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XT 190 SUB FREEZING TEMP OPERATION ??

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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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    Posted: 31 Oct 2019 at 5:16pm
Due to harvest conditions beyond our control, looks like "our" corn harvest won't happen until at least January OuchCry. What should I try to do to make the XT   run as "comfy" as possible? Normally, our harvest is complete, tractors,disc(we disc stalks after harvest) and the F2 are put away for the season by the first week of November.
The XT has no block heater but I can get it into a heated shop for overnight parking, the F2 has a block heater and our auger tractor in a 180 gasser that will start at any temp.
The XT is the delegated wagon hauler out of the field so it doesn't get "worked" hard for any length of time so I am unsure as to leave it run between haul times or shut it down during fills/unload cycles?? Should cardboard be installed in front of ANY of the above machines radiators to help? This is ALL NEW TERRITORY for me Unhappy . Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wheatbreeder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2019 at 5:58pm
installing a bockheater  in the xt is not that expensive that would be my first move  if your are worried about the xt not starting because of cool down it will retain enough block temp for 3 or 4 hour and should restart easily 
we run a r40 duetz air diesel no  auxiliary  heating point is once it is started and warmed up it retains  block heat for 3-4 hours 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2019 at 8:35pm
Without a doubt a block heater is the way to go. As said above, the block will retain heat for a period of time depending upon the temperature that you experience. What is the temperature in January where you live?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2019 at 8:40pm
Originally posted by AC720Man AC720Man wrote:

Without a doubt a block heater is the way to go. As said above, the block will retain heat for a period of time depending upon the temperature that you experience. What is the temperature in January where you live?
Lows could be as low as 5 and highs in the teens. I have looked on both sides of the block but have seen no mounting location for a block heater?? It's a flat fendered '69 series 2
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanWi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2019 at 10:11pm
A good thermostat should help when it is running, I wouldn't completely block the radiator because those old fan blades have a tendency to break and I think that doesn't help that. Block heater is needed if out in the cold but if you can put it in a heated shop you will be ok. Probably find something in an old post but you need to use a circulating tank heater, go in the block behind starter near the oil pressure sender there should be a plug to the water jacket and then route around the front of the engine and put a T in where you temp sender is. Hard combining when it gets real cold hard on bearings and tires with frozen corn stalks. When it gets real cold I would tend to leave the tractor run more your choice your fuel bill. We are in the same boat here just had 4 inches of snow and 4 the other day, hopefully we get some warm weather yet to melt the snow but will wish it to freeze so we aren't playing in the mud. And the corn needs to dry more.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AaronSEIA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2019 at 6:09am
Block heater, check the antifreeze, let it idle at about 1,000 rpm or so.  Good to go.  I've done a lot of harvesting in the cold.  Not too big of a deal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2019 at 6:43am
Completely cover radiator, then cut a round hole at middle of fan. Partly cover will cause fan blade to flex as it goes past open area.    MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2019 at 5:11pm
Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

Completely cover radiator, then cut a round hole at middle of fan. Partly cover will cause fan blade to flex as it goes past open area.    MACK
Thanks for the info, but should the hole be the same size as the fan ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2019 at 7:04pm
That would defeat the purpose...make it a foot or so in dia?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2019 at 8:51pm
A 6" hole would be enough in cold weather.       MACk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2019 at 10:18pm
I'm assuming its a diesel. If so you will need to blend the fuel. At that time of year you should be running a mixture of 50% #1 fuel and 50% #2. You can use kerosene if you can't find #1 fuel. You should be running a 10 micron fuel filter at that time of year, especially if your diesel comes from a truck stop or convience store.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2019 at 6:26pm
Originally posted by HD6GTOM HD6GTOM wrote:

I'm assuming its a diesel. If so you will need to blend the fuel. At that time of year you should be running a mixture of 50% #1 fuel and 50% #2. You can use kerosene if you can't find #1 fuel. You should be running a 10 micron fuel filter at that time of year, especially if your diesel comes from a truck stop or convience store.
 
I was thinking about the "gelling" issue. Yes, the combine  and XT are diesels, unsure of the filter microns though. Kerosene will have to suffice, several local stations have it on hand.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2019 at 10:18pm
Your F2’s 433I should have an electric intake heat element. These intake elements heat incoming air, so engine isn’t breathing cold air at start up. Maybe it’s something you could add to your XTs 301?? Anyway invest in some good starter batteries for combine & XT. A healthy pair of batteries can make a huge difference on cold mornings or even after an engine has cooled down(5-6 hours later?) later in day.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2019 at 11:51pm
Originally posted by FREEDGUY FREEDGUY wrote:

Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

Completely cover radiator, then cut a round hole at middle of fan. Partly cover will cause fan blade to flex as it goes past open area.    MACK
Thanks for the info, but should the hole be the same size as the fan ??


A little more description here, just for those who misunderstand:

IF you block off a fan completely, it gets no air to 'push' or 'pull.

If you open up a hole on just ONE side, the blade is unloaded through most of a rotation, but when it gets to the hole, it has a load, so the blade is pulled towards the hole... until it clears the hole, then it flexes back.  As the blades spin, each one deflects towards that hole, and eventually, the fan tears itself apart.

People often make this mistake by dropping a sheet of cardboard under the hood of a car or truck.  Airflow is blocked in all but just a few inches of the TOP, and not long after, they've got a water-pump bearing that's failed, from being loaded only on the top side... and it's not unusual to see that the fan blades have started to crack at the point where they're riveted to the hub.

Mack's note is to cut a hole through the covering, CENTERED on the fan.  Let's say the fan is 18" in diameter... you cut a 10" hole, centered on the fan, it will load the blades evenly, albeit lightly, through that 10" hole, so as to not set the blades into death-oscillation.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2019 at 7:39am
Operation in expected cold temps all the time, would be wise to use 10W-30 diesel oil for easier starting and remove the sediment bowl screens to prevent gelling at that point. Once you have seen gelling at a bowl screen, you will throw them away.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2019 at 8:37am
why not treat fuel with power service or cold weather treatment?  seems like a lot of hassle to get kerosene and blend it when a few ounces from a bottle will do the trick and help with lubricity.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Amos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2019 at 9:13am
I think there is some very interesting advice in this thread.  You guys should come up and help us take corn off heavy clay ground in January and Februaryafter it has frozen and the snow is little or so cold it goes right through the combine.  As for starting a 190XT in those conditions I would not be at all concerned, my experience is they start real well.  Now a 4W305 on the grain buggy is a totally different story, let me tell you, the block heater and a generator for a couple hours and she will fire like the middle of summer!  Without the block heater, do not even try.  I have never added kerosene to diesel fuel in a tractor, ever.  I have seen diesel fuel gel, but mostly it was summer fuel when in the 0 F or less.  I add a bottle of Howes lube to every 1000 gallons of fuel in my storage tank and I have not had a gel problem since doing so.  

Oh, and all that curse the Deutz engines in the gleaner combine, you will smile when it fires on the third revolution with no either or block heater in that cold temperature.

I would not worry yourself too much,  a block heater will help start both those engines. I have no experience with an F2 but I have a 6060 and it will fire when 10 below without the block heater or air intake heater, its not happy about it but it go,  will if left outside.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2019 at 3:17pm
I have a similar 190xt model and here is a prior post on installing a block heater into the frost plug in case you want to do that.  Since our model doesn't have the easy to use block heater port pre-installed in the engine use the frost plug above the starter.  Mine had so much dirt around it, I couldn't see it.  It was a pain to do this in my opinion.  It starts right up though using the block heater after 2 hours in subzero weather so worth it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2019 at 3:21pm
No leaks after 2 years either.  So, buy the Zero Start version.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2019 at 5:27pm
Originally posted by DaveKamp DaveKamp wrote:

Originally posted by FREEDGUY FREEDGUY wrote:

Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

Completely cover radiator, then cut a round hole at middle of fan. Partly cover will cause fan blade to flex as it goes past open area.    MACK
Thanks for the info, but should the hole be the same size as the fan ??


A little more description here, just for those who misunderstand:

IF you block off a fan completely, it gets no air to 'push' or 'pull.

If you open up a hole on just ONE side, the blade is unloaded through most of a rotation, but when it gets to the hole, it has a load, so the blade is pulled towards the hole... until it clears the hole, then it flexes back.  As the blades spin, each one deflects towards that hole, and eventually, the fan tears itself apart.
Dave, thank you for the detailed explanation of WHY the precaution of what MACK suggested. I had no idea that a fan blade could flex to the point of breaking. Is this all A/C models or a select few? Thanks again to you and ALL of the posters with input!!!

People often make this mistake by dropping a sheet of cardboard under the hood of a car or truck.  Airflow is blocked in all but just a few inches of the TOP, and not long after, they've got a water-pump bearing that's failed, from being loaded only on the top side... and it's not unusual to see that the fan blades have started to crack at the point where they're riveted to the hub.

Mack's note is to cut a hole through the covering, CENTERED on the fan.  Let's say the fan is 18" in diameter... you cut a 10" hole, centered on the fan, it will load the blades evenly, albeit lightly, through that 10" hole, so as to not set the blades into death-oscillation.
Thanks for the explanation of why MACK suggested what he did. Is the fan flexing pertaining to certain A/C models or all fans in general? Thanks to every one with advise!!


Edited by FREEDGUY - 05 Nov 2019 at 5:31pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2019 at 9:29pm
Any fan.        MACK.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote levipatch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2019 at 7:07pm
following this imfo I have a ? .. The small external block heater plumbed on my D 17 Diesel. I tested it today, it appears to draw about 700 watts or so. Gets very hot to touch in a matter of mins. Now for the ?  Is it convection flow ? Should it make weird sounds in the  water , sounds like flow issues .not that anything is wrong, hose becomes hot Purdy quick. Caught me by surprise, so I stopped till I know more... but could it heat too fast or just let it do its job... I would assume in an hour or so block ,or whole engine would be at operating temp. All my big engines have internal heaters, you plug up and forget. never hear nothing. This heater is BIZZY..
Billy..Big cam 300, bcam 400,,941 CAT.,,Deere excavator..900 row crop.. 66 D 17 diesel IV... 985 Pratt and Whitney..4360 Pratt and Whitney... gitten tired !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2019 at 8:33am
I assume you have a tank heater in the radiator hoses since you say you plumbed it.  I have a Katz 1500W on another non-AC tractor, and yes it gets hot quickly and it works by convection.  Hot waters rises, cold water sinks, so that is why the tank heater gets installed as low as possible near the lower radiator and then follows hose to the upper radiator.  Tank heater takes much longer to heat up the engine over a block heater though.  Like maybe an extra hour or two in really cold weather.  Mine makes noises when it first starts up mostly.  Of course, I know it is working when I touch it and hear it, and I walk away, so not sure how much noise it makes after that.  What you describe sounds normal to me for my Katz.  You also need to make sure your coolant is full.  I had coolant get low and it couldn't circulate so the engine didn't get hot.  I thought the unit failed at first.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote levipatch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2019 at 6:12pm
Thanks , that kinda what I figured , just suprized me . didn't want to blow hose  off or worse.. knew somebody had experienced that. Think I will just plug it up , walk away and check later....... Thanks  Billy
Billy..Big cam 300, bcam 400,,941 CAT.,,Deere excavator..900 row crop.. 66 D 17 diesel IV... 985 Pratt and Whitney..4360 Pratt and Whitney... gitten tired !
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