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400 loader cylinders

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allisbred View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allisbred Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 400 loader cylinders
    Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 4:29pm
What do you guys recommend as a good replacement for the lift cylinders? I think they are 40” tube length x 2 1/2” shaft. Is there a brand that works better or should I just buy a cost efficient set rated at 4000psi? Not sure what the originals were? Thanks, Kevin
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WD45 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WD45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 5:31pm
Maple Lane Farm Equipment, MOUNT FOREST Ontario made 2 new lift cylinders this summer for my 500 loader.
Fred Dunlop, G,B,CA, WC,WF, 3 WD45`s,gas, diesel and LP,U,D10 series III, D12,D14,D15 SERIES II,D17 Series IV in Gas and Diesel ,D19 GAS and D21,170 185,210 ,220 an I-600 8070 fwd, 716H and 1920H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boss Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 5:46pm
A lot of times the difference between cheap and expensive is a o-ring versus packing/ cup seals. Whats wrong with the originals?
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allisbred View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allisbred Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 6:14pm
I had them re-chromed a few years ago— they all leak. Not sure having them redone is cost effective.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 7:01pm
400 Series loader cylinders operate at the standard pressure of 2200 psi.  They are not the old high pressure/low volume type.
If you had them rechromed a few years ago, I would take them back there and tell them to fix them.  Should last longer than that.

'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 7:18pm
I would think the bearing on the end is worn allowing the rod to be loose, causing the seals to fail. 30 yrs ago I had a machine shop make me some new bearings that were .002" undersize to help with worn cylinder rods.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 8:13pm
If the rods aren't pitted and still have chrome, rebuilding the cylinder is about the cheapest way to go, and should last for 20 years, unless you run the loader 24-7.
 


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 23 Dec 2019 at 8:13pm
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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allisbred View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allisbred Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 9:12pm
I think there is wear as suggested by Dr Allis because they did leak some after having them re-plated. There is a small amount of “barber pole” evident as well meaning the plating was not up to factory specifications on surface finish in my opinion. Our local shop would not really stand behind their work as they were functional and only seep leaked after repaired. I’m sure with all the lime that has been moved with that tractor is most likely the worst conditions for the seals. It eats alternators as well. Kinda of why I am just looking for a good replacement at this point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 8:47am
Just my opinion but I wouldn't sink much money in them , seems almost every one I've seen leak
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave Wisc. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 9:02am
I rebuilt mine and they still leak a little but not much.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote victoryallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 12:21pm
Find a good hydraulic shop mine might not be cheap but she does good work.
8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 1:12pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 1:59pm
If the cylinder "barrels" are in good shape after inspection by a reputable shop, the can build exact match piston rods to the existing pistons working lengths.
With the latest seals and bushings technology, the pistons/seals assemblies they build will last a very long time.
Have them itemize the wear parts by manufacturer numbers on your receipt and you will have them on record if you do need to re-seal them yourself down the road.
Many shops don't actually perform a pressure test on rebuilds but will if you push them.
Went thru this earlier this year when a shop did the D17IV 3-pt. lift cylinders and they failed immediately when put into service, wanted full charge to again redress them until I asked if they pressure tested them. Took them to another shop and no way in hell were they ever going to hold as barrels were severely pitted. My piston rods were well within spec and great finish so had them build new barrels, still far cheaper than buying new replacement cylinder assemblies or fiddling around with used cylinders from a salvage tractor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 3:17pm
Always wondered why they used cast brackets where you put the pins thru ?
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