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D17 Clutch

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Alberta Phil View Drop Down
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
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    Posted: 11 May 2012 at 11:05pm
The clutch on my D17 LP that I bought last winter was stuck and wouldn't release. After extensive soaking with PB Blaster, I still couldn't free it up so I split the tractor last night.
I installed one of my heavy wheeled buggies under the loader frame and bolted it to the rails to support the front half and supported the rear section on a block of hardwood with a 3/4 in. steel flat iron on top. After greasing the rails the block slides back on them as the tractor is split.  I had to use the threaded rods to jack it apart until the splines pulled out of the clutch disc.  Lower guide bolts are engine mounting bolts from my 1919 Twin City tractor which is apart in the next bay!!

After getting it apart I noticed the splines on the input shaft are showing a lot of wear.

I will install a new clutch and throwout bearing so I don't have to go in there again!

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Alberta Phil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alberta Phil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2012 at 11:06pm
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Alberta Phil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alberta Phil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2012 at 11:14pm
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2012 at 9:23am
you REALLY need an input shaft
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2012 at 9:51am
In all my years of seeing D17's used and abused and tortured, I've never seen a clutch shaft look like that....never.
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2012 at 9:40pm
I'm with Dr.Allis, have saw inside alot of ACs but never saw a shaft worn like that. Would say it didn't get heat treated.   MACK
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Alberta Phil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alberta Phil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2012 at 11:15am
I'm very surprised to see this myself as usually these shafts are hardened. I had a little trouble getting the clutch assembly out of the flywheel. When it finally came out the springs released and the throw out fingers snapped back to the engaged position. The whole assembly was jammed up with various chunks of clutch dust and crap!  There's not much clearance between the pressure plate/disc and the rim of the flywheel.

 I haven't had a look at the manual yet, but how much of a job is it to replace the input shaft??

As an alternative I was going to build up the splines and recut them.  I realize some hardness would be lost unless I used a Stellite type material.  I've done this before on pre-'20 tractors when there were no replacements available.

Oddly enough, the clutch disc hub shows no wear on the splines!!


Edited by Alberta Phil - 13 May 2012 at 11:16am
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2012 at 12:59pm
That shaft is three feet long and requires a second splt at the dashboard area. Then the hydraulic pump must be removed from the belly of the torque tube housing. It's a big job even if you have all the tooling it requires.
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Alberta Phil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alberta Phil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2012 at 10:50pm
I'm going to build up and recut the splines on the shaft where it is. I've done this before on slightly larger shafts with good success.  
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Alberta Phil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alberta Phil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2012 at 7:29pm
Well, I welded up the worn splines 2 at a time 180 degrees apart and let them cool, although they didn't get that hot with the wire feed welder., I then used a fine small grinding disc and a die grinder to smooth them off.  After each set of two splines I tried the clutch disc until it slid easily. It took a couple of hours or so but seemed to work OK.  
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dscott View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dscott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2012 at 7:46pm
Wonder how the weld will hold up to the wear? Should be ok I think unless your going to work the crap out of it. By the way looks like a really nice job you did there.
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Alberta Phil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alberta Phil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2012 at 8:01pm
I tried a new file on the shaft to check hardness before and after welding and it doesn,t seem any different.  I'm sure it's better than it was!!  After all it took 52 years for it to get to the worn state it was!
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