Gleaner F3 walker bearings

Hello, working on my Gleaner F3. I had to have some work done to one of the straw walkers and had the wood blocks out. How do I know how tight to tighten the blocks down? I have studied my owners and service manuals and have not found any information on how tight they need to be. The only information I have found online is for John Deere. So thought I’d ask here. Thanks

If you kept them paired and positioned just knock all the grime out/off especially around the crank and bolt them up as stated. The double nut is good idea. They should have a little clearance in my opinion. My F2 broke the raddle drive shaft through the sprocket hole and I blame it on tight walker cranks. the tight walkers put a good pull on the raddle shaft. i like to be able to grab the walkers with drive unhooked and push/pull them around in circles by hand freely. You can shim with heavy paper to get clearance. Don't remember ever reading anything in book about it.

This is an area that needs to be done correctly or really bad things can happen. Whatever you do, those wood blocks, especially if they are used wood blocks and clean, should not be TIGHT on the straw walker crankshaft. They should be a little loose. It's very hard to tell someone to use a torque wrench on nuts that are lock nuts, as that just doesn't work. The nuts need to be tightened enough to squeeze the wood blocks tight enough together that they don't work loose after operating them for days on end. So, compare to the other walkers that you haven't wrenched on. There is usually some of the bolts threads exposed beyond the nuts. Make the one you are assembling match those and you will probably be very close to where you were before. Tight, but not too tight. After you have things assembled and up and running, be sure to CHECK these walker block bolts several times over the next day or two to be sure things are working as they should.