D19 turbo history

My old '64 D19D is still going strong. Let it warm up and cool down before and after work, never had a problem, and I pull it hard from time to time. 

DiyDave wrote: m16ty wrote: My old '64 D19D is still going strong. Let it warm up and cool down before and after work, never had a problem, and I pull it hard from time to time.  The main problem we have with the engine is starting, but if you have good batteries and manifold heater it will start, even below freezing. I've also noticed that a block heater doesn't seem to help much at all, and I think it's because you don't get enough heat up into the head to the energy cells.  The rest of the tractor seems bulletproof. PS doesn't compare to hydrostatic but it's adequate. Not much GPM with the hyd, but it's really not a problem unless you have a loader.  I have access to a parts 185 with a good engine. If the 262 ever gives me trouble, I may try to shoehorn the 2800 engine in there. If the tractor was to have a 2800 engine, I think I'd rather have it over a 185. I like the manual PD, works just as well as the hyd PD, and less complicated (less to go wrong and when it does it's cheaper to fix). Wouldn't be too hard to convert steering to hydrostatic, I've got a parts F2 that could be a donor for that. What kinda heater din you use.  I used a external tank type, and it would start w/o the air heater, on the coldest day, w/ 45 mins of preheating.  A properly heated D-19 would have 4-5 cats nappin on the hood...

Sometime in last 6-8 months,someone posted pics of 262 with tank heater. Pulled out of right side middle of block and returned up and over to thermostat hsg.

The first 19's had the cams replaced as the though was to keep the intake open longer to better charge the cylinder - only problem was hard cranking - so they changed them out according to Bruce Derrington  an old Ac service mgr. and the still had starting issues. Many D19 17's had the transfer pumps changed out for the later style vane pumps with springs rather than the old carbon blades.  Gave better psi on the transfer pump at lower cranking speed. 

What I found as far as starting is concerned, is you need cranking speed. I bought my D19D from a member on here and when I went to pick it up it was like 10 degrees that morning. It had (2) 12 volt batteries in it. One was shot and the other was half assed when it was fully charged and they were hooked together with lawnmower battery cable. When I hit the key I think it made 1/2 a revolution. Guy hooked on to it with his truck and towed me out on the street in front of his house which is paved. When I got it out on the pavement I had it in gear and I eased the hand clutch back into low range. Once engaged it didnt move 10 feet and it was running. 

Edited by DonDittmar - 12 Jul 2019 at 11:19am

I had no idea you could get close to 100 hp out of a diesel D19. I thought the 262 was pretty much maxed out in stock form.

We just built a D19 diesel .   It had about 65 hp and lots of smoke. We advanced the timing and got it to 80 hp -but it would not crank. We checked all on the pump as to advance and checked injectors which were not perfect but better than most running . It was a balance between HP and timing. We replaced the old carbon blade rear transfer pump  with the late style system (and got a memory refresher on pump rotation cam ring) and reset the advance trimmer (late style) and it helped but still no where close to 100 hp with the torque screw that had been backed out.   Those indirect inj heads with a stock turbo just will not go much over that 70 hp line with acceptable smoke levels...  Nebraska test was 66 hp from memory... 

If you look, in this video, you can see the lanova pre-cumbustion chambers, opposite the injectors, just below the air intake manifold. Injector sprays toward the cup, as the intake air charge is being compressed.  On these engines timing of everything is critical, and they have a history of camshaft problems...

How is running an engine without coolant good for it?

CTuckerNWIL wrote: Lonn wrote: I would think it would be hard to get 100 hp out of an unmodified 185 just by turn the fuel up. What he said was, "he put a turbo on it cranked it up"

my eyes completely missed it

I’ve been poking around the internet trying to gain more insights about the Buda Lanova diesels & came across this 2019 post.
Did these “indirect” pre combustion chamber, fuel cell, designs use a cheap to build, less pressurized, stream-type injection nozzle & injection pump system?? It seems that their inherent cracked head issues probably stemmed from the added “hot fuel cell” located inside the head?
This attached video talks about a Buda 317cu in 5.2L that injects fuel horizontally? from its exhaust side of head, over the top of pistons, to a fuel cell located on its opposite side. Guy also says pistons protrude about a 1/2” inch above the block while running?
Do the D17s 230 & D19s 262 pistons protrude also? If so, then a piston cavity? located in the head directly above piston might also transfer more heat to head during ignition cycles?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rnGMfCVDnPI&pp=ygUSQnVkYSBsYW5vdmEgZGllc3Js

WD45/D-17/D-19 diesel pistons are basically flush with the top of the block at TDC. Pistons were flat top except for those that required a valve relief pocket for the intake valve and it wasn't deep at all. Injectors were set at around 2,000 psi and the 17 and 19 had a RoosaMaster injection pump. Cracks always occurred at the energy cell opening to the surface of the head. Some cracks around the nozzle tip too. That is why later engines had a smaller diameter nozzle tip for more "meat" in the cylinder head at that area. Nozzles shot fuel horizontally across the top of the piston into the energy cell to start the burn. Oliver, J.I. Case and Minnie Moe used the same thing but had far better luck the A-C did.

We recently rebuilt a D19. New nozzles. Cleaned the cells, new overhaul kit - the customer had an oem kit for years for it waiting to be put in. One thing overlooked on these heads are the head bolts are too long IF the head has been shaved to level it. The thread holes must be cleaned with a bottoming tap and a hardened washer used under the head bolts - many times the head bolt(s) will torque out -and not clamp the head.  Anyway we dyno'd the engine- it only had about 60 HP. We adjusted the timing and got about 75 HP. The boost was only about 8 pounds. When we shut it off and it cooled - it would not crank. We had to retard the timing. This pump was rebuilt and had the blade type transfer update over the old carbon blade transfer pump. We backed out the torque screw and got more smoke, not a measurable increase in boost, but only a tad more HP . We then increased the timing again and got maybe a couple extra hp. The reason for this epistle is these engines just were limited by the indirect injection and probably by the low boost. The turbo used was the same for the 2900 at 301 cubes and a 2200 rpm rated load - then about 14# was it.  We pulled a D17 back in the early 70's. A 4 roller .31 pump with mechanical transfer pump -  Lunati Cam - small Switzer turbo,  the timing had to be set so far   advanced it always had to be started with ether. Head cut for steel rings.  It would run 7th gear with 23.1-26's in the 5000# class. We had no idea the hp - not as much as one thought by the smoke it put out. It was called the Zipper Special - for obvious reasons . The driver/now owner had the idea to put another turbo in - it met its demise at Union City Tn. The bottom charger broke between the exhaust housing and the center section sending both chargers up and out blowing off both side sheets, hood center strap and radiator and covering Eddie with black oil. At least it went out with a 'blaze' of Glory at about 150'.  It went straight to Sikeston, Mo.