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Allis D15 rear end-gas/diesel? UPDATE and pics.

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JayD-17(NY) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayD-17(NY) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Allis D15 rear end-gas/diesel? UPDATE and pics.
    Posted: 30 May 2017 at 9:21am
The rear ends on a D15 Gas are the same as a Diesel's,  aren't they????.....Would the Diesel engine, with it's flywheel bolt right into a rear of a gas?

Edited by JayD-17(NY) - 31 May 2017 at 1:23pm
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DSeries4 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2017 at 9:03pm
I think so but not cartain.  Mine has a D14 transmission in it.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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AJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2017 at 6:26am
Yes the diesel/gas rear ends are the same. series 2 d15 has a couple gear ratio differences on a two of the gears but not really noticeable. d14 and d15 trans are the same otherwise. Now, I believe the finals for the d14 and early d15s are the same. I know the series 2 had a slightly wider stance.
Can't fix stupid
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2017 at 7:16am
Flywheels are different between gas and diesel.
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AJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2017 at 8:06am
As are the front engine support that goes between the frame rails.
Can't fix stupid
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JoeO(CMO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeO(CMO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2017 at 9:06am
The difference I would be looking at is if you are restoring a diesel, look for a torque housing with a "D" after the unit serial number.
I have gas Series II torque housings but if you have a diesel, look for one with a "D". 




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2017 at 9:49am
There are some fellows from Ga that will tell you serial numbers don't mean a thing. They will sell you any number you're looking for, only problem, they don't know up from down. 
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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JayD-17(NY) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayD-17(NY) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2017 at 12:45pm
I have a D15 diesel, I've been trying to sell for since last fall. It's greatest drawback is that it pops out of high range.....I recently came across a couple of D15 gas parts tractors.

I will try to add a pic of one I may make an offer on soon. Motor is seized and needs a new tire, other than that I'm told the rest of the tractor was in very good condition. Judging from the pics, even the sheet metal looks good and straight.

If I can get it bought right, my idea is to offer it along with the diesel as a good parts source. Someone can chose to buy it all with the diesel or just take whats needed/compatible with the diesel and I'd sell/scrap the rest....

The parts tractor, at least in the pics looks almost too nice to part out - ALMOST!.....a used gas engine and good used tire and someone could maybe have a  cheap D15 GAS.....



Edited by JayD-17(NY) - 31 May 2017 at 1:11pm
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JayD-17(NY) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayD-17(NY) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2017 at 12:47pm
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JayD-17(NY) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayD-17(NY) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2017 at 12:55pm
My diesel:


It's greatest asset, besides a sound block and head on the motor , are it's rear rims and tires.......someone good save these and put them on the parts tractor.......and from the power director back, mount to the diesel......

and yes, given it's a rare and collectible tractor (though doesn't seem to mean jack in the current market as far as sale-ability)..one would have to do a little extra work to exchange torque tubes to preserve the serial # ending in "D". 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2017 at 3:26pm
Popping out of high range may only be that an adjustment is needed for the power director. This is an easier process than what is seems when you read the instructions in the service manual. Just have the manual on a stand so you can read and do each step in the process.  
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Brian Jasper co. Ia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2017 at 3:38pm
Couldn't you just split the tractor like you would for a power director repair and just put the gas rear on it?
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2017 at 3:49pm
Jumping out of high range can sometimes be repaired by removing some flat washers from the stop bolt that the long hand lever rests against when in high range. Before doing anything else to repair that issue, remove some flat washers first.
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JayD-17(NY) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayD-17(NY) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2017 at 9:21pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Jumping out of high range can sometimes be repaired by removing some flat washers from the stop bolt that the long hand lever rests against when in high range. Before doing anything else to repair that issue, remove some flat washers first.

I'll have to look at that again over the weekend, but I think that's one of the first things I checked when I got the tractor last year. If I'm remembering correctly, I don't think the hand clutch touches the stop bolt at all when fully forward in high range.
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