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Is a cool running powerful 426 Possible?

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Joined: 14 Jan 2019
Location: Kentucky
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    Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 1:37pm
Good afternoon guys.  In September my dad passed and left me his 220 allis. I have  a small hobby farm (15 acres) and I was thinking of buying a 6 16 plow to grow.  I grew up on his 1000 acre farm ( that my brother still farms) and spent many a year clipping with the tractor which is why I assume he has given it to me.  I LOVE Allis and he had as follows  220, 7080, 7060, 200, 190xt 7000.  D21 he sold before he got his 220.  Without a doubt the 301 Allis is one of the finest diesels ever created. The 426 however....My brother has all but given up on them.  If I cant figure out why they all run hot, wont start, wont create boost, and have NO power under 2000 rpm he is just going to park them and buy a 1586 IH.  The 220 has new turbo, sleeve kit, cam, rebuilt pump and injectors pop tested at 3k. Everyone says always acts like I'm crazy, but I can rebuild the 301 and make it sing.  The 7080 is a monster when it is above 2200 rpm, under that and it will barely move itself.  My brother is contemplated putting compound turbos on it to make power to lug but as some have told him, best not to do anything to the "Harvey hand grenades" Really like to use my 220 and for him not to go to the red side... but outlook is not good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shieldslx13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 4:02pm
anyone????????????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 5:16pm
Sorry to hear of your dad's passing. Sounds like my kind of guy. The 301 is a great engine, sounds great running day or night. I think the 426 was a good engine , but like anything it had it's limits. Several things cause one to run hot, loose fan belts, worn pulleys, impeller worn, timing off, missing foam around letting fan lose suction, stopped up radiator. Just to name a few. I would start trying to eliminate what is causing it. If your brother wants to go red, I would wonder if he really was kin! LOL HTH Tracy
No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 5:20pm
Never heard them called "Harvey hand grenades" before. 

I won't be much help, but I do have a story. From my limited experience with the 426, they do run on the warm side, even with the radiator clean. My uncle told me a story about how he attended a "combine school" put on by the local A-C dealer after his dad bought a Gleaner L3 (426 engine). The guys at the dealer told them Allis was getting complaints from worried farmers because the temp gauge needle resided on the line between green and red, so on later models they just moved the border between green and red further to the right. 
I have noticed occasionally on the L3 the gauge will dip into the red momentarily, then go back into the green. Radiator is good and clean. However...it does start easily and builds boost when needed, which is the opposite of what you've been experiencing. Perhaps the smarter A-C guys like the Dr. will chime in...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 5:27pm
That's a whole bunch of complaints all in one paragraph and kind of vague. "They all run hot"?...…"They won't start"?...."They won't create boost"????…… " They have NO power under 2,000 RPM and he's just going to park them and buy a 1586.  I won't even address the remaining complaints.  #1. Tractors that are 35+ years old running hot can sure be a lot of things. Like a dirty radiator inside and outside. Lack of foam around the entire radiator so air has to be directed thru the radiator core. New thermostats. Slipping fan belts and worn pulleys. (that 220 has to have really TIGHT fan belts or I know they will slip at full throttle). And on a 7000 series there is always a good possibility the temp gauge is reading high making you think it's hot when it isn't. Now if you want to argue about that, go right ahead cause I've changed out dozens of temp gauges and senders just for that complaint. I've also been down the road of "my radiator isn't dirty" and after I spend 3 hrs washing it out then it's clean thru the core where the air must go. #2. They won't start??  You must mean they start with difficulty??  Again 35 yr old starters and cables and on and on and on. You may as well buy the Farmall because on a 10 degree day I'm sure it will pop right off easy. That's their nature and they are 17 to 1 compression ratio.  Funny a guy who lives in Kentucky doesn't know what cold even is when it comes to cold starting. There are a lot of Customers who live way farther north of you that know how to get an AC started when they need it. #3. They won't create boost?? Really like ZERO boost ?? That 7080 must make some boost over 2,000 RPM and 18 psi would be a minimum under full load.  Your 220 should make probably 12 to 14 psi boost at full load depending on what turbo is on it. I would have installed a 7000 series turbo if it was recently replaced. If you have performance issues like this, they need to be addressed and not whine about "no boost".  #4. They have no power under 2,000 RPM. Well, a well tuned 220-7030 thru 7060 turbo spool up point is 1700 RPM. Maybe the advance on your injection pump is advancing too soon? The 7080 is a little more like 2,000 RPM and that would be normal. You really don't want to lug these engine below those numbers anyway, as it places the bottom end of the engine under much stress and strain. The 7000 series and up all have a "wet" clutch and that it what it is made for.  That wonderful Farmall has an old technology dry clutch. Good luck abusing it !!   I'm really leaning towards telling you to get the Farmall.  I can see your complaints will never be satisfied.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 6:19pm

1. Engines run hot because the heat it takes to make power is not taken away -thermal rejection - by the cooling system - seems simple  but the tractors were all designed to run around 205 degrees  under full load for long periods of time.  What causes most heating issues is exactly what the Dr. sez dirty clogged radiators. IF you think yours is clean remove the shroud and coolers in front and take a good look. If you can't see through the radiator fins they are clogged - if they are clogged only 10 per cent then the temp will probably be 220 degrees or hot on the gauge.  You can tell if the coolant is flowing by running til the thermostats open and looking into the fill neck have some one rev from idle to full throttle - the coolant will go down immediately 2 to 3 inches.  IF not it is corroded inside and must be rodded out.  And I assure you they do not all run hot - I have 5 on the farm.  One should not pull any old diesel designed with a rated load of 2200-2500 rpm   loaded,  under 2000 RPM - the rod brg load on old engines gets really high.   Also  each added hp due to fuel increase demands more coolant capacity. As to the 220 it will run fine at 135 hp... it will not run cool in hot weather at 160- 200 hp...   on my 210 we installed a fan with more blades - worked great except as pointed out the belts slipped.  I installed a flat idler on the RH side to push the belts in and 'wrap' the water pump pulley  for more grip - my grooves are worn badly.  Works great   at a higher hp setting.  Finally if you insist on running less than 2000 rpm get a turbo matched for that - like a .8 A/R ratio exhaust housing  instead of the .96 that is std  or get a waste gated turbo unit...   BTY  Plowing is a dirty word in Ky where No-til was born and perfected.... and if you do park the old AC's we would be glad to remove them to avoid the clutter and mowing around them issue.

When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 6:55pm
Sounds like very poor mantaniace program to me, little things that don't take much time can make a big differerce
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 7:07pm
The guy is a farmall guy..lets get down to brass frickin tacks. Buy the IH .

Edited by oldorangeiron - 15 Jan 2019 at 5:42am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote victoryallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 7:36pm
Betting life won’t be any better running red.   Like Doc said the rads maybe dirtier than they appear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 8:17pm
My 7060 won 't go over 180 no matter the load or outside temp if radiator core has been cleaned of debris and the foam kit around the radiator is in very good shape. We pulled a 6 bottom moldboard plow or a big disk (I think 24 feet) that loaded it pretty heavy. If either of those were not right it would run up to between 180 and 210 with less load than that even on 40 or 50 degree days. The radiator would stay cleaner if the foam kit was good. It was not turned up to my knowledge and I think that helps on overheating. I say the cooling system on those tractors is big enough and good enough. It do not really know what else to compare it to except my 424 ih utility tractor that does about the same if the core gets clogged up with grass seed bushogging. no foam to fail on it.
Neighbor has a nice 7080 that always ran hot till he redid the foam He was amazed that he could work it hard as he wanted and no overheating.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 8:41pm
These tractors run in dust, pollen and a lot of other stuff. They get plugged up quickly!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 9:15pm
I have 5 of the 426's and don't have any of the issue's that you described. Darrel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote soggybottomboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 9:37pm
Our 8050 was running a temperature too,so i took the radiator off and when they cleaned it at the radiator shop,it fell apart. Put in a new one and it doesn't even think about running hot,even when you are working it in a 90 degree day.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 9:51pm
You cannot see the inside of the radiator unless the top or bottom is removed. Take it to a radiator shop and have top removed then tell us the radiator is clean.      MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lentsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 2:39am
Thought my 7060 was running hot, sending unit was bad. Easy fix for once!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 6:02am
My D-14 and the forklift both tended to run 'warm'. Took the rad out of the D-14, cleaned the rad inside and out and it's been fine ever since. The forklift's a real pain though. Can't get to the rad easy cause someone stuck a 4,000 # hunk of cast iron around it ! It does run a lot cooler when I can see daylight through the fins !!
Now my Kubota has air 'reverse flow'. it draws air from operators station and pulls it past engin, through rad and out the front. They claim it keeps rad cleaner.
I'm wondering if any of the 'big' tractors do this ?
just some observations...
Jay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 6:22am
Yes. IH did that on the late great 5088-5288-5488 and it didn't work all that good. They took in air from the top of the hood and blew it forward thru the radiator inside of a box that made it hard to clean when needed. Imagine chopping corn and having leaves get sucked onto the top of the hood. Enuff said.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 8:03am
Originally posted by victoryallis victoryallis wrote:

Betting life won’t be any better running red.   Like Doc said the rads maybe dirtier than they appear.

Especially a 1586! Great engine, but the 3 speed transmission puts you either too slow or too fast for ideal speeds, plus the TA will either be out or going out lmao!
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 8:49am
Well, there's another potential new member who is probably sorry he asked. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 9:08am
Not to mention rear end troubles of nearly all high hp IH built tractors from the 66 series on through the 86 series. Look at the front axle of the IH. Now I grease my front axle parts on our 7030 and 7050 and all my tractors EVERY DAY I RUN IT but many don't. If you are not good with maintenance then a 1586 is not the tractor for you. Their front axles suck as does the shifting linkage and PTO linkage and especially when the cab sinks over time, the clutch valve linkage. The TA was already mentioned and yes you can save on it some if you don't abuse it but the TA WILL FAIL at some point because of the sprag clutch. The mechanical diode replacement CaseIH came up with to replace the sprag sucks too. Good luck with that 1586. You're brother will get an education on why maintenance is needed in a quick hurry. Hopefully he'll apply that lesson to the rest of his fleet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 9:16am
Originally posted by Tbone95 Tbone95 wrote:

Well, there's another potential new member who is probably sorry he asked. 
It's just being blunt, maybe too blunt but hopefully he'll relay the message to his brother that he needs a maintenance program. Now if he had said it's just too far to get parts to keep AC on the farm, I can could sympathize. Maybe I'm blunt because I've heard the same argument from a good friend that only runs Allis without ever having anything else and has pretty much a zero maintenance program with all his equipment. It gets old when I haven't had any of these issues at all or if I do I figure out the problem and fix it and the next guy has nothing but trouble and just condemns his equipment without knowing how to maintain a piece of equipment. Maybe it applies to this fellow and maybe it doesn't but he hasn't answered whether or not his brother has a good maintenance program. ..................Maybe I'm just ornery.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 7060 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 9:18am
My 7060 has always struggled to stay cool or at least below 100 ambient. In a hot day working it I can’t use all my available horsepower and stay at or below 200 degrees. My tractor is dynoing 190hp though and wasn’t made to keep cool at that horsepower. I took my radiator to a shop and had it rodded cleaned and boiled out, new foam, thermostats, digital temp gauge, and still wasn’t happy. I should have just put a 7080 radiator on with the extra cores. If it’s below 90 degrees outside no problems though. I would wonder with a 220/7030 if the pump has been changed and the radiator is smaller yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex09(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 10:02am
Welcome to the forum! Sorry to hear about your dad's passing.

Don't listen to the naysayers on the forum, stick with Allis-Chalmers! I would suggest writing up a checklist with the potential causes mentioned above. Then choose one tractor to start on. Take one tractor at a time and concentrate on one problem at a time. Say the 7060. Take the hard starting problem first. My friend owns a 7060 and whenever it gets below 32, he plugs it in for a couple hours and it pops right off. Now try that if you have a working block heater and see if it starts good then. If you dont want to plug your tractors in, you need to find the reason they don't start well and fix it. The 426 needs 3 things to start good: Air, Heat from compression, and Fuel at the right time.
1. check the air filter to make sure it is not plugged. Then blow it out good with your air compressor to make sure it is clean.
2. a. Find out how many hours are on the tractor since its last overhaul. If its more than roughly 4000, you prolly have some wear on the pistons, rings and sleeves, causing you to no longer have perfect compression, resulting in less heat to ignite the fuel.
b. Check the battery cables to make sure the clamp ends are free from corrosion and the cables themselves are not frayed. Replace as nessessary. Good cables are important to transfer the battery power to the starter without loosing voltage/amperage.
c. Take the starter in to a repair shop to have it checked. The brushes and bushings are prolly wore. If its worn, have it rebuilt that way you have a fresh, properly performing starter.
3. Double check the injection pump to confirm the timing is not off. I had a 180 diesel tractor that started very hard and the timing was too far advanced. I retarded it a bit and then it started very easy (like night and day difference)
   Once you get the starting issue figured out, go to the overheating issue.
Run the tractor up to operating temperature good and hot, then idle the tractor, then check the temperature of the coolant in the radiator with a laser temp gun or stick a thermometer in the top of the radiator. Now compare this reading to what it says on the gauge. You may find that the gauge is reading wrong. If so, replace the gauge and sending unit. If the radiator temp is in fact too high, check the things Dr allis and Tbran suggested above. The little things first and if you are still overheating, take the radiator in to a radiator shop to have it professionally cleaned.
    I would suggest installing a boost psi gauge to check what you have for boost at rthe moment.
    Try these suggestions and if needed, start a new post with which tractor you are working on and any problems you are having. One problem at a time though please, this post was a lot to think about lol! There are a lot of good knowledgeable people on this forum that are always glad to help another Allis guy keep his Allis's going!! Hopefully we'll help you get your Allis's back in the field and keep the IH's out! Again, welcome to the forum and if you are still reading this, sorry for the above people who told you to switch to IH, that is usually unheard of on this forum...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wekracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 10:04am
We have an 8050 and 8070 both power shift. The 50 was starting to heat about 6 years ago. Pulled the radiator and had it rodded and put new foam in. Has stayed cool ever since. The 8070 will heat up if it’s 90 outside and you work it hard. 5th low is 6.2 mph. If I drop to 4th it stays cool. i Probably need to pull that radiator too and have it done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shieldslx13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 10:05am

Thanks for all the replies....

I hope I offended no one!!!!!  I love Allis, I really do.  To let me also post my case... My brother has an amazing maintenance program. Rot T synthetic every 100 hrs, along with new filters all the way around.  While we have rebuilt pumps and injectors on our own, we do not feel confidant in doing so. Pop pressure is right on the injectors compression is good.  I do understand the foam, although I didn't until I finally stuffed some t-shirts between the radiator and  frame on the 220.  I have since put on the real.  I am asking questions because I am confidant that these can run good. My suspicion is the injector pumps.  Also, when I ordered a cam for my 220, It was the same PN as the 301. The reason he is wanting an IH is the indestructability and power of his 1466 combines.  I was honestly hoping someone would tell me "oh I had those exact same problems and it was ....."  I was thinking about getting an injector pump and injectors off a good running 426 and seeing if that helps.  And we have also done the radiators.  My Dad, before he died, bought an Oliver (Moline) 1355 with the 585 and that thing is an absolute MONSTER.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shieldslx13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 10:14am
And I take great offense to the Farmall guy quote, LOL.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shieldslx13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 10:16am
And for goodness sakes I have an Allis Christmas stocking!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allisrutledge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 10:33am
I have a 210 that runs cool at any load and I think it is set at or near original specs. I'd like to have 175 horse power but it does what I ask and runs great.
Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BKarpel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 10:35am
We must have got lucky with our 1586. Its a good reliable tractor. Pulled a 9 shank disc chisel, 22 foot finish tool now mainly plants and grain cart. We did have to replace the ta,injector pump, and 2 push rods. It has 6000 hours and was worked hard before us. The owner was trying to out run a neighbor with a 2+2. I would send the injectors, pump, and turbo out to be checked out. Sound like the 220 bottom end is good but did any one do a valve job? Dont waste your time swapping fuel system. I was always told if you wearing a coat a Allis needs preheater held in.

Edited by BKarpel - 15 Jan 2019 at 10:36am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 6:03pm
My 220 and 8070 are both turned up and worked hard.Neither have heating issues.
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