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HD6E Locked up

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mudmizer View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 May 2010
Location: Virden Il
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    Posted: 12 May 2010 at 8:45pm
Bought first dozer about a month ago. Been working fine till last weekend. While dragging blade in reverse a loud bang and now no movement. I have a couple of manuals and started reading. I found transmission with no fluid in it to speak of. I was able to get all three shifting forks back to neutral position and nothing inside seem broken. The beast will start just fine it just wont let me pull clutch to engage transmission without pulling down engine and dying. Even in neutral. My question is this, if throwout bearing is out in clutch would it create this scenario. I am going back out to work on it this weekend. I am going to pull the u joints to separate the trans from clutch to find out which side is the issue. According to my book the trans is supplied with oil from the steering clutch and brake hydraulic system from oil lines from brake valve. I dont see any such lines on mine. To me it looks like the trans is filled from the top to a side plug and is a sealed unit. I am going to ad trans type one fluid but book also says to use sae 10w. Anyone have a preference? I am also going to check fluid level of clutch assbly and pull top access cover to get an eye on the situation in clutch housing. I am an appliance technician and have to tell you I have a great deal of respect to whomever works on these dozers. Also shows me  they were built with pride!
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D-17_Dave View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote D-17_Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 10:14pm
I'm no expert at all on the dozer line, but if it pulls the engine down even in neutral then it sounds like you have a locked up bearing or a set of gears with debris jambed between the teeth locking things up. I'd be looking into the tranny real well. Might be able to remove the cover and hold the clutch in and turn the gear section backwards and find something.
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dadsdozerhd5b View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dadsdozerhd5b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2010 at 4:50am
before you tear into everything, just put the trans in neutral and clutch in and see if the driveshaft will move even a little bit. try to see where the binding is. if not, remove the driveshaft to isolate the two like you said. what is the serial number and does it have dry brakes? if it is an older one, the trans and ring and pinion share the same oil. sounds like the input bearing went south. post some pics of what you have. does it have the allis engine or buda?
HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gemdozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2010 at 4:59am

 Just for make sure  your hd6e  has a dry master cluch and stering cluch or wet

and yes remove the drive shaft and try to angaged the master cluch with running motor and if she is oké try to turne the transmission yoke  with the shifter in neutral position
you should find the probleme.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2010 at 8:11am
Sounds to me like a gear seized to the main-shaft as you stated the trans was low and you had to fight the forks to neutral.  All manual trans gears win neutral will rock or twist with gear lash, check yours, any that will not move are most likely seized and just dissassembly will be a bear!
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dadsdozerhd5b View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dadsdozerhd5b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2010 at 4:36pm
once you isolate the problem, if you need parts, i have 3 transmissions and parts if you need them. they are from hd5&6 so we will need to verify serial number. there was a manual for hd6 transmissions on e-bay which sounds like you might need. good luck.
HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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mudmizer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mudmizer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2010 at 7:51pm
Thanks guys for the input. I will get the serial numbers this weekend, not written in the book I have for some reason. The driveshaft does want to turn when I try to engage clutch, maybe 1/8 inch at most. I will also try to figure which engine and try to get some pics of everything and post.  Thanks again for the help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2010 at 8:35pm
I had the rear bearing cage split, sending the balls into trany and locking it . Also could be front bearing where cage is bad or balls froze to race.
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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mudmizer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mudmizer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2010 at 10:00pm
Thanks for all the help. I took off the ujoint and found it was the  trans. Had a fully equipped repair guy take a look and said the lack of oil did it in. While in Quincy he found a used trans. for us so is now rebuilding that. Hopefully we'll have it back and running within the week. Again thanks for all the replies and helpful advice. I am an appliance tech so if someone has a ? about anything of that nature just give a shout. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mudmizer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2010 at 12:02am
Just another update. The newly rebuilt transmission is working great. Now my next issue is it is killing the batteries. I installed new one today, started great. Ran for about 10 minutes and would not start. Either generator not recharging batteries, or I believe something to do with the generator regulator. Im recharging the batteries this week and am looking for the regulator. I'll let you know if I'm successful.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gemdozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2010 at 5:19am
I am not sure but the batteries should be positif ground 24volts
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mudmizer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2010 at 8:06am
Not sure what positive ground means. Both batteries are 1000 cca, each terminal hooked up as should be. All wiring looks good and are in proper place per schematic. I took the regulator cover off and one of the coils looked pretty rough. All three were covered in a fine metal greasy residue from the magnetic properties, just looked worn out. I'm stopping by a local tractor place today and am having them take a look. Thanks for the input. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ages Cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2010 at 8:49pm
Per the AC /FA Electrical systems guide the system has two 12 volt batteries wired  in this manner.  Negative  post on the right battery goes to starter solenoid. Positive post goes to negative post of left battery. Positive post of left battery goes to master switch, which goes to  ground. This is used with a generator system.

Thus positive ground.
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