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sks72107 
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Joined: 30 Sep 2010
Location: Logansport, IN
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 Topic: 175 cylinder pin removal
Posted: 03 May 2012 at 10:59am |
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OK, theres a lot of irons in the fire at my place now; so im getting to projects when i can. I am trying to remove the mounting pins from the left side 3-pt lift cylinder. The rear most pin was easy, remove the keeper clip and tap out pin. Now the front most pin is a different story. It appears it has to be pushed out to the outer side of the tractor. I pulled the pin keeper(the technical term slips my mind). The pin still wont come out. I am planning on pulling the foot rest to gain better access to it. My tenative plan is to take a chisel, which acts as a wedge, and drive it between the stubborn mounting pin and some other shaft like object in there. Does this sound like a good plan, or am i missing something somewhere? Thanks.
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 03 May 2012 at 11:14am |
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I've had success by driving a chisel behind the pin and then taking a socket and driving the cylinder in till it hits the mount. Don't get too agressive or you can break off the tab. If it moves, I spray with PB blaster, remove the chisel and drive the pin back in. Repeat this process till things start to move easily, then grip the pin with a pair of vice grips and twist and work it out. I did a bunch of them last winter and only had to use heat on one or two. Good luck!
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 03 May 2012 at 11:19am |
That is a 12pt bolt head behind the pin....it is one of 3 bolts that hold the cylinder bracket to the rear end housing.....so the only way to get the cylinder off is to get that pin out.....kinda bad engineering if you ask me. Also I was able to get a chisel in there without removing the foot rest, which is a pain.
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 03 May 2012 at 11:26am |
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One more thing, you were lucky that spring pin came out ok. I had two that broke off and the only way to drive them out is with a punch from the top...and the only way to get to the top is to pull off the final drive...but the cylinder is in the way...so you have to take the fitting off the cylinder and hope the final drive flange will clear. On one it wouldn't, so the only thing I could do was use a hydraulic jack to force the final drive flange past the cylinder. That was a long day.....
Edited by Eldon (WA) - 03 May 2012 at 11:27am
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sks72107
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Posted: 03 May 2012 at 11:35am |
Thanks Eldon, somehow i thought you may chime in, having recent first hand experience. Its good to know that "other shaft" is just a 12pt bolt, i thought it felt kinda splined but came to no logical conclusion why there would be a splined shaft there sticking out. Well, maybe i wont remove the foot rest, as it seems like the only thing really in the way is the hydraulic lines stopping me from swing hammer at the chisel. Ill try moving hydraulic lines out of way first. Thanks again for the quick response.
Eldon, spring pin came out with an easy pry of the screw driver. Deffinately none broke off in hole hanging things up.
Edited by sks72107 - 03 May 2012 at 11:38am
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dpower
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Posted: 03 May 2012 at 12:39pm |
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Not to jump your post but Eldon did you find a good way to get the lift arms off of the the rock shaft. MY 170 needs new seals there and i can not get the left arm to budge off the shaft. Any suggestions??
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 03 May 2012 at 3:39pm |
 dpower wrote:
Not to jump your post but Eldon did you find a good way to get the lift arms off of the the rock shaft. MY 170 needs new seals there and i can not get the left arm to budge off the shaft. Any suggestions?? |
No...I took the good advice to switch the whole rear housing and keep the arms on tight. The gasket was in good shape, so I slapped some gasket sealer on it and bolted it on. I think it saved a lot of 4 letter words....
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DrAllis
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Posted: 03 May 2012 at 6:39pm |
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If I had a lower pin that was in tight enough it required a fight, I left it there. There is no reason to remove that pin. I rebuild cylinders in chassis and if you're doing a brake job, just remove the 90 degree fitting and hydraulic hose and the rear pin and drop the cylinder down as far as it will go and the axle will slide right over the top of it.
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Chris/CT
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Posted: 03 May 2012 at 7:19pm |
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Bob and I did what the Doc. described when we did my 175, why fight if you don't have to.
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 03 May 2012 at 9:40pm |
Chris/CT wrote:
Bob and I did what the Doc. described when we did my 175, why fight if you don't have to. |
Well mine had to come out so that I could replace the twisted off brake rod...cylinder mount has to come off to access the pin.
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MACK
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Posted: 03 May 2012 at 10:12pm |
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With nfinal drive removed you can get the broken rod out by cleaning the threads and heat. If it don't come then, remove the 2 snaprings on bar that rod screws into and remove the bar and broken rod. MACK
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NC Bruce
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Posted: 03 May 2012 at 11:01pm |
I let the cylinder hang down too, as mentioned above, rebuilding my 175 brakes. When ready to put the axle back on, I had to work a lot back and forth on the brake rod, using Krill & PB to finally get it turning. I put a tiny toothpick size coat of AntiSieze on that nut too. Just didn't want any to ever get on those brake pads. Are you needing to rebuild the cylinders? Are all the cylinders for 175's the newer / easier type to rebuild? We just rebuilt the older type cylinder on one of my 170's. The KIT was $73. from Agco - Sandy Lake. I took the seals kit box to a local hydraulics, and he was able to match most all the parts....around $40...ish. I wrote down the numbers somewhere if anyone's interested. Couldn't find a comparable screen mesh that goes into the breather tube on the cylinder.
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sks72107
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Posted: 04 May 2012 at 6:47am |
Rebuilding cylinder on chassis, interesting idea. I will deffinately think about it. This is my first pony ride on cylinder rebuilding thing, and thought it may be easier sitting on the bench. But, you guys are the experienced ones and thats why i asked. Hope to make progress on this tomorrow. Thanks.
Some kind fellow on here already enlightened me on what parts i need to re-seal the cyl.
Edited by sks72107 - 04 May 2012 at 6:49am
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