190xt Series III Power Director

The one gallon in the hydraulic resevior will cause the power director to slip. it should have much more than that. your missing fluid went from the hydraulic resevior into the tranny. when your tranny got over full it migrated to your right final drive. there are two seals on the power director shaft that allow fluid to leak into the tranny. you need to split the tractor to fix them. if you have a Hyd PTO its also possiable for it to pass fluid. its normal for the final drive to get overfull when the tranny overflows.

Years ago inside the rear end housing of our 190xt a bolt backed out of the axle shaft and pushed a plug into the housing and that let oil go into the final drive housing. We fixed it easy enough. I doubt it is the only tractor that this ever happened to.
The experienced mechanic at the dealer said it was not really a big deal if we left it out and ran the final over full with the wrong oil. I was not convinced that this was true so I made the repair in our shop.

When I bought my one ninety gasser, the power director slipped intermittently. The operators platform was broken up and sagging causing the power director linkage to not to engage the spool fully. Fixed that up, and it's been rock solid ever since, for about 10 years now. Darrel

Well, I managed to get er tore apart, and discovered the problem as soon as i split the torque tube from the tranny and saw burnt clutch material splattered all around the inside of the housing. Needless to say I pulled the clutch assembly apart and found two broken discs, as well as a couple burnt separators. When is comes to replacing the discs, keeping cost in mind, is it recommended to replace all of the discs and separators or can I just replace the discs and plates on the high side? 

Edited by farmboy98 - 15 Nov 2016 at 10:51am

Are there any other parts that should be replaced while the assembly is apart? Like sealing rings or anything?

Eek, that's what I was afraid it would cost. 

I guess I'll have to get making and selling a lot more firewood haha. While I have this thing apart, I want to take a look at the pto clutches as well. Before I brought it here, when I would engage the pto, which I should mention is hydraulic, it didnt engage smoothly like it always used to, it engages very abruptly. It doesn't slip at all, but its annoying having to use the foot clutch to engage the pto just to keep pins from shearing. Any idea what causes this? My best guess would be worn clutches.

I also have  190 split and am replacing the seal on the power director. I am not sure what you mean by the "lower pto shaft seals". Are you referring to the 2 orings on the connector tube between the housing and the pto unit?

Here is a link to the Tribco part

I guess this is probably a pretty technical question, but I really don't know how the power director actually works. I understand the whole hydraulic clutch concept part of it and whatnot, but as far as how you actually get two speeds out of it I am pretty lost, anybody able to explain?

Oh ok, that makes sense now! I was wondering what the other shafts were for in the torque housing. Thanks!

Ahh ok, why do they put less clutch discs on the high side vs. the low side? Is it just because of the higher amount of torque you can use in low range?

farmboy98 wrote: Ahh ok, why do they put less clutch discs on the high side vs. the low side? Is it just because of the higher amount of torque you can use in low range?

Edited by Orange Blood - 16 Nov 2016 at 1:56pm

yup, ALSO - anytime we find range plates broke we do the following check - Have someone depress the foot clutch enough that the two shafts driving the PD clutch can be turned - with some effort or drag on the foot clutch.  Slowly turn the shafts by hand and make sure the shafts turn freely and smoothly .  As Dr said the gears are reliable , but, we have seen in rare occasions a tooth break off or bearings loosen to cause a binding or rough spot - this hammering will break the old style or round off the teeth on the new style if a problem exist.  EZ to check for.   As to engagement, we always used the hand clutch lever to feather a start.  Old dealer just taught dad and customers to do this - we put over 4000 hours on a xt  before pd clutch had to be gone into - that was caused by a pump issue I feel, and it still had the old small center oem pressure plate in it.   Later 200's had a different valve to cushion shifts.. Too bad the design of the control didn't allow for easier engagement.

Edited by tbran - 02 Feb 2017 at 9:33am