13pm
Reassembled both relief valves with new o-rings with no change, switched reliefs and still no change.
Thinking it must be the pump??
As soon as I know I won't be needing it I will take the pump off and dissemble to see how scoured the wear plates and housing is.
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Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2018 at 5:44am
I lost all hydraulics on my 7000 this Spring. I took the pump off and found the seal had come out.
The sealing around the shaft was good, NAPA didn't have a new one in stock, so I used a little Loctite retaining compound and reinstalled it.
Every part of the system now works better, stronger, and faster. I'm thinking maybe it had been partially out since I owned the tractor. Hopefully you find something as simple.
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2018 at 10:11am
Pump got a new front seal a few years back as well as a new suction line.
But maybe I'll get lucky.
Tractor has close to 10k hours and the pump is most likely original.
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 29 Aug 2018 at 5:41pm
I'm no hydraulic pump expert but behind one of the main wear plates the aluminum housing next to the bearing is cracked out and the seal is blown out. Could this be part of the problem? Lol

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Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 29 Aug 2018 at 6:00pm
That's not going to work that way...
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2018 at 7:09am
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2018 at 8:14am
and with that chunk missing you wont hold a backup seal if replaced. JB might fix that with a little effort. Do you feel lucky?
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2018 at 8:45am
It appears to be cast aluminum, trying to find somebody who could TIG weld it up, then I'll massage it back to shape with a die grinder.
Called my agco dealer and he tells me the seal and the backer are only available as a kit and run 113 bucks... yikes
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Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2018 at 9:09am
is there a chunk missing where the blue oring blew or is it just a mark where someone peened the housing to hold the bearing?
------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Posted By: Alvin M
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2018 at 9:48am
Aftermarket kits For Complete Pump Are Available. We Repair The Housing With Steel Bushing. We Bore Out Housing Install Sleeve Machine To Fix Bearing .Will Never Blow Out
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2018 at 9:49am
There is a piece of the housing missing right where the blue seal blew out.
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2018 at 9:52am
Alvin M wrote:
Aftermarket kits For Complete Pump Are Available. We Repair The Housing With Steel Bushing. We Bore Out Housing Install Sleeve Machine To Fix Bearing .Will Never Blow Out |
Where are the aftermarket kits available? How much do you charge to bore it out and install a steel sleeve?
Unfortunately I think I caused this problem. I put all new bearings, seals, and wear plates in the pump a few years back. I`m assuming I chipped the aluminum when removing or installing the new bearing.
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Posted By: Alvin M
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2018 at 10:55am
WE Have Kits In Stock Or just The Parts You Need . Last One We Did Was 375.00 For Both Both Bearings. We Have A Machine Shop Do Them For Us .We Have Used Parts For The Pump. Will Check To See If We Can Exchange The Housing Or If We don,t need Core Will Let You Know Later
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2018 at 3:18pm
Ok thanks. I have a local guy that thinks he can tig weld it up no problem and machine the bore and seal groove back out.
Could you pm me a price on a seal kit and how to order? Thanks Ryan
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Posted By: Alvin M
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2018 at 3:19pm
We Have Used Part I Sent PM To You
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2018 at 3:02pm
Had a local guy tig weld up the pump section. Then I dressed it up with a die grinder and pressed in a new bearing. New preload and load seal and it's back in business. Lifts the baler and discbine without trouble. Adjusted the relief back to factory spec so all should be good.
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Posted By: chevytaHOE5674
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2018 at 3:09pm
Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2018 at 3:31pm
The finished repair picture really adds to this topic.
------------- 1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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