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Switching generator to alternator

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keithpearson View Drop Down
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    Posted: Yesterday at 4:14pm
I'm in the process of switching my D17 series 4 over to an alternator. The alternator that I have is too big to fit inside the cowling. What alternator do you guys recommend to use to fit inside cowling without having to cut it up to get the alternator to fit
WD45,160 6040,D14,D15,D17,D19,D21,and still looking for more
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 5:01pm
The old standard is the DELCO 10SI with internal regulator..

If you want one about 2/3 that size, you get the DENSO type, or "chevy mini".... prices range from $75. up to about $150. .. many of these are ONE WIRE, meaning there is no spade connector plug needed, just power cable to the battery ............ this is on ebay... everyone sells these.




Edited by steve(ill) - 22 hours 19 minutes ago at 7:27pm
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 hours 23 minutes ago at 7:23pm
25 years ago i started upgrading a few tractors with an alternator... At that time, DELCO 10SI was the standard... but was being replaced with the NEW CS130 which was smaller.. I have several of those in service... Thats another option..... these normally have a spade connector fittin on the side.. Two terminals are use, on gets 12v, the other gets a 12v SIGNAL to start the charge, similar to wiring up the older  10 SI.
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The Delco Remy CS130 is a compact, high-output internal-regulator alternator used heavily by General Motors from 1986 through the mid-1990s


Edited by steve(ill) - 22 hours 20 minutes ago at 7:26pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 hours 58 minutes ago at 9:48pm
Whenever I did a Delco on a D-17 tractor, I always left the fan off of the alternator to avoid cutting sheet metal. I always figured the radiator fan blast was adequate for alternator cooling and it apparently was, as I never had a failure and many of those conversions operated electric corn planter fans. If there was a lack of cooling I would have known about it decades ago.
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Straanger View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Straanger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 hours 14 minutes ago at 12:32am
There are also “alternator in a generator case “ options that have been used for years in the hot rodding community. I have no idea about how reliable they are since I haven’t followed that stuff for many years. But it’s another option to look into that would keep the original look, if you can find the right one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 8 hours 48 minutes ago at 8:58am
One thing to know is that alternators have a miniscule current draw when not running. For anything that get seldom used. It's best to remove the ground cable or have a master disconnect.
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 8 hours 33 minutes ago at 9:13am
Good point Paul. Over time they can drain your battery.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 8 hours 27 minutes ago at 9:19am
a GOOD alternator will have no parasitic draw while setting... If you do have a draw, then one of you diodes is defective in the regulator.... Not real common, but yes, it does happen.

Edited by steve(ill) - 8 hours 23 minutes ago at 9:23am
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 8 hours 16 minutes ago at 9:30am
My experiences 30 years ago with the early versions of the 10SI Delco "one-wire" alternators left me pretty sour on parasitic draw. When you're trying to convert an old tractor over as quickly and easily as possible to 12V with alternator, you would naturally choose the one-wire alternator, only then to have trouble with the battery being dead every time the tractor sat for maybe a month not being used.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TedN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 5 hours 56 minutes ago at 11:50am
One other issue with the older one wire alternators that I have run into is some tractors don't spin them fast enough to start charging. When we needed an alternator for my brother's forklift I ordered several different mini alternators from Amazon, I think they were all one wire and if I remember right I found three different frames. I ordered one of each as they didn't cost a lot back then, figuring we would probably eventually find a use for them. My D14 has a Ford style alternator on it with external regulator. It was on the tractor when I bought it and it works, so I haven't looked at how it is wired. If you don't mind doing some wiring you can use the Delco 10dn with an external regulator and not have issues with battery drain or worrying about whether the engine will spin fast enough to trigger it.

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190XTD seriesIII, 190XTD seriesI, maroon belly 7000, 7030, 7045, D14, 190XTD series??? project(or maybe parts)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote keithpearson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 5 hours 51 minutes ago at 11:55am
Thank you everyone for all your input it's greatly appreciated!!
WD45,160 6040,D14,D15,D17,D19,D21,and still looking for more
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan R Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 4 hours 49 minutes ago at 12:57pm
I converted our D17 IV some years back. Not the one wire type alternator. One I have charges all the time (all engine rpm's).

I tweaked the alternator bracket and "bracket that tightens the belt". Which was essentially changing the bracket angle a bit by cutting it and rewelding it.

I used the same belt, NO sheet metal was cut and it's still tucked under the hood. If interested in pics, let me know. I'll be at the farm tomorrow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 1 hour 40 minutes ago at 4:06pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

a GOOD alternator will have no parasitic draw while setting... If you do have a draw, then one of you diodes is defective in the regulator.... Not real common, but yes, it does happen.

Ummm... well, yes, kinda sorta Wink

Even the very best diodes will have measurable leakage current but it may be only a few microamps, and most folks don't play with meters that can measure that small.

A good alternator will allow leakage current in the low single digits of milliamps (less than 10 milliamps). Anything over 100 milliamps is cause for concern IMHO.

When I was in the Biomed business repairing medical equipment we had to test for leakage current; an extension cord plugged into a wall outlet will have a few microamps of current flowing through the insulation of the cord itself. The ground conductor was only allowed to a maximum of ~300 millohms resistance as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 1 hour 32 minutes ago at 4:14pm
Originally posted by TedN TedN wrote:

One other issue with the older one wire alternators that I have run into is some tractors don't spin them fast enough to start charging...

Yup.
My Model C wouldn't rev fast enough to excite the one-wire alternator that I installed on it some years ago, I had to force the governor rod at the carburetor to open the throttle manually. I did not like doing this on a cold engine so I replaced it with a three-wire unit.

The one-wire unit now resides on my Son-in-law's HD5G, the Screamin' Jimmy has no problem spinning it fast enough to charge the battery.
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