Tie tie rod broke over weekend and I am having trouble removing the stud from the the cast iron piece.  I have hit it with a small sledge but it isn't moving.  Soaked it with wd45 over night too.  Seems like the rubber protector is embedded into the hole but not sure?  I don't want to break the cast iron piece hammering on it. 

I am also having trouble removing the male part from the female part.  It won't budge either.  I am kind of wondering if I shouldn't just replace the female part though while I am replacing the male.  It is probably worn out too.

Just asking if there are any tricks anyone knows about to make this happen?  My thought was to heat it up and that might burn the rubber boot that surrounds the stud?

I used a tie rod removal fork on mine. There is also a tie rod removal tool similar pitman arm remover.

calico190xt68 wrote: Well, I used the jack method and used a hylift Jack on the bottom of the bolt. Got the wheel off of the ground. It did not release though. I let the jack down after about 3 minutes. Removed the jack and hit it twice from the bottom with a small sledge hammer. It came right out. The stud was bent to one side so might have made it stick. I see no easy way to get the male side separated from the female side. I have decided to buy female side since I can feel some slop. I paid $80 from agco for male side. Noticed that all states ag is selling both sides for $42. Going to pay $19 for female side plus shipping. Is the agco version worth another $45 for female side? It is still an inexpensive fix compared to most. If the extra $40 is worth it then maybe I should go that way. As always, appreciated everyone offering up the advice. I was attracted to the jack because hitting things with a hammer has screwed me a free times.

I've taken a few of these off and never broke anything using a hammer. Generally the tie rod has been together still and I have used a pry bar under the tie rod and a big hammer and usually one or two whacks does it. Pressure along with a couple of good whacks will do it. Pressure alone probably not.

When I worked at the Allis shop the foreman told me you can do more harm if your hammer is too small. I've kinda stuck to that thinking for most things needing a hammer.

calico190xt68 wrote: Well, I used the jack method and used a hylift Jack on the bottom of the bolt. Got the wheel off of the ground. It did not release though. I let the jack down after about 3 minutes. Removed the jack and hit it twice from the bottom with a small sledge hammer. It came right out. The stud was bent to one side so might have made it stick. I see no easy way to get the male side separated from the female side. I have decided to buy female side since I can feel some slop. I paid $80 from agco for male side. Noticed that all states ag is selling both sides for $42. Going to pay $19 for female side plus shipping. Is the agco version worth another $45 for female side? It is still an inexpensive fix compared to most. If the extra $40 is worth it then maybe I should go that way. As always, appreciated everyone offering up the advice. I was attracted to the jack because hitting things with a hammer has screwed me a free times.

I replaced a tie rod on a 200 allis this spring with the new setup from All States Ag PArts. I would NOT reccomend their tie rod! Where the male end slips into the female end, the tolerance is wayyyy to big! You will tighten down the clamp and the tie rod will slide out when you steer the tractor. I had to put a second clamp on it and grind the clamp gap bigger and it was still questionable. Get the AGCO one. If it is like the original size, that would be the way to go.