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170 3 point hitch won't go down |
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rebelfireman02 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 17 Apr 2016 Location: texas Points: 5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 6:24pm |
I have to start off by saying that this is my father-in-laws tractor and I know very little about it. A while back, he was brush hogging and lifted the brush hog all the way up. When he tried to lower it, nothing he could do would make it lower. We have since removed the brush hog with a backhoe. If you hit the other hydraulic levers, the pump binds up like normal (no front end loader or other equipment to test if they're working properly). today, we disconnected the hydraulic lines to the two cylinders and set the bucket of the backhoe on the lift arms to try and make them go down. Wouldn't move. What could be wrong? Is there some type of cylinder lock that I'm missing? Please help and thanks in advance.
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DSeries4 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7444 |
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The traction booster linkage under the hydraulic console is rusted up and pushing on the traction booster valve. Common problem after 40 some years of water and dirt creating rust.
There is a cam that is pushing on the traction booster valve. Pull the cam away from the valve and your hydraulics should lower when you use the hydraulic lever. The best thing to do is to take the cam apart (sits on a bushing) and clean the rust out and apply some anti seize to it - should be good for another 40 years after that. This is a picture of what you are looking for (from my 175). On the right is the cam I am referring to. it's a bit of a tough spot to get to, but since I had everything apart to paint... ![]() |
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Lynn Marshall ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Dana, Iowa Points: 2349 |
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Welcome to the forum.If you have taken the hoses loose where they attach to the cylinders and still can't get it to go down,then you have some extremely poor or rusted cylinders.
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8499 |
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You hear this scenario a lot on ser 4 D17's which would be basically like your 170.That stuck lever always seems to be the culprit.
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Eldon (WA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
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I doubt if that is his problem since he took the hoses off the cylinders. But the last one I did had a stuck valve that the cam mechanism activates. I was able to reach in fron the side with a pair of channel-locks and twist the valve end slightly and it popped right out. |
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Eldon (WA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
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Yes if this is the problem I would take the pins out of the cylinders at the lift arms and see if you can rotate the piston rods. If not, you have big problems..... |
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Linn is right, unless you unhooked the wrong lines. MACK
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Eldon (WA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
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I think that is why I got this tractor cheap....owner had replaced seals in one cylinder, then when he started the tractor the arms went up and he couldn't get them to come down. He said he loosened the hoses to get them to come down but they went back up when he started the tractor. 5 minuts, the channel-loc trick and they have been fine ever since. ![]() |
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22822 |
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If the hydraulic lines to both cylinders are disconnected, and the arms won't go down, I see NO WAY it can be the traction booster cam causing the problem. ![]() Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 18 Apr 2016 at 6:42am |
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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Stan IL&TN ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elvis Land Points: 6730 |
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Time to pull one or both cylinders. One of them is in a bind.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
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rebelfireman02 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 17 Apr 2016 Location: texas Points: 5 |
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Thanks for the help. I will try all of this tomorrow when I am off work and see if it helps! I appreciate it!
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rebelfireman02 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 17 Apr 2016 Location: texas Points: 5 |
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Update. Finally caught a break in the rain today. I removed the pin from the right hand cylinder and the lift arms went down. I didn't have time to remove the cylinder completely. I stopped here for the day. Would you suggest trying to rotate the cylinder to free it up? What would cause one to lock up like this?
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JC-WI ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 34217 |
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170 should have the small shaft cylinder, Take the offending cylinder off and unscrew the end cap that has the cylinder rod thru it, and pull plunger from cylinder and you may see why it is stuck. could be the seal wedged and not allowing it down. or the nut came off inside and ..... well you will find out.
Now if its like the cylinder like the one in Eldon's picture with the big shaft cylinder, then you have to get the cylinder collapsed to pry a keeper ring off down in the bottom thru the hose inlet port which allows the cylinder rod to then be extracted from bore. |
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
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rebelfireman02 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 17 Apr 2016 Location: texas Points: 5 |
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It's definitely the smaller shaft.
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