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1951 WD |
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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I always use distilled water when mixing antifreeze. Back in FFA we restored a JD A that looked like it must have had pond water dumped inside of it. Like you pointed out, distilled is so cheap that there's no reason not to keep some on hand. This tractor wasn't too bad inside the cooling system. I just thought all that casting flash inside was odd.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Dusty MI
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Charlotte, Mi Points: 5053 |
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Last I knew distilled water was about $i.00 a gallon so I used that along with antifreeze, water in this area has lime and iron in it.
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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I've been cleaning up the head. Has anyone seen this much flash inside the water passages on your heads? It surprised me. I had a holdup with the old Sioux seat grinder when I started on the seats. The bearings in all of the stone holders were done for, so I had to order replacement bearings and wait on them. Should be good to go again now. I'm still learning how to do seats. I've only done one small engine and those seats were just in the cast iron of the cylinder. Worst case I guess I have to take the head in to have a seat replaced if I mess one up or can't clean it up with enough meat left in it. |
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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jvin248
Silver Level Joined: 17 Jan 2022 Location: Detroit Points: 269 |
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. You might try spraying the rubber part after installation with paint to protect against UV. Imperfect protection, but better than none. Grease on the inside may also protect against ozone creaking too. .
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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I've been chipping away at the starter between other projects and got it buttoned up last weekend - mostly needed new brushes and some commutator cleanup. I replaced the bushings as well although they weren't terrible.
Getting the new retaining washer into the gear shift lever stumped me for a few minutes before I realized that the outer edge of the old washer was still stuck in there. I wrongly assumed the whole thing was missing or rusted away when I was able to pull the shift lever right out of the tower. Then the new one went in easily. Also, the gear shift boot I bought new from AGCO a year or so ago, and had stored out of sunlight in my shop, has a crack starting in it already. Seems like there is no good source for these, sadly. Hopefully this tractor won't be sitting outside but you never know when you'll get rained on. I used a little tire bead lube on the shifter and the boot was pretty easy to install.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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Chris, I remember you saying in your thread that you used a torch. I finally got a stick welder and a drill press this year... Torch and bench grinder are next on the list. I don't quite have a full service shop here yet!
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8168 |
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John,
Really glad your making progress on the old WD! Frame looks way better. Yea I had one with a good bend in it too. Plus a bent rear lift arm. Some folks can bust a sledge. A little heat on that might have brought it along quicker? Frame rails going on. Nice to get things back together! Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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This has to be it. Someone must have tightened binders or whatever way too much when tying down to a trailer. Hadn't thought of that but that's the only thing that makes sense since it was bent downwards. Thanks!
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11572 |
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Looks like it straightened out okay. Good as new! Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19627 |
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When you slide the grab hook end of a chain under there, you can get that.
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IBWD MIke
Orange Level Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 3493 |
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I don't know how people, (always the previous owner) bend stuff like that! Seen many things I thought were indestructible bent up pretty good. Couple of WD lift arms come to mind, how do you bend those?!
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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I was able to get green sleeve retainer locally so I ended up using that. Says it's good for up to .007" which ought to be in this case.
I'm getting ready to put the LH frame rail back on. Anyone know how these get bent up like this, just behind the front pedestal on the bottom side? Both frame rails of this tractor were like this. I think sugarmaker had a tractor like this in one of his threads, too. Didn't have high hopes I'd be able to do much but whomping on it with a 3 lb. hammer actually does work. I left some dents but those will only be visible from underneath. Good enough for a working tractor.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22811 |
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680 loctite (Green) is a cylindrical part bonding agent, that can lock up to a .015 gap.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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Thanks Mike. I was looking at either that or the 680 so good to hear a vote in that direction. To be fair I can't imagine which compound matters too much for this shaft. It's not like it's a PTO shaft or something that's spinning really fast with a load. I was probably overthinking it.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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IBWD MIke
Orange Level Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 3493 |
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wjohn, loctite has a product they call 'quick metal', it's tailor made for that kind of situation.
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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I've been putting the front end back together - new bearings and seals were in order. I realized that the part number for the seal assembly must point the AGCO guys to the individual retainer and cork seal, and I only got one of each when I ordered the complete seal PN, so I need to get a cork seal. I was able to save both of my retainers so I have one extra new retainer now. The bearing cone I am pointing to in the pic below can spin on the shaft. The raised lines meant to lock the bearing to the shaft must have worn down due to to old bearing rollers being crudded up. Looks like I could either peen the shaft to make some raised areas to grip the inside of the bearing, and/or use the right Loctite? |
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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I got the new front tires mounted today. Those 24" spoons have proven to be a good investment. These Carlisles were pretty easy to mount. |
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8168 |
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John,
Those front rims are going to look real good on the WD, glad your back on it too! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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I finally wired my shop over the last month or so and got back on the WD. I've been doing weld/grind/repeat work on the front wheels on and off, and after today I'm calling them good enough. I went ahead and primed and painted the inside with some Rustoleum generic AC orange and maybe that will keep the rust at bay for a few years. These rims will never look nice anyways with the repairs that they needed but they should be functional.
Hope to have new front tires next week.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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Thanks! I'll be a lot happier when it looks like a tractor again, ha.
I got a chance to put the new to me drill press to work on the thermostat housing casting. Well, mine had no thermostat, so call it whatever you want... I'm adding a thermostat to mine like the later tractors had. All three bolts broke off. I understand from reading on here that this is pretty common. Two were easy but one is under the inlet and I had a fun time trying to grip the casting well enough to hold it in alignment with the chuck. I did lose some threads at the end of that hole when I was drilling out the broken bolts, but I think there are still enough left to hold. Most things won't be so weird shaped and will be easier to clamp down to the table. For sure this was way better than using a hand drill like I had been doing. |
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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JSHIVERS
Bronze Level Joined: 24 Jun 2021 Location: Bloomington,IN Points: 54 |
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I just learned a heck of a lot about WD and WD 45's today! Thanks Gents. Cool tractor BTW.
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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Thanks guys! We hit 80 this week... Going to get back down into the 20s for lows next week, so I can't plant anything, but I can get tomatoes and peppers started, get the Gravely ready for soilworking, put up the deer fence, etc.
I need to finish cleaning up the front wheels and get some tires ordered for this tractor, too.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8168 |
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john,
Looks like things are going back together! Gardening?? We are in the midst of maple syrup season, gardening looks like a long way off! Thanks for the update. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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IBWD MIke
Orange Level Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 3493 |
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Good to see you're making progress, keep at it.
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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So I have been chipping away at this but I haven't made a ton of progress. I tore out a prefab fireplace and installed a wood stove at the end of summer, and have been doing a lot of fence work since for the most part the weather has been dry and warm enough. I ordered some steering shaft bearings and a few other small parts from my AGCO dealer the other day and figured I was overdue for an update.
I got a refurbished steering shaft support, weld-on PTO shaft coupling, and a good used WD hand clutch from some forum members. Got the hand clutch installed. Then I decided to go ahead and replace the bearings in the steering gearbox casting for the horizontal shaft. I managed to get the race in the bolt-on cap out with an appropriately sized cats-paw pry bar and a lot of tapping back and forth. AGCO had the best prices on bearings. Gardening season is almost here but hopefully I can keep some priority on the WD and get it buttoned up this year. |
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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IBWD MIke
Orange Level Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 3493 |
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John, some of the pins/holes were pretty bad on a couple of my tractors. What I did was find some drill rod 1/32" oversize. I believe 3/8" is stock so 13/32". I then reamed the holes in assembly, cut pins the right length and mushroomed the ends. This really helped with the slop. If they ever have to come apart, just file off the mushroom and make a new pin if necessary.
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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Thanks Mike! I had a heck of a time getting the pins out. I vividly remember lying under the tractor drilling out the front one, and then I was able to drive out the rear one with a hammer and punch. Thankfully the holes in the shafts and yokes are in good shape. I think I've seen guys on here use roll pins, so my plan is to take the yokes with me to a hardware store and find the right size of roll pins. I know I'll still have a small amount of slop in the steering after all of this but between this, building up the worn shafts, replacing support bushings, and that bottom bearing in the front end, it's going to be way better than it was. Most of the slop will probably be what's in the sector gear.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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IBWD MIke
Orange Level Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 3493 |
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You're making some big improvements in that old girl! Those U-joints are a pain to change but make a huge difference. How were the pins/holes in shafts? New brushes should make a huge difference too.
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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I also began replacing bushings and brushes in the starter. The starter would intermittently not work back when the tractor was still together. Hopefully those 2 very worn brushes (~ 1/2 the length of a new one?) were the main issue.
I found a valve guide driver that fit the bushings very well and used that for driving them in. Unfortunately it was a little too large of diameter on the shoulder above, so I wound up using a socket in my press to push them out. They weren't budging with a pilot bearing removal tool.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1817 |
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Chris, I was very wrong about mine not needing much sanding. My first mistake was starting out with 220 grit... I wasted a lot of time before breaking out the 100 and that was definitely the way to go. Then I finished up with with the 220 and there is only some minor pitting visible. I put the pump back together the other day and did note that smaller screw - also mentioned in the service manual.
I tackled the steering shaft u-joint today. I may just not be used to these but it was the most difficult to service u-joint I've ever done. Once I figured it out and cut a piece of 1" pipe to press over the top of the caps, back and forth, and then let some needle rollers fall in to help push the caps out even more, it wasn't too bad. The new u-joint has no play in it and will be a big improvement. There is just barely clearance for the grease zerk. I wonder if I will be able to get a grease gun on it once everything's put back together. |
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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