170 3 point hitch won't go down
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=122057
Printed Date: 07 May 2025 at 1:47pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 170 3 point hitch won't go down
Posted By: rebelfireman02
Subject: 170 3 point hitch won't go down
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 6:24pm
I have to start off by saying that this is my father-in-laws tractor and I know very little about it. A while back, he was brush hogging and lifted the brush hog all the way up. When he tried to lower it, nothing he could do would make it lower. We have since removed the brush hog with a backhoe. If you hit the other hydraulic levers, the pump binds up like normal (no front end loader or other equipment to test if they're working properly). today, we disconnected the hydraulic lines to the two cylinders and set the bucket of the backhoe on the lift arms to try and make them go down. Wouldn't move. What could be wrong? Is there some type of cylinder lock that I'm missing? Please help and thanks in advance.
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Replies:
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 7:42pm
The traction booster linkage under the hydraulic console is rusted up and pushing on the traction booster valve. Common problem after 40 some years of water and dirt creating rust. There is a cam that is pushing on the traction booster valve. Pull the cam away from the valve and your hydraulics should lower when you use the hydraulic lever. The best thing to do is to take the cam apart (sits on a bushing) and clean the rust out and apply some anti seize to it - should be good for another 40 years after that. This is a picture of what you are looking for (from my 175). On the right is the cam I am referring to. it's a bit of a tough spot to get to, but since I had everything apart to paint... http://s526.photobucket.com/user/szalmyr/media/175/DSC02994_zps29283bcf.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 7:55pm
Welcome to the forum.If you have taken the hoses loose where they attach to the cylinders and still can't get it to go down,then you have some extremely poor or rusted cylinders.
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 8:55pm
You hear this scenario a lot on ser 4 D17's which would be basically like your 170.That stuck lever always seems to be the culprit.
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Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 10:07pm
DSeries4 wrote:
The traction booster linkage under the hydraulic console is rusted up and pushing on the traction booster valve. Common problem after 40 some years of water and dirt creating rust. There is a cam that is pushing on the traction booster valve. Pull the cam away from the valve and your hydraulics should lower when you use the hydraulic lever. The best thing to do is to take the cam apart (sits on a bushing) and clean the rust out and apply some anti seize to it - should be good for another 40 years after that. This is a picture of what you are looking for (from my 175). On the right is the cam I am referring to. it's a bit of a tough spot to get to, but since I had everything apart to paint... http://s526.photobucket.com/user/szalmyr/media/175/DSC02994_zps29283bcf.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
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I doubt if that is his problem since he took the hoses off the cylinders. But the last one I did had a stuck valve that the cam mechanism activates. I was able to reach in fron the side with a pair of channel-locks and twist the valve end slightly and it popped right out.
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Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 10:09pm
Lynn Marshall wrote:
Welcome to the forum.If you have taken the hoses loose where they attach to the cylinders and still can't get it to go down,then you have some extremely poor or rusted cylinders. |
Yes if this is the problem I would take the pins out of the cylinders at the lift arms and see if you can rotate the piston rods. If not, you have big problems.....
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 10:10pm
Linn is right, unless you unhooked the wrong lines. MACK
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Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2016 at 10:15pm
Eldon (WA) wrote:
DSeries4 wrote:
The traction booster linkage under the hydraulic console is rusted up and pushing on the traction booster valve. Common problem after 40 some years of water and dirt creating rust. There is a cam that is pushing on the traction booster valve. Pull the cam away from the valve and your hydraulics should lower when you use the hydraulic lever. The best thing to do is to take the cam apart (sits on a bushing) and clean the rust out and apply some anti seize to it - should be good for another 40 years after that. This is a picture of what you are looking for (from my 175). On the right is the cam I am referring to. it's a bit of a tough spot to get to, but since I had everything apart to paint... http://s526.photobucket.com/user/szalmyr/media/175/DSC02994_zps29283bcf.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
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I doubt if that is his problem since he took the hoses off the cylinders. But the last one I did had a stuck valve that the cam mechanism activates. I was able to reach in fron the side with a pair of channel-locks and twist the valve end slightly and it popped right out. | I think that is why I got this tractor cheap....owner had replaced seals in one cylinder, then when he started the tractor the arms went up and he couldn't get them to come down. He said he loosened the hoses to get them to come down but they went back up when he started the tractor. 5 minuts, the channel-loc trick and they have been fine ever since. http://s29.photobucket.com/user/ejons/media/007_zpsyul7ryua.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
------------- ALLIS EXPRESS! This year:
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 6:39am
rebelfireman02 wrote:
we disconnected the hydraulic lines to the two cylinders and set the bucket of the backhoe on the lift arms to try and make them go down. Wouldn't move. What could be wrong? Is there some type of cylinder lock that I'm missing? Please help and thanks in advance. |
If the hydraulic lines to both cylinders are disconnected, and the arms won't go down, I see NO WAY it can be the traction booster cam causing the problem.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 7:34am
Time to pull one or both cylinders. One of them is in a bind.
------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Posted By: rebelfireman02
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 7:41am
Thanks for the help. I will try all of this tomorrow when I am off work and see if it helps! I appreciate it!
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Posted By: rebelfireman02
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2016 at 7:24pm
Update. Finally caught a break in the rain today. I removed the pin from the right hand cylinder and the lift arms went down. I didn't have time to remove the cylinder completely. I stopped here for the day. Would you suggest trying to rotate the cylinder to free it up? What would cause one to lock up like this?
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Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2016 at 9:40pm
170 should have the small shaft cylinder, Take the offending cylinder off and unscrew the end cap that has the cylinder rod thru it, and pull plunger from cylinder and you may see why it is stuck. could be the seal wedged and not allowing it down. or the nut came off inside and ..... well you will find out. Now if its like the cylinder like the one in Eldon's picture with the big shaft cylinder, then you have to get the cylinder collapsed to pry a keeper ring off down in the bottom thru the hose inlet port which allows the cylinder rod to then be extracted from bore.
------------- He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Posted By: rebelfireman02
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2016 at 9:25am
It's definitely the smaller shaft.
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