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Wood BatWing 315 gear box teardown

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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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    Posted: 09 Nov 2023 at 4:11pm
Son got a 315 about a year ago and i came on here to get info for repairs.. Welded up the frame, new drive shafts, U-Joints, tires , cleaned and painted.... They used it to cut 25 acres a couple times this summer... Now i am going to disassemble one wing gear box and replace the bearings.

Blade / hub unit came off easy.. Nice design. Got the box out no problem  ( this is the one that has the square drive shaft thru the center of the box).. Took side plate off and pulled the bevel gear and shaft.  The PINION is looks and wiggles up and down 1/8 inch. Pulled the seal off the end and i can see the sleeve that sets up against the bearing. I was ASSUMING i would find an adjustment nut to set the bearing preload ???  Nothing there... Pounded on shaft and it does not want to move ?   What holds the lower bearing #16 UP into the hosing ?  How do i get the shaft  #15 OUT ??  It appears you just POUND HARDER... but how do you adjust the bearings ?

#20 is the seal, #21 is a washer and #22 is a sheet metal dust cover..





Edited by steve(ill) - 09 Nov 2023 at 4:13pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2023 at 4:18pm
last year


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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2023 at 8:09pm
MAN... i cant find NOTHING on line about the gearbox or how to assemble it... Its obvious that nothing on the box photo above is holding the bearings / preload to any point.. So i looked at the BLADE/ HUB and there appears to be a couple SHIMS on the mounting bolt ???  Im wondering if  you put loctite on the sleeve below the bearing and tap it in so you have a few thousands clearance and let it dry............. install on mower and then slide the blade hub on the bottom until it TOUCHES the sleeve above ??... Then measure the stand out and add shims to get to ZERO.... and the HUB holds the sleeve and bearing into place ( with the original loctite ???


That is ODD way to do it...... If thats the case, then i should be able to HEAT the sleeve and then pound the shaft upward into the housing ???   Just dont want to break anything.. Just wondering if anyone has see this before or done this ?.... #121 , 122 look like shims ?



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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2023 at 8:54am
Just replaced the housing on a 72in model this summer. Same kind of construction. There are some shims for brg play as you think. I think it took light press work to remove/install the output shaft through the brgs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2023 at 12:42pm
YEA... i got it apart.. Thought maybe shock load would be better than a press... I heated the seal sleeve and then put a brass plate on the end of shaft and smacked it 10 times HARD with a 5 pound hammer... Then measured and it move 1/4 inch...... So i kept that up... about 50 WHACKS later and its off....... Measured the bearing and shaft and about .001 interference fit ....... Will buy new bearings and seals... Guess they should be heated to slide on the shaft and pushed into position... The DONT move easy !.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov 2023 at 1:01am
I wouldn't put any significant heat (i.e. not a flame or induction coil) on anything for that... at 0.001" interference, I'd just make sure surfaces were clean and lightly oiled, engagement was straight, and press it.  If I was REALLY concerned, mebbie I'd put the inner component in the freezer... but not much more.  I'd probably put a little dychem on the teeth and rotate it, check tooth interface issues.

The gearbox's circumstance will naturally self-heat in operation, and it has a very generous operating tolerance, so what it feels like at room (shop) temperature, and what it experiences in the field are significantly different.  I don't think there's enough criticality in there that they would've felt inclined to publish a tech document on it... or they just say "Call your dealer", right? Confused
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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