Like I need another project

I just acquired an HD5B with Garwood angle dozer that had been in the woods uncovered for many years. We dragged it out with the steering clutch levers tied back. The left track was not moving. When we got it to a place where we could work on it, we spent 7 hours trying to get it free. I removed the fuel tank and disconnected the brake band. With the master clutch disengaged and the transmission in gear we attempted to rotate the driveshaft. We pushed and pulled it with another dozer. We even lifted most of the machine by a grouser below center of the sprocket. After we removed the blade and sprocket guard I learned that I could generate as much movement as with any of the previous methods by prying on a sprocket spoke.

It was getting dark and we were being pressed to move it. We lifted it by the track with a loader on each side and backed the trailer underneath. We put boards underneath the dead track so we didn't damage the trailer.

Now it is really dark and we are all really tired. We knew it wasn't going to come down the trailer ramps because the slightest pull from any direction caused the HD5 to rotate on the trailer. Remove the ramps and pull it quickly. It was a small drop from the beaver tail trailer but the HD5 almost rolled over. When I pulled it with my HD6 the dead track moved correctly.

Now the reason for this long story is Next time you have a dead track drop the machine off a trailer. That will fix it.


I have had a couple days to work on it and aside from the rust it is in good shape. If anyone has the floor panel with shift lever gate, I need one. The ring and pinion chamber and the transmission didn't have any oil. The motor oil was at the proper level. The exhaust pipe was not covered so I will pull the cylinder head and hope for the best. Today I raised the left track so I can work on the steering clutch. I stopped because now it is raining.

I have the bad steering clutch side off the ground. The other steering clutch disengaged. I have removed the bolts on the inboard side of the steering clutch. I have (2) portapower cylinders trying to push the clutch pack into the drum.

I can easily generate 3000psi with my portapower pumps. At 3000psi each cylinder generates 3680# force. I'm using a pipe extension on the portapower so I'm generating a lot more force. Look at where it says 1/4" on the hose. I do not have the 1/4" required to remove the assembly. Does anyone have any suggestions??? I hate to cut the drum.
I learned that the 4 ton and the 10 ton portapower pumps generate the same pressure because they have the same diameter pistons.

Nest question: Can I remove the Detroit 2-71 muffler from the cylinder head by grinding the nuts off the muffler?

Are you talking about the four nuts that hold the muffler flange to the manifold? If you are you can cut them off if they refuse to budge.

I am still trying to push the steering clutch pack into the drum. I can not get the assembly free from the inner and outer flange at the same time. I did manage to get the cylinder head off
The bore with the water has hard rust. I plan to clean and oil both cylinders. Remove the oil pan and try to rotate the crankshaft so that the front piston travels up. If the piston does not move in the bore maybe I can unseat the sleeve from the block.

Suggestions ???

Lucky for us that Dozer and many others that post here do need another project- 

Some very neat tools you have! On that question you have about starter removal...if you don't get any response under this topic I suggest you post a new topic "HD5 starter removal". Any topic that has HD5 in the heading seems to get good input.

Put a bit of heat from the bottom to the glue seal along the row of bolts. A propane torch is enough to soften the glue. For deeper pans it helps to whack them from the side with a rubber mallet but that Detroit pan is kind of shallow for that to be effective.

Coke thanks for the PM
I have removed the front floor plate so that I can get to the nut holding the fender at the rear. At the front of the fender is one of the two original bolts. X marks the location on the picture.
I can get to the nut but the bolt is under the Garwood hard nose. I understand why mechanics do not put the fender back once removed

Congratulations on your progress!  Makes one feel hopeful of getting somewhere with a project. 

Dozer - Excellent progress on the steering clutch.  That's a nice carrier you made to pull the clutch  - what components comprise the carrier?

orangeman wrote: Dozer - Excellent progress on the steering clutch.  That's a nice carrier you made to pull the clutch  - what components comprise the carrier? Orangeman

I have always used the brake band when working on Caterpillar stuff. As that is Cats recommendation in there book.

Thanks for all pictures of the process and progress.

Oh boy...there is nothing easy about this job. Hats off for how far you have come!!

The motor stopped with both pistons mid stroke. I put Kroil in the cylinders over the winter. I have been trying to adjust the piston position in the bores using a piece of oak turned to piston diameter and my 8 pound hammer. broke the oak, pistons still at mid stroke. Took both rod caps off, good oil, bearings look very good. Advise please. Should I open the air box and remove the blower to lubricate the pistons thru the air holes?

It took me over an hour to remove the con rod cotter pins because the crank was in a bad position. I don't like cotter pins.

I was recently doing some body work on one of my pickups. I went to the local autobody supply shop to get some supplies ! I found a rust remover and though I would try it ! Granted this a lot lighter material but I would have no problem trying this on a cast iron engine myself ! This is not the type of stuff that Tractor supply sells . Or that turns rust black ,it is an acid that actually ate the rust ???  I found I have a lot less sheet metal than I thought I had !!!

We used a spring loaded handle to lock into the air intake ports to use the pistons to drive the sleeves out. With rods unbolted should be easy enough to jack them out as are dry sleeves. When you replace them there are different sizes, the sleeves will need to be hone fitted to the block for a snug slip fit. Too tight will seize, too loose will rip them apart at the intake ports. Used to be able to get Std., .001, .005 and .010 oversize sleeves, then there was a secondary sizing of light or heavy as to any of these where each had a Detroit sizing stamp placed high or low or mid-position on the sleeve. Had to use a Sunnen style hone for accuracy, a deglazing hone will not cut square top to bottom.