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Is a cool running powerful 426 Possible?

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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 Nov 2009
Location: Hebron, ND
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 9:15pm
I have 5 of the 426's and don't have any of the issue's that you described. Darrel
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WF owner View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 8:41pm
These tractors run in dust, pollen and a lot of other stuff. They get plugged up quickly!
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rw View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 8:17pm
My 7060 won 't go over 180 no matter the load or outside temp if radiator core has been cleaned of debris and the foam kit around the radiator is in very good shape. We pulled a 6 bottom moldboard plow or a big disk (I think 24 feet) that loaded it pretty heavy. If either of those were not right it would run up to between 180 and 210 with less load than that even on 40 or 50 degree days. The radiator would stay cleaner if the foam kit was good. It was not turned up to my knowledge and I think that helps on overheating. I say the cooling system on those tractors is big enough and good enough. It do not really know what else to compare it to except my 424 ih utility tractor that does about the same if the core gets clogged up with grass seed bushogging. no foam to fail on it.
Neighbor has a nice 7080 that always ran hot till he redid the foam He was amazed that he could work it hard as he wanted and no overheating.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote victoryallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 7:36pm
Betting life won’t be any better running red.   Like Doc said the rads maybe dirtier than they appear.
8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 7:07pm
The guy is a farmall guy..lets get down to brass frickin tacks. Buy the IH .

Edited by oldorangeiron - 15 Jan 2019 at 5:42am
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DougG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 6:55pm
Sounds like very poor mantaniace program to me, little things that don't take much time can make a big differerce
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 6:19pm

1. Engines run hot because the heat it takes to make power is not taken away -thermal rejection - by the cooling system - seems simple  but the tractors were all designed to run around 205 degrees  under full load for long periods of time.  What causes most heating issues is exactly what the Dr. sez dirty clogged radiators. IF you think yours is clean remove the shroud and coolers in front and take a good look. If you can't see through the radiator fins they are clogged - if they are clogged only 10 per cent then the temp will probably be 220 degrees or hot on the gauge.  You can tell if the coolant is flowing by running til the thermostats open and looking into the fill neck have some one rev from idle to full throttle - the coolant will go down immediately 2 to 3 inches.  IF not it is corroded inside and must be rodded out.  And I assure you they do not all run hot - I have 5 on the farm.  One should not pull any old diesel designed with a rated load of 2200-2500 rpm   loaded,  under 2000 RPM - the rod brg load on old engines gets really high.   Also  each added hp due to fuel increase demands more coolant capacity. As to the 220 it will run fine at 135 hp... it will not run cool in hot weather at 160- 200 hp...   on my 210 we installed a fan with more blades - worked great except as pointed out the belts slipped.  I installed a flat idler on the RH side to push the belts in and 'wrap' the water pump pulley  for more grip - my grooves are worn badly.  Works great   at a higher hp setting.  Finally if you insist on running less than 2000 rpm get a turbo matched for that - like a .8 A/R ratio exhaust housing  instead of the .96 that is std  or get a waste gated turbo unit...   BTY  Plowing is a dirty word in Ky where No-til was born and perfected.... and if you do park the old AC's we would be glad to remove them to avoid the clutter and mowing around them issue.

When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 5:27pm
That's a whole bunch of complaints all in one paragraph and kind of vague. "They all run hot"?...…"They won't start"?...."They won't create boost"????…… " They have NO power under 2,000 RPM and he's just going to park them and buy a 1586.  I won't even address the remaining complaints.  #1. Tractors that are 35+ years old running hot can sure be a lot of things. Like a dirty radiator inside and outside. Lack of foam around the entire radiator so air has to be directed thru the radiator core. New thermostats. Slipping fan belts and worn pulleys. (that 220 has to have really TIGHT fan belts or I know they will slip at full throttle). And on a 7000 series there is always a good possibility the temp gauge is reading high making you think it's hot when it isn't. Now if you want to argue about that, go right ahead cause I've changed out dozens of temp gauges and senders just for that complaint. I've also been down the road of "my radiator isn't dirty" and after I spend 3 hrs washing it out then it's clean thru the core where the air must go. #2. They won't start??  You must mean they start with difficulty??  Again 35 yr old starters and cables and on and on and on. You may as well buy the Farmall because on a 10 degree day I'm sure it will pop right off easy. That's their nature and they are 17 to 1 compression ratio.  Funny a guy who lives in Kentucky doesn't know what cold even is when it comes to cold starting. There are a lot of Customers who live way farther north of you that know how to get an AC started when they need it. #3. They won't create boost?? Really like ZERO boost ?? That 7080 must make some boost over 2,000 RPM and 18 psi would be a minimum under full load.  Your 220 should make probably 12 to 14 psi boost at full load depending on what turbo is on it. I would have installed a 7000 series turbo if it was recently replaced. If you have performance issues like this, they need to be addressed and not whine about "no boost".  #4. They have no power under 2,000 RPM. Well, a well tuned 220-7030 thru 7060 turbo spool up point is 1700 RPM. Maybe the advance on your injection pump is advancing too soon? The 7080 is a little more like 2,000 RPM and that would be normal. You really don't want to lug these engine below those numbers anyway, as it places the bottom end of the engine under much stress and strain. The 7000 series and up all have a "wet" clutch and that it what it is made for.  That wonderful Farmall has an old technology dry clutch. Good luck abusing it !!   I'm really leaning towards telling you to get the Farmall.  I can see your complaints will never be satisfied.
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 5:20pm
Never heard them called "Harvey hand grenades" before. 

I won't be much help, but I do have a story. From my limited experience with the 426, they do run on the warm side, even with the radiator clean. My uncle told me a story about how he attended a "combine school" put on by the local A-C dealer after his dad bought a Gleaner L3 (426 engine). The guys at the dealer told them Allis was getting complaints from worried farmers because the temp gauge needle resided on the line between green and red, so on later models they just moved the border between green and red further to the right. 
I have noticed occasionally on the L3 the gauge will dip into the red momentarily, then go back into the green. Radiator is good and clean. However...it does start easily and builds boost when needed, which is the opposite of what you've been experiencing. Perhaps the smarter A-C guys like the Dr. will chime in...
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Tracy Martin TN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 5:16pm
Sorry to hear of your dad's passing. Sounds like my kind of guy. The 301 is a great engine, sounds great running day or night. I think the 426 was a good engine , but like anything it had it's limits. Several things cause one to run hot, loose fan belts, worn pulleys, impeller worn, timing off, missing foam around letting fan lose suction, stopped up radiator. Just to name a few. I would start trying to eliminate what is causing it. If your brother wants to go red, I would wonder if he really was kin! LOL HTH Tracy
No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shieldslx13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 4:02pm
anyone????????????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shieldslx13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 1:37pm
Good afternoon guys.  In September my dad passed and left me his 220 allis. I have  a small hobby farm (15 acres) and I was thinking of buying a 6 16 plow to grow.  I grew up on his 1000 acre farm ( that my brother still farms) and spent many a year clipping with the tractor which is why I assume he has given it to me.  I LOVE Allis and he had as follows  220, 7080, 7060, 200, 190xt 7000.  D21 he sold before he got his 220.  Without a doubt the 301 Allis is one of the finest diesels ever created. The 426 however....My brother has all but given up on them.  If I cant figure out why they all run hot, wont start, wont create boost, and have NO power under 2000 rpm he is just going to park them and buy a 1586 IH.  The 220 has new turbo, sleeve kit, cam, rebuilt pump and injectors pop tested at 3k. Everyone says always acts like I'm crazy, but I can rebuild the 301 and make it sing.  The 7080 is a monster when it is above 2200 rpm, under that and it will barely move itself.  My brother is contemplated putting compound turbos on it to make power to lug but as some have told him, best not to do anything to the "Harvey hand grenades" Really like to use my 220 and for him not to go to the red side... but outlook is not good.
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