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8050 Vibration Damper

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JimWenigOH View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimWenigOH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 8050 Vibration Damper
    Posted: 11 Oct 2025 at 8:51pm
I noticed a slight wobble of the crankshaft pulley while the engine was running. Looking closer I noticed the neoprene on the damper was cracked and not spaced evenly around the circumference. Didn't look like there was any recent movement, but don't think this is proper. I tried doing a search for this subject and came up empty. I seem to remember this topic discussed on here before and believe there was a place out in the NW USA that rebuilds dampers. Would appreciate thoughts and comments on this.
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IBWD MIke View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 6:07am
Jim, it has been discussed. Seems like not that long ago. If memory serves a dampener from a Detroit diesel of some sort might work?



Edited by IBWD MIke - 12 Oct 2025 at 6:11am
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Lynn Marshall View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 7:40am
Mike's link discusses the fluid dampeners used on the higher horsepower engines. I'm not sure if the guy in Oregon?? is still rebuilding the rubber dampeners. Dale manufacturing, I think.
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Mikez View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mikez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 7:56am
Right Jim is referring to the rubber in the crank pulley 
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 9:51am
Dr Allis had one rebuilt not so long ago.....
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 10:50am
Yes, and I had it done by Dale Mfg in Salem, Oregon. Address is 3425 Fairhaven Ave NE zip 97301.  Email: langsatherdavid@gmail.com     It is my understanding that he has officially retired now, but check that out for yourself.  A & I products has new ones with p/n A-74037126.
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ecosse23 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ecosse23 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 1:40pm
Purely out of curiosity I had a google search, and turned up a firm in California -
http://damperdoctor.com/ - which lists custom rebuilding of harmonic balancers, including for heavy equipment.  May be worth asking them, just in case they can help?
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JimWenigOH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimWenigOH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 6:29am
Thank you all for the helpful information. Will do some research on repair or replacement, and update with results. In reading the Service Manual for the tractor, it states that in order to replace this crankshaft pulley, "....Support front end of tractor and remove front support and front axle assembly." Mine has FWA. Really, you have to do all this to remove the pulley?
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 7:49am
You will be pulling from 3 (of 6) 7/16" NC holes in the center hub. Loosen the crank nose bolt a couple of turns so the washer behind the bolt head is obviously loose. Make yourself a 1/2" thick plate (or thicker) with three holes to line up with the holes you are going to pull from. Use grade 8 hardware and run a tap thru the holes to get good connection depth. Mine is a 3/4" plate with a 1 inch hole in the center. I have a 1 inch NF nut welded to the inside of the plate and use a 1 inch NF Gr8 bolt for the pusher screw. You can use a short porto-power ram too if you desire. Sometimes takes 10 tons.  Radiator shroud and fan must be removed to gain access. Front end stays put, but it's a tight area for sure.
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JimWenigOH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimWenigOH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 hours 43 minutes ago at 8:36pm
Doctor, thanks for that great time saver. I have to wonder if A-C had an ACT tool for that or did every dealer just make their own?
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orangereborn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote orangereborn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 9 hours 12 minutes ago at 12:07am
I will jump in here about the damper doctor.  I tried in the last year to contact about a damper and did not have any luck.. coupler of years ago I did the same about a fluid damper with the same results..  so I was not sure of their existence.  The site  looked active...Let us know if it was just timing...Thanks...Dale
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 20 minutes ago at 5:59am
What I have described allows for removal in chassis. Any other type of puller needs the front of the engine exposed to have room for pulley removal.
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