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Allis 6060 Motor Issue's

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Richardmo View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rolla mo.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Richardmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Allis 6060 Motor Issue's
    Posted: 11 Jan 2020 at 2:38pm
I have a family member that has a 6060,Today they call me about all the work they have had been done to it,said they have had to motor work about every 3 years.
The have replaced pisons and bearings one time.
Then about 3 years later had to replace the crank shaft.
Was their serious motor issue with these tractors, or is just the person working on not knowing what they are doing.

Never have had a 6060 so I do not know much about them.
Also is there Combine motor that would work as a motor replacement?
Today they cut the oil filter open and had cutting in it.
started making a knocking noise.
They only use this tractor mainly for feeding hay.

Any information is appreacated,
Thanks
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2020 at 2:47pm
Normally, those engines are good for 8 to 10,000 hrs. There was an issue with 6080's involving the crankshaft thrust bearing and there was a fix kit to address that. Some 6060's should have gotten the same kit if there is a lot of foot clutch/PTO clutch activity.  Also sounds like someone who doesn't know the engine has been working on it.
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DougG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2020 at 2:58pm
They are very simple reliable good engines, id be questioning the mechanic on this one,, if they want to sell it im very interested ! PM me if so

Edited by DougG - 11 Jan 2020 at 3:01pm
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Richardmo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Richardmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2020 at 3:08pm
Doug,

I sent them a link to watch the answer that come from this post.
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DougG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2020 at 3:12pm
Ok gottcha
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2020 at 9:17pm
Could be operator. We replaced clutch every year in one customer's D15. He could not keep his foot off pedal.        MACK
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LeonR2013 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeonR2013 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2020 at 9:53pm
Cold weather starts could be taking it's toll. AKA either.      Leon
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 4:42pm
I don't know if the late K2/3's had the upgraded crank thrust brg or not but that would be the "same" engine as 6060. 6060's had less clutch force VS 6080's for the cold start issue that hurt the thrust brg. That wasn't so much a problem if operator followed proper proceedure I believe. An F3 engine would work but is more HP and inner cooled so it may be money better spent on a salvage engine VS working on that one again. The combine engines never worked hard enough to hurt them. Maintainence would be only concern.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 5:26pm
No K-3's, only K-2's.  Any K-2 or F-2-3 combine engine will require changing over the front end of the engine to accommodate the hydraulic pump drive and mounting ears to the side frames. This means dropping the oil pan and pulling the camshaft. Older combine engines will also require changing over the exhaust manifold and turbo as they are positioned differently than a tractor engine. Intercooler is easily removed from an F-2-3 engine to configure to 6060 specs.
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DSeries4 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 8:19pm
Only used for feeding hay - that could be the problem.  Never gets worked hard, rarely gets up to operating temperature.  Neighbor used to have a green tractor that couldn't keep an engine in it.  All it ever did was pull a vegetable transplanter in low gear at low engine idle.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2020 at 8:05pm
The 6060 was the lowest hp setting of the turbo'd 4.33T.  Very little issues. They were low compression engines so did not start well.  They had an ether system that had a small nozzel and very seldom did one hear knocking with ether as long as the throttle was pushed up.  Spraying ether in the intake or removal of the nozzle resulted in piston damage - operator error.  Running the tractor with the yellow PTO handle rearward except for short periods would result in damage to the thrust bearings. We set all our unit to crank with the handle forward - no pressure on pressure plate - and put the safety switch on the seasonal disconnect lever.    All wet sleeve engines (except sisu) are subject to cavitational erosion or electrolysis.  Happens about 5-6000 hours unless the ph of the coolant is checked and adjusted with coolant kits.  There are different injector tips for different pistons that one must be aware of and different compression ratios that can be obtained by using different pistons, all of which can cause issues. We had one well maintained 6060 that had over 10,000 hours before coolant in the oil caused issues.  We replaced it with a F2 engine - changed the front cover and added the front thrust kit - 3 years ago - still running strong.   We caution any 6000 series ovners to check the transmission oil - a very neglected area - it is separate from the rear hyd oil which should be kept slightly over full or safety 's sake. 
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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