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TimmyG185 
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Joined: 05 Sep 2023
Location: Canada
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 Topic: Oil coming from injectors
Posted: 05 Sep 2023 at 9:42pm |
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Hey everyone, new to the forum and a new owner of an AC 185, my first tractor.
I noticed a potential oil leak so I cleaned off the engine and drove it around and inspected the engine after. It looks like oil potentially bubbling out were the injector sleeves are? I’ve read that it could be fuel that’s just coming out looking dirty?
Would appreciate any help! Thanks!
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 05 Sep 2023 at 9:56pm |
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It's from a leaking valve cover gasket. Maybe it doesn't leak anymore, if it's been fixed, but it will take some time for the injector bores to dry up.
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TimmyG185
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Posted: 05 Sep 2023 at 10:18pm |
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Ok I was wondering if that would be the case. I have a feeling it hasnt been fixed so ill order a gasket and see if that'll fix it. Probably not a bad place to start. Thanks!
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 06 Sep 2023 at 8:37am |
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Seems the leaky injector always turns out to be the valve cover gasket.
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Acdiesel
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Posted: 06 Sep 2023 at 11:14am |
The cooper washers on the injectors will need to be replaced if you have bubbles. I just went through this on a customers 185. Same thing, valve cover gasket had a slight leak and was bubbling around 2 of the injectors. replaced the gasket, removed the injectors, cleaned the injector bores in the head and replaced the copper injector washers and then gave the engine a good pressure washing and life was good.
dan
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D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3
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I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger)
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TimmyG185
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Posted: 06 Sep 2023 at 2:15pm |
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Would you happen to have a parts number on those copper washers?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 06 Sep 2023 at 2:34pm |
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Get your valve cover gasket dried up first. Chances are very low that you will need copper compression washers.
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wjohn
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Posted: 06 Sep 2023 at 6:03pm |
If you do need to look up any parts you can normally use the AGCO parts site here: http://parts.agcocorp.com
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Acdiesel
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Posted: 07 Sep 2023 at 8:53pm |
there are two different parts numbers depending on the style injector you have.
74025150 or 74009035.
once your oil leak is fixed/dried you won't see any bubbles, if you want to check for a compresson leak you can use a spay bottle with some soapy water.
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D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3
2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF
D15 SER.2 DIESEL
D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II
2-720'S D21 Ser. II
Gmc,caterpillar
I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger)
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KJCHRIS
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Joined: 21 Dec 2015
Location: WC Iowa
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Posted: 07 Sep 2023 at 11:47pm |
It's usually the valve cover gasket leaking. Even after replacing gasket it takes a while to get the oil cooked out of the injector bores. IF you're going to replace the gasket there is an updated hold down bolt kit available that seems to help keep gasket from leaking again. It came out in 1982 on 649 & 670 engines.
#4008074, Valve cover gasket, not sure what the new gasket # is. the AGCO dealer will ! #74036974, Bolt kit.
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AC 200, CAH, AC185D bareback, AC 180D bareback, D17 III, WF. D17 Blackbar grill, NF. D15 SFW. Case 1175 CAH, Bobcat 543B,
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MACK
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Posted: 08 Sep 2023 at 9:23pm |
If copper gaskets are leaking, it will be clean around injector and dust shields will usually be gone. Glue new gasket to valve cover with a good glue (3M 1099 or yellow window sealer) let dry over night, torque bolts until they all torque the same. MACK
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TimmyG185
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Posted: 09 Sep 2023 at 8:10am |
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Awesome thanks guys! Gasket should be in next week.
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tbran
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Posted: 10 Sep 2023 at 3:40pm |
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Something we started doing many years ago - we use 1/4" X6" bolts to replace the sometime almost impossible to get to Phillips head screws. Unless you have the belville washer set up this works neat because with a wrench you can better tighten the bolts evenly - just be sure not to over torque and bend the cover in. We also find that after a few heat/cool cycles the new cork gasket needs retorqueing ... Spreaders like was used on 409's and others available on line and at speed shops spread the pressure on each side of the bolt/screw on all but end bolts. Looks pretty neat as well and gets you away from a hot manifold.
Edited by tbran - 10 Sep 2023 at 3:41pm
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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MACK
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Posted: 10 Sep 2023 at 8:10pm |
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Don't you mean to say 1/4x3/4 bolts? I've got hands full of Phillips bolts that I have replaced over the years. MACK
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HudCo
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Posted: 10 Sep 2023 at 11:09pm |
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tbran it sounds like you trying to make those tee handle valve cover bolts like we used to have on the old chevys they realy did work well
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 11 Sep 2023 at 7:45am |
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Bet Tim means 6" long bolts with a nut screwed up to top of threads, creating a long handled bolt much like they sell for the chebbies. I use allen head bolts (1/4 X 3/4 or 1" long) with a lock washer, and just use my t handle wrench to tighten them. Hard to overtighten that way lol!
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 11 Sep 2023 at 12:43pm |
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I like Doc's .017 cold and forget.....no heat involved.
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DougG
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Posted: 11 Sep 2023 at 6:11pm |
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Funny you mentioned this bolt setup- seen that on a 210 at Boonville this last weekend!
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DrAllis
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Posted: 11 Sep 2023 at 7:08pm |
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The really long 1/4" bolts with nuts installed is very helpful on those 426 engines with intercoolers. Another inch of room would have been nice.
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