190xt Injector Leak

DrAllis wrote: Even after replacing a valve cover gasket, there will be a certain amount of bleeding that continues until the injector bores are completely dried out. DON'T PANIC WHEN U THINK IT'S STILL LEAKING.

the sleeve is the brass ferrule that i can see is on the line just below the nut. Just put it back in. The end of the tube may be crimped down to create a resistance, so the oil flows through the rocker arms, and not just out the drain tube.

snug it down tight. 

You can get the ferrules at any good hardware store. The vacuum is a good idea. Just start it up before you start scraping and it will get all the fines before they have a chance to get into the engine. You should get a wire brush (a round one) that goes into the bore hole of the inj. and it will clean the side on the hole and the carbon in the bottom. Polish it real good. It will save tons of time. 

It is an early 1968 based upon the serial number.

Here is another status on this project:

1) I put hitack on the gasket, two coats and tried to install it.  I got 7 screws loosely in  place and the last screw would not start without attempting to crossthread.  Much to my dismay, I had to remove all screws and lift up the valve cover and start that one screw in straight with the valve cover lifted.  Then I was able to lower and start the other 7 screws.  This probably compromised my hitack sealing by lifting the cover.

2) I did not order the special screws and use them.  I forgot to do this before vacation and when I got back, I just wanted to finish this job.

3) I didn't want to over tighten the screws so I used an allen wrench and hand tightened with the short end, so I couldn't put a lot of leverage on the screws.  After hand tightening many times, I gave each screw a quarter turn with a wrench.  I plugged in my block heater and left it overnight.  The next day they were all loose so the engine heat did something to loosen and I proceeded to tighten them again.  I then started the engine and let it run to get the engine hot.  I came back 30 minutes later and they were loose enough for me to hand tighten again so I tightened them.  I left it sit overnight.  Next day they were still tight so I felt like I had adequately tightened them but not too much.

4) I started the engine and let it run and revved to 2000 rpms.  I ended up with a leak on each end of the valve cover.  I tightened it a bit more on the ends.  I will look at it again tonight, but I suspect I may have to start over.  

5) This thread started out about a leaking injector.  I had wiped clean the area around the injector on both the 1st and 6th injector.  After running the tractor the last time, I inspected both injectors.  The 1st injector had no fluid around it.  The sixth injector had fluid around it.  It is inconclusive if this is oil or fuel at this time, but the fluid doesn't seem to be thick like oil.  I think the valve cover was leaking above the 1st injector and now that is fixed.

6) The valve cover was previously leaking on both ends.  In fact that is where the vast majority of the gunk was on the engine.  Especially the front of the engine.  My leak doesn't appear to be as bad as it used to be, but I don't want any leaks.

7) If I start over, I am going to try 3M 847 Brown Nitrile gasket adhesive instead of gorilla glue.  3M says it is oil resistant and high heat.  I have to order it. 3

Now that I know that one screw is a problem, I will start with it and shouldn't have to pull the cover off which I think screwed up my hitack and probably created a little space for the oil to leak out.  I am wondering if I need to tighten the screws up more than I have the second time around since both ends are leaking a little?

I detailed this so that someone can correct my wrong doings, avoid my pitfalls or console me.  :-)  Thanks for any input.

Really what you use isn't important. I'd use #2 permatex, but there are tons of options. If you walk into an autoparts store and ask them, you'll probably leavge with something that will work. Just not gorilla glue...

Good news is that I tightened all of the screws some more and it appears that my leaks on the ends have stopped!  I would say I am in the 10-15 lbs of torque area so that was good advice.  I ran it for 15 minutes at 2000 rpm and didn't see any oil leaks.  Bad news is however, I still have the injector closest to the cab which I think is 6th injector with fluid around it, which started this whole thread!  The other injector that I saw fluid around does not have fluid around it any longer so that was a valve cover leak issue.  See the pic below.  Of course, the injector is so close to the valve cover, you can't see if any oil is leaking down.  I tried to wipe away the fluid with a paper towel and smell it for diesel fuel but there is just not enough.  I am starting to think my situation is in the 1% category that Dr Allis gave me for an injector leak.  I am going to move onto other issues and use the tractor for awhile to see if the valve cover leaks after use and maybe I will be able to accumulate enough of the fluid to figure out what it is.  Is there any kind of test that anyone would know of that would help me figure out what this fluid is?
 
Thanks to all that responded.  I couldn't do these repairs without the forum members that's for sure!

Thanks Ed. I forgot about the possibility that oil could still seep for awhile. Dr. Allis also warned me on that. I will report back.

Funny you should bring this up. I know we all discussed that it was probably the oil leaking around the valve cover gasket onto the injector. After reinstalling the valve cover this past winter, I have run the tractor a bunch since hay season started. I still have a leak around the first injector. I don't appear to have any oil leaks around that valve cover anywhere else though.

I am suspecting that I do have a leaking injector, but I was going to wait until hay season is over, and then I am going to deinstall the hood, since that is pretty easy, get up on top of the engine and see if any oil leaks around that valve cover onto the injector while it is running. It will still be tight to see it. Someone said I could use some oil dye as another idea to get to the bottom of it, but not sure about that.

I also think I should rebuild/replace the injectors regardless. I have done about everything else at this point anyway to the fuel system.

When I finally conclude the end to this leak, I will definitely report back my findings. Thanks for asking.