My First Tractor! D17... But which series?

Thank you Brian!

I went this morning and pulled the pump off the tractor. H39AA2B is the one I have.

Turns out this pump was configured to run Clockwise, but is able to be reversed.

Took the boys for a short snowmobile ride after reassembly


Then went back to the tractor to try my luck... Success!

I'm hopeful to bring it home tomorrow and will try to get some video and pictures in case anyone else wants some ideas or is thinking about giving this a go :)

Edited by Strokendiesel002 - 30 Jan 2021 at 11:35pm

Say, would anyone happen to know the brand or model number of the hydraulic pump that was used on the front?

Allis-Chalmers power steering for a D-17 requires a lot more parts than just a pump. You'll need a control valve, power steering hydraulic cylinder and all the lines to connect everything. This front pump for a loader could be used to do the power steering if you adapted a priority valve  somewhere that would direct 4 or more GPM to the power steering first and then the rest would go to the loader valve. A Char-Lynn brand add-on power steering torque generator could also use this front pump/priority valve arrangement.

Evening!

More progress on the live hydraulics!

I pulled the shroud and radiator out, cleaned out the 7/16 NC threaded holes in the pulley and bolted up the adapter recommend earlier in the thread. I then slid the 3/4" shaft through the bolster only to find that it doesn't line up. As this ole girl is 62 years old and I'm probably not the first to have split her I suppose I shouldn't be surprised. It was really close, but no dice. I thought about blocking everything up and trying to raise the engine a hair, but remembered a post or two mentioning that the early bolsters weren't big enough for even the 3/4" shafts. So I got out the right angle whizzer and a couple mess makers and went to town!

Now, the threaded holes in the bolster are 1/2"-13 for anyone wondering. After cleaning them I found I can run a bolt in 1". I'm using love joy couplers and my plate is 3/8" thick. Holding everything in place it looks like my spacers need to be 3.9" so I'll probably shoot for 4". I believe I mentioned earlier that the 1/2" bolts that secure the bracket to pedestal will interfere with the pump. It was suggested that I use flat head bolts to avoided interference, so I order 5" long flat heads and they should be showing up in a couple days! Just need to get a changed cut into the plate now and cut down the bar stock I bought for the spacers!

You know, that brings back a lot of GREAT MEMORIES!  The 58 D-17 was one of the last tractors I sold.  Really a great machine.  

Evening!

I'm getting closer to having a functional FEL!

So, a friend make me up the mounting plate and ordered some 1"OD .0.5" ID tubing and am waiting on a shaft and coupler for the flywheel.

I test fit the pump in the bracket tonight and I suddenly realized what others were talking about with the 1/2" bolster bolts and pump interfering.

Pics:


I'm thinking that it'd be acceptable to shorten up the bolster to bracket spacers by say 1/2" and then place 1/2" spacers between the bracket and pump...

Thoughts?

Correct clay, the person I bought from said they got bent so he replaced them and threw away the originals unfortunately

Ahh that loader looks like it came with the tractor! Nice addition to the family! You did a great job getting this tractor operational again and now that loader will help around the farm too.

Thanks fellas!

Nice picture ...lucky boys....good father

Thanks!

Well, agco parts apparently no longer provides the parts diagrams they did a few months ago. I do have a parts book for 170/175 on loan from a friend, but it just lists 2 washers and a cotter pin. Guess maybe my housing is damaged? Really open to opinions at this point.

Thanks for looking!

She's Alive!

I wound up welding the tank after a sorry attempt to solder it. Took about 3 hours chasing holes. Not the prettiest work I've ever done, but it's no leaking!

I actually put the engine back in on May 5th, and went back a week or two later to finish it, but she wouldn't start. Summer came in full swing at that point, and I just let it be. I'd been theorizing over what was wrong and came to the realization that I never truly clocked the rotor. After reading the manual and many threads, I went back out and within 20 minutes she was alive! I set the radiator in place, filled with water and put on the 3 good hose clamps I had (need 1 new one). I was planning on changing all the hydraulic fluid out before driving it, but I couldn't help myself. I had to know if it would even remotely operate, and it actually did pretty good! I wasn't quite aggressive enough with the P.D. and thought it was slipping out of "hi" and "low" when I pushed a little further and she snapped into place! So I then pulled a little further where she again snapped into low! What an awesome feeling!

I do need to figure out the clutch spring- there wasn't one so I ordered one up. There were 2 washers and a cotter key on the shaft. I am assuming that I need to order a special piece that goes to the housing. Will check parts diagram, but suggestions welcome!

first start!

first drive!





Edited by Strokendiesel002 - 01 Aug 2019 at 3:22pm

Well between Friday and Sunday I got the new sleeves Pistons rebuilt head and 7 of the 8 pushrods installed. my uncle came over to help with prepping the crank is that it was his specialty for many years, well machining them was actually his specialty.

Mama and the boys got home Saturday afternoon but Sunday afternoon we loaded up the almost completed engine and brought it back over to my uncle's which is where the tractor is.

I'm hoping to finish it up on this coming Saturday!

Put couple bolts with flat washers in place of the head bolts to hold the sleeves down cuz if you do break one of them loose and you've moved the sleeve a little bit you'll be back in for a water leak nevermind I didn't see page 2

Edited by bradley6874 - 25 Apr 2019 at 2:42pm