Allis 7020 Cold Start Issue/Engine Health?

·         The injection pump and injectors were rebuilt within the last 90 days.

·         In swapping over the hardware from the original engine, I did pull the cam to replace the front plate…and therefore I reset the tappets.

·         The starter and batteries seem to spin the engine fast enough.

·         In trying to start it cold, I tried it at ¼ throttle and full throttle.  Neither yielded success.

·         Using the glow plug for 60 seconds as a starting aid does not help.   The intake housing does get warm during its’ use, so I think the glow plug is working.

·         If I plug it in and allow the block to get to 80F, it will start.

·         I measured compression with all injectors out using cranking speed and a cold engine. The cylinders range 200 to 210 psi across the 6 cylinders.

o   This evenness leads me to believe I don’t have one or two dead cylinders.

·         I measured compression after letting the tractor get up to a running temperature of 140F.  I then pulled #6 injector, installed compression tester and then restarted it running at idle (750-800 rpm).  This yielded a compression of 350 psi.

o   This above test matches what I found in a 185 Service Manual…it states under similar circumstances, a healthy psi is 500.  My 7020 Service Manual offers no criteria for a compression test.   I noted from the parts book that the piston from a 185 to a 7020 is a different part number so I don’t know if I can use the 185 spec.

·         When running, the engine has near zero blow by out of the valve cover.   This makes me believe the engine isn’t shot.  Also, I can run it down the road in high gear and it seems to have plenty of power.  I wish I had access to a dyno to measure actual horsepower.

What are people’s thoughts on what my issue is?   Has anyone ran a compression test on a healthy 649/301 turbocharged engine?

Thanks to each of you for the input!

·         How did it start cold when in a 50-degree F shop before you had injectors and injection pump gone thru?

o   It started just as poorly.  In addition, if I increased throttle it took 10-15 seconds to increase and after the shutoff was pulled, it would take 10 minutes before it would start again.  It acted like the shutoff was stuck off and eventually freed itself to allow fuel flow again.

o   More background…the fuel had gone skunky.   Therefore, I had the injectors and pump overhauled.   Also, I spent endless hours pulling the tank to clean it, replaced hoses, etc

o   NOTE: THE PUMP I AM USING IS FROM THE ORIGINAL 7020 ENGINE WHILE THE INJECTORS ARE FROM THE M2 ENGINE.

o   Here is the note from the diesel shop from their teardown:     We checked the injectors, they were between 3500-3700 PSI and sticky, We dismantled and cleaned them, all but 2 worked good when we adjusted them.  We had to order 2 new nozzle valves from Denver. The injection pump was
sticky inside as well, the fuel setting was turned up excessively ,we
adjusted it back down closer to spec. but have not got to the point of
calibrating it yet.

·         Set your pump timing at 16 degrees BTDC and leave it there.     

o   I have changed this from 18 BTDC to 16.   It acts approximately the same.

·         Cranking compression with a known good compression tester should be over 300 PSI with all injectors removed. Running on one cylinder at 700 RPM should yield you 400 psi or a little better.  So, you either have a real problem or you have a compression tester that isn't giving you correct numbers.       

o   My compression tester is from Vevor (cheap I know but what I can afford as this is a hobby).

·         What brand starter does it have?

o   I do have the gear reduction starter installed already (Probably Chinese).   It looks like this one:  Gear Reduction Starter fits Allis Chalmers models 180-7020 tractors | eBay   I got it from Steve Fisher near New Ulm, MN

o   When trying to start it, I put my Schumacher Charger on full boost and seems to me that it spins the engine well.  Having said that, my batteries are probably over 5 years old.

o   My battery cables are all upsized and grounds have been checked. 

o   This engine came out of a combine and all it had was either start.  I changed it to the 7020-glow plug preheater but maybe I should pull that and put either start on it.

·         I’ve attached a picture of the injection pump below.

·         Does it 'smoke' when turning over?

o   Yes, I am getting white smoke as it tries to start.  And I can hear it trying to fire here and there.

·         When it does start, does it run well? 

o   Yes, it seems to run good once running.  It has pretty clean exhaust after 5 mins or so.   There is no problem moving the tractor in high gear down the road.