3 Shank Subsoiler with Allis 7000

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   This past winter, I went through and freed up all the position control and draft control linkages on my 7000 and checked the spool and everything seemed fine and was put in measurements as per the service manual (or at least I thought I did).  I borrowed a friend's 3 shank (parabolic rippers) subsoiler to do a 10 acre field I am starting to have some drainage problems (tested it with a metal prod and about 9 inches down is easy, then it just stops going, so pretty sure I have a nice hard pan).  
Should I be pulling the front of the tractor up (no front weights and fluid in the rear tires not dualled up, just single 18.4 34 Firestone SAT bias tires) before I run out of traction if the draft control is setup correctly?  Also, I am not used to Allis' system, mainly used to Fords where you have a position control and then another lever that changes from draft-position-load monitor control with positions in between to change the amount of draft control you get.  What is the proper way to put the levers on the 7000?  Also, should I be dropping a shank off for a 7000?  It is pretty hard ground and really shattering up ground as it goes, but I was running out of traction before power in 2nd gear (going around 4 mph, maybe a little over).  I guess it boils down to: I need some help getting my draft control setup to see if I can pull 3 shanks or need to drop one... 

Hurst

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Hurst Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Midway, Ky Points: 1215	Post Options Post Reply Quote Hurst Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 3 Shank Subsoiler with Allis 7000 Posted: 24 Jul 2016 at 6:33pm
	This past winter, I went through and freed up all the position control and draft control linkages on my 7000 and checked the spool and everything seemed fine and was put in measurements as per the service manual (or at least I thought I did). I borrowed a friend's 3 shank (parabolic rippers) subsoiler to do a 10 acre field I am starting to have some drainage problems (tested it with a metal prod and about 9 inches down is easy, then it just stops going, so pretty sure I have a nice hard pan). Should I be pulling the front of the tractor up (no front weights and fluid in the rear tires not dualled up, just single 18.4 34 Firestone SAT bias tires) before I run out of traction if the draft control is setup correctly? Also, I am not used to Allis' system, mainly used to Fords where you have a position control and then another lever that changes from draft-position-load monitor control with positions in between to change the amount of draft control you get. What is the proper way to put the levers on the 7000? Also, should I be dropping a shank off for a 7000? It is pretty hard ground and really shattering up ground as it goes, but I was running out of traction before power in 2nd gear (going around 4 mph, maybe a little over). I guess it boils down to: I need some help getting my draft control setup to see if I can pull 3 shanks or need to drop one... Hurst
	1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours

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VAfarmboy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 06 Dec 2013 Location: Virginia Points: 470	Post Options Post Reply Quote VAfarmboy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Jul 2016 at 4:31am
	I am not familiar with the draft control on a 7000 but IMO you need more weight on that tractor. Put some fluid in the tires or get some wheel weights, and hang some weights on the front to keep the front wheels on the ground. Unless you are in some really heavy clay a 7000 should handle a three shank with no problem. We used to pull a three shank parabolic ripper with a Deere 3020 back in the 70s when it was our big tractor and a 7000 is a lot more tractor than a 3020. That 3020 had fluid in the rear tires, duals, and front weights on it though. Edited by VAfarmboy - 27 Jul 2016 at 4:45am

Play Farmer Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Jan 2016 Location: NNY Points: 732	Post Options Post Reply Quote Play Farmer Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Jul 2016 at 6:25am
	IMO you need more weight, front and rear. Here is one option for the front; http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=122161

shameless (ne) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 08 Jul 2016 Location: nebraska Points: 7463	Post Options Post Reply Quote shameless (ne) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Jul 2016 at 8:07am
	move your draft control lever inside the cab, make sure it's moving, and the cable isn't stuck. you should be able to bury that ripper to the frame. if your tires are wore off, that's most of the problem of traction. my 7010 pulls a 5 shank clear down 2 ft in heavy clay, no loaded tires, and have 3 weights on the front. my rear tires are real good yet. I have a 9 shank ripper, but that one had to go on the 7080! this farm had never been ripped in it's life when I did this! and as said above, load with weights on the rear if your tires are wore.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21493	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Jul 2016 at 9:08am
	Proper Traction Booster linkage adjustment should lift the upper arms to a level position when the TBoost lever is fully forward (I think forward)with engine RPM's at 2,000. When in the field, leave the position control lever for full depth and then use the Traction Booster lever to raise your implement to the desired working depth for the implement you are pulling. From that setting the hitch will work up when weight transfer is needed and then back down to the depth you chose when the load gets easier. Lack of front weights negates the effect of the Traction Booster system. You can't have the front wheels raising off the ground while the hitch is trying to raise....just won't work like that. There also needs to be adequate rear wheel weight (and tire tread and tire air pressure) to get the job done and the Traction Booster just adds to that. The Traction Booster can't do it all. Proper adjustment of the Traction Booster linkage and operation of it is in the Owners Manual.

rw Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 28 Oct 2009 Location: United States Points: 384	Post Options Post Reply Quote rw Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Jul 2016 at 5:31pm
	I think you will want to be hitched so that at working depth the lower links are close parallel with the ground when working. This helps it pull straight back from the front hitch points on the lower links. If links are too high at the implement that helps lift the front end. (Line of draft) You hopefully have a couple or more choices on the ripper. This can help to keep the front end on the ground and the tool going in the ground to certain depth too. At least it makes a fair amount of difference on my mounted chisel plow. I agree with those that say more weight on front too. 7000 is one of my favorites but just from looks, appears about half as heavy in front compared to 7030 or bigger. Good news is you have enough power and traction in your set up now.