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steve(ill) 
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 Posted: 17 Sep 2015 at 8:00am |
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I think he said the head and oil pan are aleady removed, and two pistons stuck.... makes me wonder WHY they were removed.. Don't think I would put it back together at this point. Also, the liners may have shifted and the o-ring seals cut or scuffed... time to pull it apart and inspect.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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mrtractor
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Location: St. Paul, MN
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Posted: 17 Sep 2015 at 8:18am |
I think they were all stuck and he removed 2, it looks in pretty good shape but he said he left it outside and some rain must've gotten in there an it seized up. He said he removed the 2 and honed the sleeves and couldn't get the other two. So at least it's all apart and take some good internal pics.
Thanks for the advice guys, I will update with pictures this weekend.
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Ken in Texas
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Posted: 17 Sep 2015 at 10:12am |
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If it was me, I wouldn't think of overhauling the engine while it's in the tractor. But I'm 75 if that makes any difference. Ask DickL. Dick will not lead you astray when it comes to rebuilding ACs. Especialy the engine.
Just hope the guy who pulled it apart marked the rods and caps so it goes back the way it was, in order
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 17 Sep 2015 at 11:18am |
Pull the motor and put it in an engine stand. That way you can stand up straight and have the motor upside down to do the rod and caps easy.. Easy to fit the crank, check the oil pump, remove cam and inspect, etc..
Wash the water jacket out and get the 75 years of river mud and goo out of the passages.... When you were in the corn field in 1955 and the motor got hot, where do you think the guy got the water to put in the radiator ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 17 Sep 2015 at 2:29pm |
 steve(ill) wrote:
correct, but yours has a distributor, not a magneto......... so its probably very late 1948- 49 -50. |
My 51 CA supposedly came with a magneto and has the slot that drives the mag. I didn't think any C's came with a distributor from the factory.
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mrtractor
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Posted: 17 Sep 2015 at 7:37pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
where do you think the guy got the water to put in the radiator ?
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That is amazing to think about, I never would have imagined, it's so foreign to me.
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Bill Long
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Posted: 17 Sep 2015 at 8:09pm |
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First let me welcome you to the Unofficial Allis Chalmers Forum. As you have seen above there is an almost bottomless wealth of information here. I was going to add something but Gentlemen you have covered just about everything.
Let us know how the rebuilding goes.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 17 Sep 2015 at 9:41pm |
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MR, if you find any fish bones or shells mixed in with the "mud" when you clean the block, you will know for sure !
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 17 Sep 2015 at 9:43pm |
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Tucker, you could be right about the distributor on the C... I was thinking the last year or two had them, but old age blurs the facts..... When the CA got it, the B eventually use the distributor... could have been after 1950... I thought all CA had the distrib, guess not !
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 18 Sep 2015 at 6:34am |
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For $700 bucks with a mower, I think ya did darn good! Like Steve mentioned, I'd take the engine right to an engine stand also and do r' right. When I first bought my B 15 years ago, I rebuilt the engine while it was still in place. A real PIA making sure the bottom end was right and all the dots dotted and t's crossed. Won't do that again. I guess I did alright at the time, cause' its still runs like a dream with no leaks 15 years later. And, the ole' girl does a lot of work around the property especially with the loader on it. If you have the money, I would have it align bored and eliminate the shims. Its a nice upgrade for the bottom end. Its a given to have the cylinder head done also. That's like buying new shoes and using the old laces if you just slam the head back on without having a machine shop go through it. It you don't have the extra dough right now, save up and do it correctly. You'll never regret doing it right the first time...
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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corbinstein
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Posted: 18 Sep 2015 at 6:40am |
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Yep, didn't realize the head was off. DUH...
Go ahead pull it an put it on the engine stand.
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Dick L
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Posted: 18 Sep 2015 at 11:09am |
I would like to add before placing it on an engine stand turn it upside down and pound out the other two sleeves with the pistons in. If the pistons are still in the other two drop all four in a bucket of thin oil and forget them until you need the rods. When your ready and have the new stuff in sight it will be easier to put the force needed to the sledge to poke the pistons out of the old sleeves.  
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mrtractor
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Posted: 18 Sep 2015 at 5:22pm |
You guys are an amazing resource, I can't wait to work on this. I'm going to pound out those sleeves tomorrow and take a bunch of pics.
I stopped by Harbor Freight to pick up a engine stand (the ones online I wanted were like a grand), they didn't have what I wanted in stock which is probably a good thing since I'm not sure if a standard engine stand will work with a tractor.
Will a 1500 lb or 2000 lb work for this? Should I be looking elsewhere than Harbor Freight? I checked on Craigslist but didn't see anything.
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Dick L
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Posted: 18 Sep 2015 at 5:37pm |
Sure the engine stands will work. If you bought one with a single center front caster be careful as they will tip over easy. 
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 18 Sep 2015 at 7:59pm |
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mrtractor....... a $49. engine stand will work for the B... it only weighs maybe 300 pounds. In Dicks photo above you see a hoist also. That can be used to pull the motor and roll forward away from the tractor.......... I park under a beam in the garage and use a chain fall...... Dick uses the hoist...... again, the light duty stuff at HF is fine for this small tractor.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 18 Sep 2015 at 8:02pm |
well, the price went up a couple bucks in the last 20 years !
I used this for a 302 FORD about 10 years ago also.
Edited by steve(ill) - 18 Sep 2015 at 8:03pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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MrHDC
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Posted: 18 Sep 2015 at 10:13pm |
Yep, that's the one I use. Worked great on my CA motor. It does turn a little hard when rotating the engine. A little grease might fix that. Hervey 
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 19 Sep 2015 at 12:24pm |
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Welcome to the Forum Mr.T. I have a CA that I overhauled almost 20 years ago. Something to think about when you get yours back up and running. Do you want to not ever have to take it apart again because let's say for example it's using oil or low oil pressure? If the answer is yes, don't cut any corners. I would replace the sleeves and pistons, regrind the crank, new bearings, hot tank the block and head to get all of the crud out.
That said, pretty good chance you could simply pull it apart, put new rings and have a good running engine. I can say I don't regret one bit going back with all new parts on mine this many years later.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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mrtractor
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Posted: 19 Sep 2015 at 8:35pm |
It looks like it's a C, the serial number is C9291 which from tractordata says it's a 1941 (unless I'm reading it wrong). Easy-off oven cleaner took the paint really well, and quickly!
We split the tractor and removed all the outer stuff from the block, I'll take more pictures of the block and internals tomorrow.
I think we have to remove the crankshaft/camshaft in order to pop the sleeves out, we tried it with a 2x4 and a mini-sledge but it just chewed up the 2x4 since it was off center because of the crankshaft.
I picked up a nice 2000 lb engine stand from harbor freight, I figure buy once, cry once, just in case I work on something bigger in the future. I'm only 34 so I have a few years left in me to get into some stuff.
So the block only has the internals and gears left on it, it's sitting on some 2x4's on the engine stand, I may take the crank/cam out tomorrow or wait until next weekend. We'll see how I feel, I pulled something in my arm and it hurts a bit. All in all a good day!
Have a great night, gents!
Edited by mrtractor - 20 Sep 2015 at 5:04pm
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mrtractor
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Posted: 19 Sep 2015 at 9:24pm |
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Also, if any of you have any info on this tractor year-wise, let me know. I'm interested in learning all about it that I can.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 19 Sep 2015 at 9:34pm |
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mrtractor, you can down load photos to some place like imgur or photoshop and then link, or you can put the photos on your computer and then download right to this site. Your camera might take big photos like 1900 x 1600.... open that in paintbrush and resize to about 800 x 600 then save as a JPG.... when you post on this site, use the "post reply" button below the last post. Click on the green tree icon and then you can download from your computer to this site. Keep the photo name simple.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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MotorCityBear
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Posted: 19 Sep 2015 at 9:44pm |
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Please keep this thread updated. I have a 1953 B that runs but is in need of restoration. This is my first tractor and I am not a Farm guy, but look forward to playing with my B on some property in north GA I recently bought. I am hoping for guidance from the experts here when I start on my project.
Good luck with the rebuild.
Rob
Atlanta, GA
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Rob
1953 AC B
Kubota L3901
Blairsville, GA
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Dick L
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Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 7:30am |
steve(ill) wrote:
mrtractor, you can down load photos to some place like imgur or photoshop and then link, or you can put the photos on your computer and then download right to this site. Your camera might take big photos like 1900 x 1600.... open that in paintbrush and resize to about 800 x 600 then save as a JPG.... when you post on this site, use the "post reply" button below the last post. Click on the green tree icon and then you can download from your computer to this site. Keep the photo name simple. |
With Windows 8 after you load pictures from your camera to your computer you can double click on a picture in the folder the right click and choose resize at the top. Click on the pixels. Change to any pixel between 500 and 800 on the top line to keep from flooding the page. You can click on the square with the tree and arrow one time directly from your resized thumb nail picture in the folder that has been resized to post. I use fotki and always chose the one without the arrow because I can never remember if I have shared it before. 
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mrtractor
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Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 5:01pm |
Today I tore the engine down and removed the crankshaft so that I could pound out the sleeves. I tried with a 2x4 and it just chewed up the wood, I tried with an oak log as well and it fared a bit better but wouldn't budge with my mini-sledge. I didn't have time to take more pictures of the internals but I will next weekend for sure.
Should I put some acetone/ATF in the bottom of the block so that it can hopefully seep down the sleeve and loosen it up? I'm not sure what else to do. I though about buying a sleeve puller but that wouldn't work because only 1 of the sleeves doesn't have a piston in it. Any other ideas? Should I just be using a pine 2x4 or something else?
It all went fairly well so far, there were only two parts that gave me a bit of trouble:
1. The steering arm/drag link (or whatever it's called, the long bar on the side with the ball joints on them), I couldn't find the name of it or anything in my 2 manuals that said what it was or how to take it apart. When I took off one of the nuts I couldn't figure how it was supposed to come off, I hammered on it a few times and it wouldn't budge, I thought maybe I had to pop the ball joint apart. We ended up putting a propane torch on the part the threaded end goes into and heated it up, then I whacked it (the threaded end) about 10 times really hard and it didn't move, I was getting frustrated and I was thinking that it may not come off that way so I was just messing around and just tapped lightly on it 3 times, not even hard enough to hurt your knuckles if you did it to your hand and it popped right out in front of our eyes! My dad and I looked at each other and started laughing so hard, we couldn't believe that happened.
2. The crankshaft pulley - I took the nut off the set screw and didn't see that it had a flat-head slot in it to unscrew it so it took me a little bit to figure that out, then I read online that there was another set screw behind it so I was digging in there trying to get it (it apparently doesn't have a second one), there is a key back inside there that I thought was the second one.. I was wondering why I couldn't get my screwdriver to bite. I also read online that you should use a puller and a bearing splitter to get the pulley off because they break easily.. out came the propane torch again, a crowbar, and the mini sledge. After it got nice and toasty I put the crowbar on the back inside lip and hammered it a few times, then moved to the other side and did the same thing, eventually it started to move and I kept at it until it popped off. I didn't break it!
Also, I was able to adjust the images so I'll post them here:
Edited by mrtractor - 20 Sep 2015 at 5:10pm
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Dick L
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Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 5:23pm |
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Good job with the pictures as well with the disassembly. Take a look at my picture of the engine on blocks. I don't think you will find any wood. I use a steel bar. I found after chewing a few blocks of wood that it is only a little better than a block of hard rubber in absorbing the shock needed to break the sleeve loose. I have never damaged a sleeve using a steel bar on wet sleeves on any tractor brand. Just stay on sleeve edge and work back and fourth in the sleeve if needed. If they come out easy with a block of wood they are not stuck in the block.
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Chalmersbob
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Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 9:13pm |
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You may be able to pop out the pistons with a block of wood. That would make pulling the sleeves easier. I have use 2 3/8" threaded rods and a hydraulic jack to remove stubborn sleeves. But generally you can do as Dick said. You don't need to remove the cam to pull the sleeves. In fact I have yet to find a cam with loose bearing and generally don't remove them. Sounds like you are on the right track. Keep us posted LOL Bob
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4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S,
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mrtractor
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Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 9:23pm |
That's great to hear Dick, that'll make it a lot easier using a piece of steel.
Bob, I'll surely keep this updated.
The connecting rod caps were already off (only 1 piston removed though, so at least I know where each rod goes, I'll mark them before removal), I'll have to figure out which cap goes where. I read that you can use a magnifying glass and look for machine marks/striations to match them up.
So I'm going to be taking this all apart and cleaning/degreasing/inspecting all the parts, my question is, how do I know what to grease/lube/oil/etc when putting it back together? Will it tell me in the owners manual (I don't currently have that or the parts book)? The parts that I've looked at in the service manuals don't seem to hit too much on the subject.
Thanks again for all the help guys, it's really nice to have your wisdom while I'm learning-by-doing this stuff.
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Dick L
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Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 9:58pm |
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A good rule of thumb is to lube everything that rotates or moves up and down. That includes head bolts.
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JohnCO
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Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 11:39pm |
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I noticed that no one mentioned that some of the advertisers on this site sell engine kits and parts. They support this site and have good prices.
Oh and welcome to the forum. Looks like you got a great deal.
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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Ken in Texas
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Posted: 21 Sep 2015 at 6:01am |
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What you have there is what is commonly called a "SHORT ARM C".Short steering arms were used on Cs prior to C-18163.
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