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Mikez 
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Joined: 16 Jan 2013
Location: Usa
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 Topic: 185 brake job
Posted: 08 Jul 2021 at 9:11pm |
Hello everyone What should be known to do this job. Our 185 we bought has been sitting for awhile and brakes don’t work. They were full of mice nests and one feels froze up, when cover was off tried to spray penetrating oil in there, with no success. And other side sorta works. We have a retired guy that wants to do it in our shop this winter. He’s done just about everything else mechanically so that’s not an issue. just not brakes on these type tractors. So I wanted to ask you all, see if there’s any tips. Thanks all
Edited by Mikez - 08 Jul 2021 at 9:12pm
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: 08 Jul 2021 at 9:28pm |
Refer to the service manual. You will need to ad or remove shims to get the proper measurement between the brake drum and the bearing carrier. Be sure to replace the axle seals while you are in there. On the right side, you will have to remove some of the traction booster linkage to get access - perfect time to clean up and lubricate all of the pivot points in that linkage to prevent future "hydraulics stuck in the raised position" issues.
Did the brakes on my 185 2 years ago. It's pretty straight forward but you may encounter a couple of difficulties: 1 - removing the lower pin on the hydraulic lift cylinders. If they are rusted up it will take longer. 2 - removing the top pin that the brake shoes ride on. They are a bear to get out. I cut the shoes off first, then cut the pin in the middle and removed each half separately.
The drums and shoes are no brainers.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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WF owner
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Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
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Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 5:37am |
After you get it apart, ship the whole assembly to Rick Corder and have him rebuild them. The product he uses to reline them is much better than anything you can buy.
If you have Rick do the rebuild, they will work better than when the tractor was new.
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Alvin M
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Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 7:55am |
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No need to pull the cylinders take back pin out take the hose fitting out of the cylinder housing will come off
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Alex09(WI)
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Joined: 15 Mar 2012
Location: CECIL WI
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Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 8:53am |
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Be sure to replace the axle seals in the differential bearing carriers/inner brake friction surface. You might want to consider using the metallic pad brake bands. They grab better if trying to stop a heavy load.
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jiminnd
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Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 5:10pm |
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I had mine full of mice, linkage stuck, they worked ok before then I sprayed WD 40, got everything loosened up but now the brakes are weak. Is there a way to clean the linings without disassembly or do I have to do new linings?
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1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner)
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DrAllis
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Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 5:20pm |
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"Weak" brake performance on those type of brakes usually means there is band lining gone on one or both bands, causing the steel band to rub on the cast iron drum instead of brake material. This makes the brakes perform like Fred Flintstone dragging his feet and also assumes there is no locking up while applying the weak brake, which would be a different problem. Might be one side or both. Using the 190XT type metallic bands on a 180/185 wouldn't be a great idea. They worked the best when HOT, like constant turning at ends of the field, especially when using duals. They did work better when hot, but were less effective when cold, so one might be disappointed with the results.
Edited by DrAllis - 09 Jul 2021 at 5:22pm
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Alex09(WI)
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Posted: 10 Jul 2021 at 11:32am |
 DrAllis wrote:
"Weak" brake performance on those type of brakes usually means there is band lining gone on one or both bands, causing the steel band to rub on the cast iron drum instead of brake material. This makes the brakes perform like Fred Flintstone dragging his feet and also assumes there is no locking up while applying the weak brake, which would be a different problem. Might be one side or both. Using the 190XT type metallic bands on a 180/185 wouldn't be a great idea. They worked the best when HOT, like constant turning at ends of the field, especially when using duals. They did work better when hot, but were less effective when cold, so one might be disappointed with the results.
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Interesting about the metallic bands being less effective. I plan to put them in my 170 loader tractor. Then I will have a feel for how they operate, better or worse than the normal linings that are in popular use.
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A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
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DrAllis
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Posted: 10 Jul 2021 at 6:02pm |
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Less effective when COLD. More effective when HOT.
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Rick
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Posted: 10 Jul 2021 at 6:10pm |
Dr. Allis is correct...I had a set of the metallic on a 190XT...warm weather was good...cold weather wasn't...I changed over to what I use now and sell to others...woven type with tons of the soft brass in the material...will stop very well and turn the same way when the brakes are applied...does NOT harm the drums at all...
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tbran
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Posted: 10 Jul 2021 at 11:21pm |
after all these years , someone should have developed a hyd disc brake conversion kit...
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 10 Jul 2021 at 11:48pm |
tbran wrote:
after all these years , someone should have developed a hyd disc brake conversion kit...
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35yrs ago I saw a D21 puller with disc brakes mounted on the bull pinion shaft. Seemed simple enough at the time but I don't remember much these days...
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Mikez
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Posted: 11 Jul 2021 at 12:01am |
thanks guys. So what should we do. We have enough nos re lining kits to do one full side. Use them or have the old ones done by Rick
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 11 Jul 2021 at 12:42am |
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Sounds like you'd be happier with Rick's friction material. Sounded like they work better than OEM.
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Rick
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Posted: 11 Jul 2021 at 6:15am |
The material I use on the brake bands is what I was talking about and it lasts a good while, because I tried it out on my own equipment, before I ever thought about selling it to anyone. I used it on D19's in the hills here in Missouri and put it to the test and they lasted a good three years, but then I was on the brakes a LOT, too! The brake drum material is good stuff too though and has a lot of brass particles in it as well. I think what a lot of it is, is that folks don't do the shimming process like they should, because it takes too much time, etc.. They replace the material on the drum brakes and that's it....Rick
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Mikez
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Posted: 11 Jul 2021 at 10:52am |
thanks Rick Ok for the seals. Could you put a picture of parts book of what’s needed or the part numbers needed. Please Thank you
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Rick
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Posted: 11 Jul 2021 at 11:31am |
Mike...I don't normally mess with the seals and that...I just work on clutches and brakes...  Rick
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Mikez
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Posted: 11 Jul 2021 at 11:53am |
I didn’t mean you sorry. For Alex or someone.
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Alex09(WI)
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Posted: 11 Jul 2021 at 9:54pm |
When I do a brake job on 185 or similar, parts list is: 2-218450 seals 2-276914 linings 2-923820 o-rings 4-brake band halves/lining kits
8-905371 balls 4-250435 springs 4-250447 springs
sometimes I need: 237217, top pin 237210, bottom brake rod pin
not including misc shims if necessary
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www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
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