A-C 175 Lift Cylinder Removal

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   Hi everyone.
Well, as I mentioned in my last thread, I got the 175 up and running (remanned injector pump & injectors.) and actually used it for a weekend. That is until I noticed one of the rear lift cylinders had a pretty good leak around the rear seal.  So I got a seal kit, and am trying to remove said cylinder... and finding that to be a problem. The rear was a simple spring clip on the clevis pin. However the front... well the front seems to be a hair pin through the clevis pin?

Also.. The loop of that hair pin is broken off. The pin itself seems to be all sorts of rusted in place. I was wondering what you all would suggest I do to push it out. I was thinking of heating the hell out of it and try to find a punch with that correct dimensions and pound it through?

Is the hole on the bottom of the cast piece (see picture) where the pin would come out? Should I drive it from the top or the bottom?

Thanks again for looking at this post. You guys saved me some serious money with your advice about the injector pump (my labor is a lot cheaper than the local repair shops!)

-matt in CT

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meta53 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 31 Aug 2015 Location: Connecticut Points: 13	Post Options Post Reply Quote meta53 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: A-C 175 Lift Cylinder Removal Posted: 10 Oct 2015 at 5:21pm
	Hi everyone. Well, as I mentioned in my last thread, I got the 175 up and running (remanned injector pump & injectors.) and actually used it for a weekend. That is until I noticed one of the rear lift cylinders had a pretty good leak around the rear seal. So I got a seal kit, and am trying to remove said cylinder... and finding that to be a problem. The rear was a simple spring clip on the clevis pin. However the front... well the front seems to be a hair pin through the clevis pin? Also.. The loop of that hair pin is broken off. The pin itself seems to be all sorts of rusted in place. I was wondering what you all would suggest I do to push it out. I was thinking of heating the hell out of it and try to find a punch with that correct dimensions and pound it through? Is the hole on the bottom of the cast piece (see picture) where the pin would come out? Should I drive it from the top or the bottom? Thanks again for looking at this post. You guys saved me some serious money with your advice about the injector pump (my labor is a lot cheaper than the local repair shops!) -matt in CT

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NC Bruce Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: Mill Spring, NC Points: 221	Post Options Post Reply Quote NC Bruce Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Oct 2015 at 5:40pm
	Matt I always drove mine from bottom towards top. Usually had the complete pin to snap in from the top.... Be careful, Don't let it fall on you... thanx, Bruce

SHAMELESS Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: EAST NE Points: 29486	Post Options Post Reply Quote SHAMELESS Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Oct 2015 at 4:19am
	wonder if you could drill it out?

meta53 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 31 Aug 2015 Location: Connecticut Points: 13	Post Options Post Reply Quote meta53 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Oct 2015 at 12:21pm
	Well spent a good portion of the day on this. THAT SOB is in there. Like really in the. Even with heat it was a no go. Not to mention from the top down the axle assembly is sort of in the way, and from the bottom the hydraulic return line is in the way. Yay. I am just going to drill it out I think. I need a long metal bit to do so, so looking at Amazon now. To get the tractor moving, I am probably just going to cap off that line, and ignore it until spring if drilling doesn't work!

Eldon (WA) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765	Post Options Post Reply Quote Eldon (WA) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Oct 2015 at 9:13pm
	Can you rotate the cylinder pin with a pair of vice grips? That is the first thing. I usually drive a chisel between the inside of the pin and the casting, then take a socket that fits over the pin and tap on the cylinder ears to drive the cylinder in. Don't get too aggressive with the pounding or you can break an ear off the cylinder. If you get the cylinder to slide on the pin, drive the chisel in to force the pin back out. Repeat until you can turn the pin. After you get the pin to turn, you can get a better angle to drive the broken pin out....rotate 180 degrees if needed. You might need to remove the hydraulic lines to get better access.
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MACK Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664	Post Options Post Reply Quote MACK Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Oct 2015 at 9:43pm
	Repair it in the tractor. MACK

clays37ac Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 22 Nov 2012 Location: ohio Points: 102	Post Options Post Reply Quote clays37ac Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Oct 2015 at 9:52pm
	I had to burn the pins out of my cylinders with a torch. I used Kimball Midwest cool gel spray. To keep the heat away from the rest of the cylinder. After you finish I recommend using anti sieze generously.

meta53 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 31 Aug 2015 Location: Connecticut Points: 13	Post Options Post Reply Quote meta53 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Oct 2015 at 8:56am
	Mack, can't repair it in the tractor because their is a clip inside the cylinder holding the ram in, which you can only access through the inlet port, which, you seriously can't get to without removing the cylinder :(

clays37ac Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 22 Nov 2012 Location: ohio Points: 102	Post Options Post Reply Quote clays37ac Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Oct 2015 at 9:00am
	Yes the cylinder has to be on the workbench

meta53 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 31 Aug 2015 Location: Connecticut Points: 13	Post Options Post Reply Quote meta53 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Oct 2015 at 11:43am
	Well, I can't get it drilled out, because it seems like the hair pin is hardened steel, inside the hardened steel clevis pin. I can't drive it out because it is behaving like it is welded. Man I am ready to cut the whole business out with an oxy torch and scrap the damn tractor. So frustrated! Perhaps I can burn just the hairpin out?

Eldon (WA) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765	Post Options Post Reply Quote Eldon (WA) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Oct 2015 at 11:55am
	Like I said, first get the pin to rotate....then use a long punch to knock out the spring pin....if it is hard, it should break off fairly easy flush to the pin, which helps. If it doesn't want to come out one way, rotate the pin 180 and try the other side. If you want to torch off the bracket, I have a couple laying around here.
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meta53 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 31 Aug 2015 Location: Connecticut Points: 13	Post Options Post Reply Quote meta53 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Oct 2015 at 2:07pm
	I need to buy better punches this evening/week and I will absolutely be doing what you just recommended. I appreciate all the advice in this thread! :)

meta53 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 31 Aug 2015 Location: Connecticut Points: 13	Post Options Post Reply Quote meta53 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Feb 2017 at 5:02pm
	So. I figured I would check back in and leave some progress notes in case anyone runs into this problem. 1. If you take off the foot rest you will find that the casting that the main pin resides in has a front window, where you can get a much better look at the main pin & hairpin. 2. If you drive a chisel back and forth be very careful not to break off a tab! Which, of course I did. I plan on bringing it to my local machinist/fab shop to get a new ear attached. 3. Once you get the cylinder off the retaining ring is easily accessible from the hydraulic inlet port. Use a probe/screwdriver to push ring into the low area next to it. And then you can slide the rod out easily. 4. There are 2 seals, the end wiper seal, and one immediately to the inside of that. On this cylinder the inner seal was crumbly and the cause of the failure.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21360	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Feb 2017 at 12:17pm
	Disassemble the cylinder in chassis. It does NOT need to be on a bench. It isn't easy, but it's easier than all the grief this one was. Work thru the oil hole after removing the elbow.....been there and dun that many times.