WD Rear Bolt Up To WD45?

Also, when using the 53-14 plow on the WD45, I don't have to remove the PTO shaft. Will I have to with the WD?

You're making this waaay too hard.     " My WD-45 needs the foot clutch replaced"--REPLACE THE CLUTCH........."the hand clutch needs work, maybe replacing"-- REMOVE THE BATTERY BOX AND COVER AND TRY AND PULL SOME SHIMS......." the left brake is seizing" --- SO RELINE THE BRAKE SHOES AND MAYBE REPLACE THE DRUM........." and most of the bearings back there probably need a good looking at"----REALLY?? IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T GO LOOKING FOR TROUBLE...EVERY BEARING IN IT IS 60 YRS OLD AND WILL ALL SHOW SOME NORMAL WEAR......

If you want to do the engine transplant yes it will fit.

I have a "WD 45" wide front like that with a Kelly loader on it. Engine serial numbers are 1956 45--solid block, tall head, bigger carb and air cleaner, front end is a 4 bolt, hood/sheet metal all faded factory decaled WD45, but everything from the engine on back is from a '49 WD according to the serial numbers on the rear casting, and straight gearshift. Never looked at the hand clutch, but I would guess it is the WD. Somebody must have swapped it around long ago. Dad and I bought it that way in 1997 at an auction.

It's been a long time and this is an old thread, but at long last I've had a (very) little time over the past couple of weeks or so to devote to the WD45.

1. Hand clutch - looks great, really looks new. Possibly replaced by the previous owner. I went in expecting to find a bunch of problems including but not limited to the snap ring being broken, but everything was clean and solid. Except, I noticed that engaging-disengaging the hand clutch, the shaft moved ok but the unit didn't always follow suit. Checked for the shift fork set screw, the lock nut apparently wasn't secured and the set screw was loose. Fixed that. Now it's perfect. I was hopeful that the rest of what needs work would be as super easy.

Well, not so much lol!

2. The left brake - maybe the whole reason it hasn't been right is that the shoes are definitely NOT for, or from, a WD or WD45. At least from comparing them to the right brake and all the manuals. I have no idea what they actually came from. I have pics, but can't seem to upload from my phone. Anyways, the shoes are "closed," so to speak; at the top, and the front and rear springs go through very small square openings, I can't see any part of the springs once they go into those openings. The metal on those shoes is noticeably thicker than the other. Maybe they were used because the shoes are no longer available and these were an attempt to cheap-out on a brake job, maybe they were homemade, or (likely) maybe because I'm ignorant and these actually ARE just a different style of shoes made for the tractor. Anyways, I found a very good complete set of used brakes and will be using those when I make the repairs to both brakes. WHEN, lol...

3. The other issue is the PTO. The gasket had been leaking for longer than I've owned the tractor, all I used to do was refill to full before using it for the day. That's a ridiculous way to deal with the problem, I know, but - moving on, I have a new gasket to install. I detached the rear PTO carrier and dropped the PTO housing. One nut on the rear of the housing didn't loosen and the stud unscrewed with the nut, no biggie there at all. However, the bolt hole on the shaft is badly wallowed-out (shoulder bolt there is fine, but of course sloppy), and I can't separate the PTO shaft from the output shaft. I don't want to wail on this too much, or try to pry it off, because I don't want to cause any damage to the housing. I won't be able to get back to working on it until the weekend at the earliest, I plan on applying a little heat to the shaft to try to get them to separate. I'm thinking that the way things wore out at the bolt hole, there may have been a lip of some sort that developed and is keeping them from separating. Any thoughts?

So far, everything else that I mentioned last year turns out to be fine. Well, at least acceptable. I want to have this done to get plowing soon, if it ever stops snowing here and the temps can climb out of the 30's!

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
- Tim

I wouldn't worry too much unless the hole is really terrible. I might spend $20 plus shipping on the coupler than go. If the shaft come apart because of the hole you can worry about it then. I doubt it'll every have a problem really.

Thanks Steve, that's something I wish I'd thought of beforehand. I didn't have much time to fiddle around yesterday, but I did consider putting the PTO back into the torque tube and bolting it back up. Unfortunately when I tried replacing the housing it didn't want to go back in and I ran out of time to work on it any more. Next time I'm able to get to it, I'll try that.

Started a new thread on actually doing the repairs, --> http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/topic149572_post1242901.html#1242901

Any help appreciated!