170 ROPS on a WD 45

Anyone have any experience with this project?  I`m told the swap is a possibility and might be quite simple. 

I understand. A 170 ROPS is available to me at a good price and I`m thinking that it can be adapted. As 45 rear axles level with frame rails, maybe mount uprights TO frame rails tilting back then modify canopy to narrowed uprights. May interfere with hand clutch though. 

What would it take to put a 170 ROPS on a factory open station 7000?

Seat Belts

When a tractor overturns, the ROPS is designed to do two things. First, in many situations, the ROPS will limit the overturn to roughly 90 degrees. In other words, when a tractor overturns to the side, the ROPS prevents the tractor from rolling farther than just landing on its side. If the tractor overturns to the rear, the ROPS will often limit the overturn to roughly 90 degrees, so the tractor stops with its nose pointed up into the air. Second, if the overturn has enough energy to cause the tractor to roll over onto its top, or in the case of a side overturn on a steep slope, even continue rolling past that point and make one or more complete rolls, the ROPS is designed not to crush, but to create a “zone of protection” that keeps the tractor from crushing the operator.

The seat belt is intended to keep the operator inside that zone of protection. The more violent the overturn, the more likely the rotating force will throw the operator outside the zone of protection. Many operators think they can jump clear, and while that has happened on occasion, overturns usually occur so quickly that a person cannot jump clear of the tractor. Seat belts also have the added benefit of protecting against falls from the tractor when going over rough ground, or if the tractor is struck by another vehicle on the road.

It is often assumed that the seat belt must be worn for the ROPS to be effective. For the ROPS to be effective in all situations, this is true. However, some tractor owners who have decided they will not wear the seat belt then decide not to retrofit a ROPS, because they think without the seat belt buckled, the ROPS will not provide any protection. This is a false assumption. A ROPS without the seat belt is better than no ROPS at all. Don’t decide against a retrofit ROPS just because you doubt you will wear the seat belt.

There are two reasons why a ROPS without seat belt is better than no ROPS at all. First, as mentioned previously, in a rear overturn, tractors with ROPS will usually rotate about 90 degrees and stop with the nose up in the air. The operator would most likely still be in the seat even without fastening the seat belt. Without a ROPS, the tractor will go all the way over and crush the operator. If a tractor with ROPS does roll all the way over in a rear overturn, the tractor will not land flat on top of you. Second, many side overturns are slow enough that the tractor only rotates about 90 degrees and ends up on its side. While it is still possible for the operator to fall from the zone of protection and land beneath the tractor or the ROPS, it is also quite possible to stay in the seat or operator’s station and not be injured, or suffer only minor injuries. Of course, wearing the seat belt is the safest thing to do.

   I have been driving a WD 45 since I could use the hand clutch.  That set up would not even keep from crushing the fuel tank. The operator sits so much farther back than the "flimsy" set up that it is useless. The ROPs needs to be installed "AROUND" the operator. You would be better off fabbing something maybe, than cobbing something borrowed from a totally different tractor.   Duane A Renko      PS, I am 55 .

Dads 45 wrote: Anyone have any experience with this project?  I`m told the swap is a possibility and might be quite simple.  Taking a ROPS from a 170 and installing on a WD 45. If there is some fabbing necessary, that`s fine.

I have put a ROPS on my 185! Keep in mind this is a factory 3-point!

If you try to put one on a WD/WD45 it will be on a l o o n g time as they are not easy to remove and install.

First you want to be sure you have good breaks, seals, etc in the rear end and transmission.
There is a large plate that attaches under the transmission and Differential, clearance around items needed for servicing, front attaches where the snap coupler is now; you may not be able to retain the snap coupler, and the rear uses two large cap screws with spacers inserted up into the differential housing.

On a WD/WD45 I doubt if you will be able to retain the PTO shaft.

Next there are a large angle bracket fastened to the plat, the upright part will secure the long uprights, lightly secured by the tabs on the rear axle housing(fender plate tabs) will be tightened later. Oh, you will need a skyhook or at minimum a forklift with tall mast to lift the uprights over and hold while securing to brackets and plate, do not tighten yet, they will be tightened later. Now you are ready to install the top cross bar, again with a forklift, and finally the Canopy with a forklift.
I mentioned a forklift., a tractor with loader will also work but all I had available to me was a forklift.
Tighten bolts to their proper torque.

I highly recommend you obtain a later 185 operators manual as it has the instructions on doing this on a 185, also pertains to a 170/175. Shows all the required bolts and torques and where to cut fenders.

I've thought about putting a canopy top on a loader frame, simpler!

All things considered...NO on putting this ROPS on a WD45!




Edited by JoeO(CMO) - 05 Apr 2017 at 4:34am