190xt power director pressure

I think this sucks but. Replaced all torque housing gears, visual check of power director plates and clutches, replaced clutch hub, replaced clutch hub sealing rings. I have checked the power director linkage, everything is tight not bad bushings or anything. It is giving full stroke to actuating valve. I hooked up pressure gauge to the Allan head test ports. I am only getting 11 bars (159.5 lbs) of pressure. Drops to 2 bars (29 lbs) of pressure in neutral. If I leave the clutch out with transmission in gear I would stall the tractor out even with power director in neutral. I did rebuild the hydraulic pump, the three point and power steering work as it should. Pto works great, it is a hydraulic pto. I'm really hoping I don't have to split this tractor again. Anybody got ideas, I got my fingers crossed. And the hydraulic oil is to full mark. Thanks, John m

Edited by John m - 10 Apr 2022 at 1:08pm

Thanks, sure hope that's the problem. I was just sitting here looking at it. Guess I'll pull that apart and look at it. Thanks again, John m

When in reverse the tractor moves rearward or when in a forward gear tractor moves forward. There is no neutral no matter which position the power director is put in. If the gear shift is placed in neutral then there is no movement when clutch is left out. It's like the power director just stays locked up. I checked the pressure at the Allen head test ports and I only have around 150 lbs. in high or low. About 20 or 30 lbs in neutral. I was going to try and pressure check the actuator at the input line and see if I even have more than 150 lbs coming from the pump. Sorry if my explanation is confusing. Thanks, John

Did you actually disassemble the P.D. clutch ??   How did it work before you took the tractor apart ??

But, low pressure has nothing to do with serious creeping, if I'm understanding the complaint correctly. All low pressure would cause is slipping under a load.

I wouldnt do nothing till you get the pressure up !

Ok Doc, I'll try that next and see what's happening. Thanks

I just went out to the garage and put the power director in neutral, put it in high gear with a little throttle, I left the clutch out. I held both brakes and the engine bogged down a little and kept running with clutch out.

Pull side cover and look at PD. Plates should be evenly spaced apart. If not, you have some warped divider or broke  plates.

John m wrote: What do you mean by reseal? I did put the three sealing rings in and new housing that bolts to trans for pd. Are you referring to the seals inside the pd? Thanks, John

Thanks Mack. Ive been reading through old posts half the night and I think I may be on to the problem. I think I may have damaged the pd when aligning the torque housing and transmission. I had to keep turning the pd and input shaft to get it together and remember it was a bugger to get together. I read one post about three in the morning where someone damaged theirs that way. I'm leaning towards splitting it again and see if that's what happened. Wish there was another way to be sure but I don't know of one. PD worked great before I exploded all the gears in housing.

Piston stroke should be equal for low and high side when air checking.

Doc Mack. I removed valve and plate from right side to look at pd. The front portion I can move the tab ends of plates with my finger. The rear tabs feel tight and the springs appear collapsed. I spun the director and checked it all around and it appears that way all around. I put the rubber tipped air nozzle on both small tubes and gave it air. Air is coming out of the divider both at the very front portion by the plates and at the rear portion by the plates. The front portion does move with air, the back portion moves very little. I know by using my finger the front set of discs are definitely loser than the rear. Sorry if I'm confusing with my explanations. John m

Edited by John m - 12 Apr 2022 at 9:56am

But, you have an internal problem. The free movement of the separator plates on the front (low) section is the way it should be. Warped or broken plates/discs will make things like they are in the rear (high) section. This is what's causing the excessive drag. Maybe caused by low pressure from before, which will allow slipping under a load.

Replace all the hi side plates from 7000 plates. Don't have # but can get it later or Dr. has it in his head.                      MACK