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MadCow 
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Joined: 27 Aug 2023
Location: South Dakota
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 Topic: D15 Tach/Proof meter and governor spring
Posted: 13 May 2024 at 8:37pm |
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I know this has been asked before. But I cannot get the search function to return any results. (The search function almost always just says "search expired....")
Where can I get a D15 Tach that can go up to, preferably, 3,000rpm, or at least 2,800?
It is a series I, I plan on upgrading the governor spring (a 190 is 2800??). I'm doing this for the extra power in working, not for tractor pulls. So I would still like to know my mph, PTO, and all that jazz that's on the proofmeter. I also want it to look "stock".
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 13 May 2024 at 10:04pm |
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I believe a series 2 D-15 tach goes to 2400 rpm max and would have your PTO and ground speeds marked on it. You will not find a 3000 rpm tach that has all the other things you want. A 190 governor spring will not work on a D-15. You operate a D-15 at 2800 rpm for any extended time and I would expect the governor weights to eventually explode.
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MadCow
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Posted: 13 May 2024 at 10:42pm |
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I know very little about these governor's.
Will a heavier spring not work because it won't fit, or because the weights will explode?
We're talking about the spring that pulls back on the governor rod right?
Not that I doubt the doc. Just tryna learn more and think of options.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 14 May 2024 at 6:08am |
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The governor spring is on the right side of the engine just ahead of the ignition distributor. This spring has a plunger inside of it so the engine can be idled down. There is limited room for a stiffer spring that would work right, but it's your tractor, go ahead and see what you can find. Governor weight failure is just a warning as to what could happen over time.
Edited by DrAllis - 14 May 2024 at 6:09am
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PaulB
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Location: Rocky Ridge Md
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Posted: 14 May 2024 at 6:45am |
I have been pulling with the "smallblock" Allis Chalmers engines for more that 40 years. I routinely run them at speeds well above 4000 RPM and have never had a governor failure. However when building engines, I make sure the governor in in good condition to begin with. To get this kind of engine speed, I've used many different methods. The one I like best is to re-configure the external governor arm to get more travel on the governor spring while still maintaining that push back feature that is built into the spring with the plug inside of it. To the original poster: You don't mention which series D15 you have, so I'm guessing a series I. If you get a governor spring for a series II, that should get you near to 2500 with just adjusting the linkage as is to get full travel from the hand throttle to the governor. If you get a tachometer from a 3300-7700 John Deere combine that has a counter-clockwise face, that will give you a 3500 RPM tachometer. As for wheel speed, I pulled a CA and developed a speed chart for many different size tires at various RPMs. REAL PULLING DOESN'T HAVE SPEED LIMITS
Edited by PaulB - 14 May 2024 at 8:32am
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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ACinSC
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Posted: 14 May 2024 at 7:17am |
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Old post I started from May 2023 might be of some interest Mad Cow? Good luck!
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MadCow
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Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:22am |
 PaulB wrote:
I have been pulling with the "smallblock" Allis Chalmers engines for more that 40 years. I routinely run them at speeds well above 4000 RPM and have never had a governor failure. However when building engines, I make sure the governor in in good condition to begin with. To get this kind of engine speed, I've used many different methods. The one I like best is to re-configure the external governor arm to get more travel on the governor spring while still maintaining that push back feature that is built into the spring with the plug inside of it. To the original poster: You don't mention which series D15 you have, so I'm guessing a series I. If you get a governor spring for a series II, that should get you near to 2500 with just adjusting the linkage as is to get full travel from the hand throttle to the governor. If you get a tachometer from a 3300-7700 John Deere combine that has a counter-clockwise face, that will give you a 3500 RPM tachometer. As for wheel speed, I pulled a CA and developed a speed chart for many different size tires at various RPMs. REAL PULLING DOESN'T HAVE SPEED LIMITS |
Thanks! My governor is likely in "original condition" is there anything short of buying a new one you'd recommend? I'm not opposed to should I blow this one up. I don't think I need 4,000. But something about getting stock D17 level power(or close to) out of this D15 Series 1 really tickles my brain. Plus it's a large tractor. A modern tractor this size would be much higher powered. Not saying it needs to compete with modern tractors, but it just tickles my brain. I might just start with the series 2 tach and spring. A John Deere tach would have the RPM range - but not the gearing? If I could find gear ratios I could draw up a face and print one out... I will look AC, the search function still eludes me!
Edited by MadCow - 14 May 2024 at 9:24am
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WF owner
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Posted: 14 May 2024 at 10:40am |
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If you consistently run any of these old tractors over the power output they were designed to be run, major problems will surface soon! The drivetrain, PTO and even the structure of the tractor was all designed by engineers to be run at a certain horsepower and weight.
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PaulB
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Posted: 14 May 2024 at 2:04pm |
The "smallblock" Allis Chalmers engines are much tougher and can withstand enhanced power as designed than the "bigblock" AC engines (201-226) that require much modification to be durable. In over 40 years of pulling with AC little tractor, I've never had an engine failure. The cause of most tractor failures in pulling is running a much heavier weight than the tractor was built for. Big power, in a light class and going as fast as possible, with some slippage, works well. Adding weight and using lower gears to compensate for lack of power is a certain recipe for disaster. OP: you can't go wrong with a complete NEW governor for your D15, it's the same thing sold for the B or CA tractor with a distributer. Although you never can tell how good or bad yours is without inspecting it. AS for my personable opinion, a D15 would never be my choice for a pulling tractor, They can only get down to a 3500 pound class at best and the Series I will have 149 CID engine with the Series II having 160 CID. At that weight class you be pulling against tractors with near to or above twice the CID. Making a speed chart is easy, just find your total overall gear ratio and work out your tire(s) circumference. I've often used an electric tachometer for a marine application. these can be had in lower RPM ranges than race car tachs |
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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DSeries4
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Posted: 14 May 2024 at 3:51pm |
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D17 power from a Series 1 D15? You are a long way away and I doubt that a governor alone will get you there. Series 1 D15 is 36 hp at the PTO. D17s run 54 HP. That's 18 hp difference. To get anywhere close to that, you would need to do some major engine work and then some. Even a Series 2 D15 puts out 46 hp - still 8 ponies shy.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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MadCow
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Posted: 14 May 2024 at 6:54pm |
DSeries4 wrote:
D17 power from a Series 1 D15? You are a long way away and I doubt that a governor alone will get you there. Series 1 D15 is 36 hp at the PTO. D17s run 54 HP. That's 18 hp difference. To get anywhere close to that, you would need to do some major engine work and then some. Even a Series 2 D15 puts out 46 hp - still 8 ponies shy.
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Assuming torque is consistent across the motor range, which for these types of motors at lower rpm, it usually is. I should be able to make up the HP difference by running a higher RPM, about 3,000 will get me to 54PTO
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