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calico190xt68 
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Joined: 12 Jan 2017
Location: Frankton, IN
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 Topic: 190XT Tie Rod Removal Problem
Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 8:26am |
Tie tie rod broke over weekend and I am having trouble removing the stud from the the cast iron piece. I have hit it with a small sledge but it isn't moving. Soaked it with wd45 over night too. Seems like the rubber protector is embedded into the hole but not sure? I don't want to break the cast iron piece hammering on it.
I am also having trouble removing the male part from the female part. It won't budge either. I am kind of wondering if I shouldn't just replace the female part though while I am replacing the male. It is probably worn out too.
Just asking if there are any tricks anyone knows about to make this happen? My thought was to heat it up and that might burn the rubber boot that surrounds the stud?
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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ac fleet
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Joined: 12 Jan 2014
Location: Arrowsmith, ILL
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Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 8:35am |
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Heat will help, don't think a fork will get under the remains to wedge it out of the hole, but might try it. ---Might try a puller and press from the bottom side to force it to loosen in the taper hole. If all else fails, I always went for the heat as last resort.
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Lonn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Назарово,Russia
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Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 10:00am |
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See if a fork can get under it or someway to put upward pressure on it..... a bottle jack?..... and then give the end of the cast iron a good rap with a heavy hammer. Should pop right out.
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Rick
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Jonesburg,Mo.
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Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 10:22am |
I always just take the nut off the tie rod and jack the tractor up...it'll pop loose sooner or later with that much weight on it. Never have broken a steering arm yet either. Those things are some hard stuff! Rick
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allisrutledge
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Joined: 30 Mar 2010
Location: SurgoinsvilleTN
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Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 11:29am |
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I hit it on the side of the arm towards the spindle. Hit it hard and it will come loose, did a 6060 and a 8010.
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Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 6:35pm |
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Remove nut,turn spindle so you can hit the tie rod end straight on with a BFH. Few good whacks will release taper. Otherwise you remove wheel and use BIG hammer on one side and whack it on the other with another big hammer.
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Joe(TX)
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Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 7:56pm |
PB blaster or Kroil will work better than WD40. I used a tie rod removal fork on mine. There is also a tie rod removal tool similar pitman arm remover.
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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calico190xt68
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Joined: 12 Jan 2017
Location: Frankton, IN
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Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 9:30pm |
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Well, I used the jack method and used a hylift Jack on the bottom of the bolt. Got the wheel off of the ground. It did not release though. I let the jack down after about 3 minutes. Removed the jack and hit it twice from the bottom with a small sledge hammer. It came right out. The stud was bent to one side so might have made it stick. I see no easy way to get the male side separated from the female side. I have decided to buy female side since I can feel some slop. I paid $80 from agco for male side. Noticed that all states ag is selling both sides for $42. Going to pay $19 for female side plus shipping. Is the agco version worth another $45 for female side? It is still an inexpensive fix compared to most. If the extra $40 is worth it then maybe I should go that way. As always, appreciated everyone offering up the advice. I was attracted to the jack because hitting things with a hammer has screwed me a free times.
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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allisrutledge
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Joined: 30 Mar 2010
Location: SurgoinsvilleTN
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Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 10:45pm |
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Big hammer is my best friend. I would think agco parts should be better but they probably came from the same production line as the cheaper ones.
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Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns
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Lonn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Назарово,Russia
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Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 7:02am |
 calico190xt68 wrote:
Well, I used the jack method and used a hylift Jack on the bottom of the bolt. Got the wheel off of the ground. It did not release though. I let the jack down after about 3 minutes. Removed the jack and hit it twice from the bottom with a small sledge hammer. It came right out. The stud was bent to one side so might have made it stick. I see no easy way to get the male side separated from the female side. I have decided to buy female side since I can feel some slop. I paid $80 from agco for male side. Noticed that all states ag is selling both sides for $42. Going to pay $19 for female side plus shipping. Is the agco version worth another $45 for female side? It is still an inexpensive fix compared to most. If the extra $40 is worth it then maybe I should go that way. As always, appreciated everyone offering up the advice. I was attracted to the jack because hitting things with a hammer has screwed me a free times. |
I've taken a few of these off and never broke anything using a hammer. Generally the tie rod has been together still and I have used a pry bar under the tie rod and a big hammer and usually one or two whacks does it. Pressure along with a couple of good whacks will do it. Pressure alone probably not.
When I worked at the Allis shop the foreman told me you can do more harm if your hammer is too small. I've kinda stuck to that thinking for most things needing a hammer.
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-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
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Alex09(WI)
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Joined: 15 Mar 2012
Location: CECIL WI
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Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 2:09pm |
calico190xt68 wrote:
Well, I used the jack method and used a hylift Jack on the bottom of the bolt. Got the wheel off of the ground. It did not release though. I let the jack down after about 3 minutes. Removed the jack and hit it twice from the bottom with a small sledge hammer. It came right out. The stud was bent to one side so might have made it stick. I see no easy way to get the male side separated from the female side. I have decided to buy female side since I can feel some slop. I paid $80 from agco for male side. Noticed that all states ag is selling both sides for $42. Going to pay $19 for female side plus shipping. Is the agco version worth another $45 for female side? It is still an inexpensive fix compared to most. If the extra $40 is worth it then maybe I should go that way. As always, appreciated everyone offering up the advice. I was attracted to the jack because hitting things with a hammer has screwed me a free times. |
I replaced a tie rod on a 200 allis this spring with the new setup from All States Ag PArts. I would NOT reccomend their tie rod! Where the male end slips into the female end, the tolerance is wayyyy to big! You will tighten down the clamp and the tie rod will slide out when you steer the tractor. I had to put a second clamp on it and grind the clamp gap bigger and it was still questionable. Get the AGCO one. If it is like the original size, that would be the way to go.
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A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
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Joe(TX)
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Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 4:14pm |
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I had to use the clamp off the old tie rod. The ones on the aftermarket ones are not heavy enough. Like was stated earlier, the aftermarket rods are too loose also.
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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bradley6874
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Joined: 05 Sep 2010
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Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 4:57pm |
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Spend the extra and get Agco also unless the other side has already been changed do it also as all the slack won’t take long to Kill the other one
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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DougG
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Location: Mo
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Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 7:36pm |
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Dang guys , crank down on the bolts and a spot weld will hold it
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200 10and20
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Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 7:45pm |
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Fix it with Agco parts and do it right Mickey Mouse parts and Mickey Mouse repairs will get you or someone else hurt or killed!!
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AC720Man
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Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 8:10pm |
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A ball joint wedge or removal tool depending on your description worked for me. I did find, that its less expensive from Agco to order the entire assembly than to order each side. I was going to replace both sides at the same time while I had it apart.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Tracy Martin TN
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Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 8:29pm |
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The easiest and safest method is this: Loosen the nut on the stud several turns. Jack some force against it,just steady pressure, Then hold a 3 lb hammer against the steering arm solid on one side, hit the other with a hammer. It will come right out. The nut keeps it from hitting you in the head. Never had this to fail, the hammer lick temporarily eggs the hole to break it loose. HTH Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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FREEDGUY
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Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Location: South West Mich
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Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 8:42pm |
Kinda glad some of the advice isn't in the OP manual 
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calico190xt68
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Posted: 21 Jul 2019 at 7:49am |
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I bought the agco version. Should arrive Tuesday. I will look at other side and see if I should replace. A really rough hay field created this problem. One thing I noticed was that the replacement has a grease fitting whereas the old one did not. The other side has a grease fitting. Thanks for all the advice.
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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