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HD6E Locked up

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12369
Printed Date: 19 Jul 2025 at 10:05am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: HD6E Locked up

Posted By: mudmizer
Subject: HD6E Locked up
Date Posted: 12 May 2010 at 8:45pm

Bought first dozer about a month ago. Been working fine till last weekend. While dragging blade in reverse a loud bang and now no movement. I have a couple of manuals and started reading. I found transmission with no fluid in it to speak of. I was able to get all three shifting forks back to neutral position and nothing inside seem broken. The beast will start just fine it just wont let me pull clutch to engage transmission without pulling down engine and dying. Even in neutral. My question is this, if throwout bearing is out in clutch would it create this scenario. I am going back out to work on it this weekend. I am going to pull the u joints to separate the trans from clutch to find out which side is the issue. According to my book the trans is supplied with oil from the steering clutch and brake hydraulic system from oil lines from brake valve. I dont see any such lines on mine. To me it looks like the trans is filled from the top to a side plug and is a sealed unit. I am going to ad trans type one fluid but book also says to use sae 10w. Anyone have a preference? I am also going to check fluid level of clutch assbly and pull top access cover to get an eye on the situation in clutch housing. I am an appliance technician and have to tell you I have a great deal of respect to whomever works on these dozers. Also shows me they were built with pride!

Replies:

Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 12 May 2010 at 10:14pm

I'm no expert at all on the dozer line, but if it pulls the engine down even in neutral then it sounds like you have a locked up bearing or a set of gears with debris jambed between the teeth locking things up. I'd be looking into the tranny real well. Might be able to remove the cover and hold the clutch in and turn the gear section backwards and find something.

Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 13 May 2010 at 4:50am

before you tear into everything, just put the trans in neutral and clutch in and see if the driveshaft will move even a little bit. try to see where the binding is. if not, remove the driveshaft to isolate the two like you said. what is the serial number and does it have dry brakes? if it is an older one, the trans and ring and pinion share the same oil. sounds like the input bearing went south. post some pics of what you have. does it have the allis engine or buda?

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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.

Posted By: gemdozer
Date Posted: 13 May 2010 at 4:59am

Just for make sure your hd6e has a dry master cluch and stering cluch or wet

and yes remove the drive shaft and try to angaged the master cluch with running motor and if she is oké try to turne the transmission yoke with the shifter in neutral position

you should find the probleme.

Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 13 May 2010 at 8:11am

Sounds to me like a gear seized to the main-shaft as you stated the trans was low and you had to fight the forks to neutral. All manual trans gears win neutral will rock or twist with gear lash, check yours, any that will not move are most likely seized and just dissassembly will be a bear!

Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 13 May 2010 at 4:36pm

once you isolate the problem, if you need parts, i have 3 transmissions and parts if you need them. they are from hd5&6 so we will need to verify serial number. there was a manual for hd6 transmissions on e-bay which sounds like you might need. good luck.

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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.

Posted By: mudmizer
Date Posted: 13 May 2010 at 7:51pm

Thanks guys for the input. I will get the serial numbers this weekend, not written in the book I have for some reason. The driveshaft does want to turn when I try to engage clutch, maybe 1/8 inch at most. I will also try to figure which engine and try to get some pics of everything and post. Thanks again for the help.

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 13 May 2010 at 8:35pm

I had the rear bearing cage split, sending the balls into trany and locking it . Also could be front bearing where cage is bad or balls froze to race.

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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."

Posted By: mudmizer
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2010 at 10:00pm

Thanks for all the help. I took off the ujoint and found it was the trans. Had a fully equipped repair guy take a look and said the lack of oil did it in. While in Quincy he found a used trans. for us so is now rebuilding that. Hopefully we'll have it back and running within the week. Again thanks for all the replies and helpful advice. I am an appliance tech so if someone has a ? about anything of that nature just give a shout.

Posted By: mudmizer
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2010 at 12:02am

Just another update. The newly rebuilt transmission is working great. Now my next issue is it is killing the batteries. I installed new one today, started great. Ran for about 10 minutes and would not start. Either generator not recharging batteries, or I believe something to do with the generator regulator. Im recharging the batteries this week and am looking for the regulator. I'll let you know if I'm successful.

Posted By: gemdozer
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2010 at 5:19am

I am not sure but the batteries should be positif ground 24volts

Posted By: mudmizer
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2010 at 8:06am

Not sure what positive ground means. Both batteries are 1000 cca, each terminal hooked up as should be. All wiring looks good and are in proper place per schematic. I took the regulator cover off and one of the coils looked pretty rough. All three were covered in a fine metal greasy residue from the magnetic properties, just looked worn out. I'm stopping by a local tractor place today and am having them take a look. Thanks for the input.

Posted By: Ages Cat
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2010 at 8:49pm

Per the AC /FA Electrical systems guide the system has two 12 volt batteries wired in this manner. Negative post on the right battery goes to starter solenoid. Positive post goes to negative post of left battery. Positive post of left battery goes to master switch, which goes to ground. This is used with a generator system.

Thus positive ground.