R50/R52 Rotor drive torque hub

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   Is it possible to repair/rebuild the torque sensing hub on rotor drive sheave? Pretty confident i'm starting to have some issues with mine on my early R52. When running wheat i plugged the rotor but the engine never slowed down so i didn't realize what was happening until i burnt the belt off. Anytime i've plugged the rotor in the past it would pull the engine down and stall it unless i hit the separator switch. Put on a new belt and finished wheat but plugged it a few more times without pulling the engine down, would maintain cylinder speed fine until you started pushing it a little and the rotor would stall. Went from running 3-4mph down to 1.5mph. 

It looked like the drive pulley might've been seeping a little so i did a full rebuild with new o-rings, guides, and pins and that all seems to be good now. Started beans this week and still acted the same. Cylinder speed around 750, get into a tough spot around 2.5mph and plugged the rotor without pulling the engine down. Noticed the rotor belt was a little loose as i unplugging the rotor as well. Talked to my local Gleaner dealers and they told me the hub isn't available anymore, and there isn't a parts breakdown from Agco so only option is a used one. I took their advice and pumped most of a tube of grease into the hub and ran the speed up and down, and after a few hours of cutting beans it seems to be working a lot better but still has me nervous. 

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977.3Ford Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 04 Oct 2019 Location: Dayton, Ohio Points: 115	Post Options Post Reply Quote 977.3Ford Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: R50/R52 Rotor drive torque hub Posted: 08 Oct 2026 at 9:34pm
	Is it possible to repair/rebuild the torque sensing hub on rotor drive sheave? Pretty confident i'm starting to have some issues with mine on my early R52. When running wheat i plugged the rotor but the engine never slowed down so i didn't realize what was happening until i burnt the belt off. Anytime i've plugged the rotor in the past it would pull the engine down and stall it unless i hit the separator switch. Put on a new belt and finished wheat but plugged it a few more times without pulling the engine down, would maintain cylinder speed fine until you started pushing it a little and the rotor would stall. Went from running 3-4mph down to 1.5mph. It looked like the drive pulley might've been seeping a little so i did a full rebuild with new o-rings, guides, and pins and that all seems to be good now. Started beans this week and still acted the same. Cylinder speed around 750, get into a tough spot around 2.5mph and plugged the rotor without pulling the engine down. Noticed the rotor belt was a little loose as i unplugging the rotor as well. Talked to my local Gleaner dealers and they told me the hub isn't available anymore, and there isn't a parts breakdown from Agco so only option is a used one. I took their advice and pumped most of a tube of grease into the hub and ran the speed up and down, and after a few hours of cutting beans it seems to be working a lot better but still has me nervous.
	Jimmy 1982 8050 Powershift 1982 6080 1992 R52 Gleaner

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DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 23594	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Oct 2026 at 10:03pm
	That needs to be greased DAILY without fail. If it seems to be working now, keep greasing and cycling the speed up and down fully to spread the grease around internally. If you want to disassemble completely, there will be some areas on the cams that may need to be dressed up with a grinder or a file to make them smooooth again.

darrel in ND Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8818	Post Options Post Reply Quote darrel in ND Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Oct 2026 at 6:34am
	I've had several of those apart on N series. I think these are similar. Needed a press to take them apart. Big spring in there. If you make it through harvest, I would take it apart before next harvest for sure. Definitely replace the spring. I've seen the cams break before. Either replace them, or if they're not too bad, do like doc says. Also, there is a thrust bearing in there in between two thrust washers, check them over really well. And at the very least, clean em up good, best to replace them. Could be flat spots on the little rollers, or gouges in the thrust washers Darrel

977.3Ford Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 04 Oct 2019 Location: Dayton, Ohio Points: 115	Post Options Post Reply Quote 977.3Ford Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Oct 2026 at 9:23pm
	Thought a lot of grease and cycling had it "fixed" but after plugging it twice today only running 2.2mph it for sure has an issue. Beans are pretty tough so not overly surprised. So now my question is, how does it come off? Do i just need to take the tension off of the belt and then pull the nut off the end of the gearbox shaft? Will i need to take the bolts off the sheave hub or will that stay on?
	Jimmy 1982 8050 Powershift 1982 6080 1992 R52 Gleaner

darrel in ND Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8818	Post Options Post Reply Quote darrel in ND Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 hours 25 minutes ago at 6:51am
	Please don't stone me for misinformation, as it's been over 26 years since I've done one. But, if memory serves me correctly, take the ring of bolts off of the outer sheave half on the main shaft (remove the hydraulic rotary coupler first) to get the belt basically off. Then take the outer sheave off the torque sensing hub up on the gearbox, and I believe that it can be wiggled past the elevator and off and out of the way. Now, the inner half of the sheave, I am pretty sure can be removed by taking out a ring of bolts also, which will be inside, so remove the big nut and pull the hub out far enough to make removing the ring of bolts easier. Then the sheave half should be able to get tapped off and stay hanging on the gearbox input shaft, and torque sensing hub should come off and clear the elevator. This is all a little sketchy in my memory banks, but I think that's how it all goes. If I was there looking at it, other things would probably come back to me on it. Darrel

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 23594	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 hours 17 minutes ago at 6:59am
	Been 30 years for me. Get the belt off. Start taking it apart one bolt at a time. The outer sheave slides off the shaft at an angle to clear the elevator. It will come apart !!! Just a lot of wrenching to clear the elevator. EDIT: I made a tool/plate with two short legs that after removing the big shaft nut, I would then thread on an extension to the gearbox shaft that had a six inch long length 3/4" of redi-bolt welded to it for my tool plate to slide over. I could them compress the spring can, remove the snap ring and disassemble the torque sensor one piece at a time to direct my efforts towards the area that needed attention. I don't have that tool anymore and only used it twice. But this saw to it I didn't have to tear everything apart. The belt still needs to be moved up and out of the upper sheaves so it isn't trying to spread the sheaves apart. Edited by DrAllis - 17 hours 33 minutes ago at 7:43am

AC7060IL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3803	Post Options Post Reply Quote AC7060IL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 hours 43 minutes ago at 1:33pm
	These 7 YouTube videos probably cover more than might apply to your rotor gearbox?? But this video guy does a good job of explaining/showing R52 rotor removal/repairs. If interested, heres the weblink “Gleaner R52, working on the rotor part 1.” https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D1xb5T3linw&pp=ygUTUjUyIHJvdG9yIGRyaXZlIGh1YtIHCQk3DAGHKiGM7w%3D%3D It’s Hinesfarms-Indiana who is videographer. When part 1 ends, part 2 should que, etc,,,,, part7. He takes the R52’s rotor 2speed gearbox/variable drive off & delivers it to dealer for repairs. So no in-depth on it. But figured the rest may assist some questions you may come across? Edited by AC7060IL - 11 hours 37 minutes ago at 1:39pm