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170 3 point hitch won't go down

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rebelfireman02 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 6:24pm
I have to start off by saying that this is my father-in-laws tractor and I know very little about it. A while back, he was brush hogging and lifted the brush hog all the way up. When he tried to lower it, nothing he could do would make it lower. We have since removed the brush hog with a backhoe. If you hit the other hydraulic levers, the pump binds up like normal (no front end loader or other equipment to test if they're working properly). today, we disconnected the hydraulic lines to the two cylinders and set the bucket of the backhoe on the lift arms to try and make them go down. Wouldn't move. What could be wrong? Is there some type of cylinder lock that I'm missing? Please help and thanks in advance.
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DSeries4 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 7:42pm
The traction booster linkage under the hydraulic console is rusted up and pushing on the traction booster valve.  Common problem after 40 some years of water and dirt creating rust.
There is a cam that is pushing on the traction booster valve.  Pull the cam away from the valve and your hydraulics should lower when you use the hydraulic lever.  The best thing to do is to take the cam apart (sits on a bushing) and clean the rust out and apply some anti seize to it - should be good for another 40 years after that.
This is a picture of what you are looking for (from my 175).  On the right is the cam I am referring to.  it's a bit of a tough spot to get to, but since I had everything apart to paint...

'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Lynn Marshall View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 7:55pm
Welcome to the forum.If you have taken the hoses loose where they attach to the cylinders and still can't get it to go down,then you have some extremely poor or rusted cylinders.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 8:55pm
You hear this scenario a lot on ser 4 D17's which would be basically like your 170.That stuck lever always seems to be the culprit.
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Eldon (WA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 10:07pm
Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:

The traction booster linkage under the hydraulic console is rusted up and pushing on the traction booster valve.  Common problem after 40 some years of water and dirt creating rust.
There is a cam that is pushing on the traction booster valve.  Pull the cam away from the valve and your hydraulics should lower when you use the hydraulic lever.  The best thing to do is to take the cam apart (sits on a bushing) and clean the rust out and apply some anti seize to it - should be good for another 40 years after that.
This is a picture of what you are looking for (from my 175).  On the right is the cam I am referring to.  it's a bit of a tough spot to get to, but since I had everything apart to paint...



I doubt if that is his problem since he took the hoses off the cylinders. But the last one I did had a stuck valve that the cam mechanism activates. I was able to reach in fron the side with a pair of channel-locks and twist the valve end slightly and it popped right out.
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Eldon (WA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 10:09pm
Originally posted by Lynn Marshall Lynn Marshall wrote:

Welcome to the forum.If you have taken the hoses loose where they attach to the cylinders and still can't get it to go down,then you have some extremely poor or rusted cylinders.


Yes if this is the problem I would take the pins out of the cylinders at the lift arms and see if you can rotate the piston rods. If not, you have big problems.....
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 10:10pm
Linn is right, unless you unhooked the wrong lines.   MACK
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Eldon (WA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 10:15pm
Originally posted by Eldon (WA) Eldon (WA) wrote:

Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:

The traction booster linkage under the hydraulic console is rusted up and pushing on the traction booster valve.  Common problem after 40 some years of water and dirt creating rust.
There is a cam that is pushing on the traction booster valve.  Pull the cam away from the valve and your hydraulics should lower when you use the hydraulic lever.  The best thing to do is to take the cam apart (sits on a bushing) and clean the rust out and apply some anti seize to it - should be good for another 40 years after that.
This is a picture of what you are looking for (from my 175).  On the right is the cam I am referring to.  it's a bit of a tough spot to get to, but since I had everything apart to paint...



I doubt if that is his problem since he took the hoses off the cylinders. But the last one I did had a stuck valve that the cam mechanism activates. I was able to reach in fron the side with a pair of channel-locks and twist the valve end slightly and it popped right out.

I think that is why I got this tractor cheap....owner had replaced seals in one cylinder, then when he started the tractor the arms went up and he couldn't get them to come down. He said he loosened the hoses to get them to come down but they went back up when he started the tractor. 5 minuts, the channel-loc trick and they have been fine ever since.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 6:39am
Originally posted by rebelfireman02 rebelfireman02 wrote:

we disconnected the hydraulic lines to the two cylinders and set the bucket of the backhoe on the lift arms to try and make them go down. Wouldn't move. What could be wrong? Is there some type of cylinder lock that I'm missing? Please help and thanks in advance.


 If the hydraulic lines to both cylinders are disconnected, and the arms won't go down, I see NO WAY it can be the traction booster cam causing the problem. Confused


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 18 Apr 2016 at 6:42am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan IL&TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 7:34am
Time to pull one or both cylinders. One of them is in a bind.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rebelfireman02 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 7:41am
Thanks for the help. I will try all of this tomorrow when I am off work and see if it helps! I appreciate it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rebelfireman02 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr 2016 at 7:24pm
Update. Finally caught a break in the rain today. I removed the pin from the right hand cylinder and the lift arms went down. I didn't have time to remove the cylinder completely. I stopped here for the day. Would you suggest trying to rotate the cylinder to free it up? What would cause one to lock up like this?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr 2016 at 9:40pm
170 should have the small shaft cylinder, Take the offending cylinder off and unscrew the end cap that has the cylinder rod thru it, and pull plunger from cylinder and you may see why it is stuck. could be the seal wedged and not allowing it down. or the nut came off inside and ..... well you will find out.
Now if its like the cylinder like the one in Eldon's picture with the big shaft cylinder, then you have to get the cylinder collapsed to pry a keeper ring off down in the bottom thru the hose inlet port which allows the cylinder rod to then be extracted from bore.
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rebelfireman02 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rebelfireman02 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 2016 at 9:25am
It's definitely the smaller shaft.
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