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DIESEL 
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Joined: 26 Aug 2013
Location: Sandhills
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 Topic: Wiring led lights on 7050
Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 12:58pm |
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I've got 3 of the 20" led light bars im installing on the stadium light brackets. Are you guys using relays on the led's or just using heavy amp switches and fusing them. Tia
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Ron(AB)
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Location: Alberta
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Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 1:45pm |
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Relays & circuit breaker...
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405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk
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Ron(AB)
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Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 1:47pm |
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Show us a pic when you have them installed.
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405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk
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Stan R
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Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 2:40pm |
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What is the total amps per switch?
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Tbone95
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Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 2:55pm |
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I'm a bit confused....How do the light bar amps compare to the original stadium lights?
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DIESEL
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Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 3:04pm |
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The light bars i have are 8 amps each and 126 watts. I was planning on running 12 or14 gauge wire one to the back and one to the front, fuse at the battery and use some heavy duty toggle switches.
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Stan R
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Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 3:30pm |
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If each bar is switched, I'd forget about the relay path and just get a good 15 amp weather proof switch, and fuse it. FYI though: 126 watts is about 10.5 amps..... at 12V.
Edited by Stan R - 01 Feb 2021 at 3:33pm
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calico190xt68
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Joined: 12 Jan 2017
Location: Frankton, IN
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Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 3:45pm |
Well, maybe I screwed up on my 7010 but I thought the amps would be about the same or less as the original stadium lights. So I just replaced the stadium lights with light bar on back and light bar in the front and used original wiring. My stadium light switches do work and I have had no problems so far. I have used them for an extended period of time like about 4 hours. If your switches don't work or you want to wire directly into the battery then relay/switches would be wise.
I do want to say that I am very happy with light bar in back. It is wider than the front and I was able to get a good angle downwards. I can see equipment very well.
The light bar in the front is probably going to get taken out. The problem is that I can't see out to my left and right. The light bar can only be pointed forward. A curved one probably can't curve enough. Original stadium lights can be pointed about any direction.
I replaced my standard cab lights with a 4 inch LED blub that went into the original enclosure and those are great. I did lose high and low beam due to the style bulb I bought. I think those same bulbs can be placed into the original stadium lights as a flood light bulb. So, I am going to try that. I can swivel those stadium lights. If I can't replace the bulbs in original enclosure with LEDs, then I will probably buy 4 LED lights and mount them.
Even though the muffler is supposed to be black, I was also get reflecting glare of the muffler back into the cabin from the front light bar. With original lights that won't happen.
I also replaced the light on the back fender with an led that has side lights. It just barely clears the window when opening it. It provides great light on the 3 pt mounted hay mower.
I am also considering mounting two lights that point directly in front by mounting on the frame rail, so that I can see forward better. I don't want to drill a hole into the sheet metal. Those would have to be wired directly to battery with switch and fuse since there is no equivalent light there. I had to drill a hole for the bale monitor so I already have a place to run a wire to a switch.
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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DIESEL
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Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 5:56pm |
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I'm starting from scratch the 7050 doesn't even have the holes in the cab for the stadium light bars. I'm kinda old school when it comes to lights, I didn't know a guy was supposed to use relays for led's, I just figured heavy duty switches from Napa and some heavy 3 wire cord and some fuses would work. Thanks
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 6:42pm |
It never hurts to install a relay(s) down stream of any load. Doesn't matter if its LED's or regular lamps. The LED lamps do pull less power than standard lamps, but if you start lining em' up like solders on the roof, it's always best to use a relays and circuit breakers. Also, do yourself a favor, use a good 30 amp push/pull switch to control power to the lamps. Standard toggle switches are only good for 10-15 amps tops. If you're using your stadium lights for any length of time, you'll want to make sure they get full power for optimum performance under constant load. Another thing you can do is connect your lighting to a junction block that power is distributed out to the Tractor. Make sure the Alternator's voltage sense lead is connected to that junction block so the VR can regulate current flow properly while all the lights are on. When the lights are turned on, the VR senses the load and ramps up the Alternator accordingly. This will also keep the Battery happy. If you go directly to the Battery, the Battery will start to loose its reserve depending on how long the lights are on. (load) Depending on how many lamps you install, 14 gauge wire is fine to "daisy chain" the lamps together. It might be a good idea that your circuit feed wire be 12 gauge going from your junction block to the lamps up top. Again, greatly depends on the load and the length of the circuit. HTH Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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plummerscarin
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Joined: 22 Jun 2015
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Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 7:00pm |
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The light bars I add6to my 7060 came with a harness which provided relays and switches for that setup. I would have used relays anyway if not provided. Also added a circuit breaker to the firewall for the new lights. Then fabbed a bracket to mount the lights to existing drain holes in the roof. I got called out on that but standing water in the gutters has not been an issue. I keep the muffler painted black but it definitely glows when the lights are on
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calico190xt68
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Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 9:09pm |
My 7010 has a chrome mounting plate on front and back of cab for the stadium lights so it was easy to use that plate and those holes for mounting the light bars. I am guessing you must have an early 7060 that caused you to have to make mounting brackets? Maybe you don't also have the toggle switches at the top of the cab like I do?
I learned something from Steve in NJ about that alternator sense wire. I continue to think that the LEDs are not using as much power as the old Stadium lights for me to not have any issues.
None of those wiring kits with relays, switches and fuses ever mentioned connecting the alternator wire to the wiring block.
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 02 Feb 2021 at 6:56am |
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Correct. I have an early maroon belly. The cab has no provision for stadium lights like my 7045. The only new holes I drilled were for the light cable and that was in the same location as the 7045. I did not know about the sensing wire for the alternator but since I added the circuit breaker and ran a jumper wire from the existing breakers maybe I solved that issue by accident?
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Tbone95
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Posted: 02 Feb 2021 at 7:04am |
 calico190xt68 wrote:
Well, maybe I screwed up on my 7010 but I thought the amps would be about the same or less as the original stadium lights. So I just replaced the stadium lights with light bar on back and light bar in the front and used original wiring. My stadium light switches do work and I have had no problems so far. I have used them for an extended period of time like about 4 hours. If your switches don't work or you want to wire directly into the battery then relay/switches would be wise.That's what I was kinda thinkin' I do want to say that I am very happy with light bar in back. It is wider than the front and I was able to get a good angle downwards. I can see equipment very well.
The light bar in the front is probably going to get taken out. The problem is that I can't see out to my left and right. The light bar can only be pointed forward. A curved one probably can't curve enough. Original stadium lights can be pointed about any direction.
I replaced my standard cab lights with a 4 inch LED blub that went into the original enclosure and those are great. I did lose high and low beam due to the style bulb I bought. I think those same bulbs can be placed into the original stadium lights as a flood light bulb. So, I am going to try that. I can swivel those stadium lights. If I can't replace the bulbs in original enclosure with LEDs, then I will probably buy 4 LED lights and mount them.
Even though the muffler is supposed to be black, I was also get reflecting glare of the muffler back into the cabin from the front light bar. With original lights that won't happen.
I also replaced the light on the back fender with an led that has side lights. It just barely clears the window when opening it. It provides great light on the 3 pt mounted hay mower.
I am also considering mounting two lights that point directly in front by mounting on the frame rail, so that I can see forward better. I don't want to drill a hole into the sheet metal. Those would have to be wired directly to battery with switch and fuse since there is no equivalent light there. I had to drill a hole for the bale monitor so I already have a place to run a wire to a switch. |
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calico190xt68
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Location: Frankton, IN
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Posted: 02 Feb 2021 at 9:21am |
I looked at some pictures of those early cabs and they don't have much opportunity to mount lights, that's for sure.
One idea I had to add more flashing yellow LEDS on the back of my tractor was to remove the current yellow lights and then mount an aluminum square tube into those screw holesfor oringal lights. I would make the square tube into a flashing yellow light bar. I would premount a complete row of flashing leds. Aluminum is easy to drill and won't rust although you will have to ground to the screw going into cab for better ground.
If you did that on the front, I am wondering if you could then mount an L aluminum piece to the square tube where you could drill holes for the light bars or stadium lights.
If you wanted to take back to original, just remove the aluminum and put back the flashing yellow lights back . This is just a theory though.
Due to daytime job, I mow hay on a wednesday or thursday at night time to make sure the hay is dry for the weekend so I can't imagine not having lights. I have also finished round baling at night a few times with lights when rain was coming next day.
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 10:19am |
A lot of aftermarket companies never mention the voltage sense wire coming from the Alternator to monitor the system. Its always one wire Alts, one wire Alts. Everything is routed to the Battery. The Battery then has so many parasitic draws off it, that it can't keep up with all the power it needs to feed out. A one wire Alt without its sense wire connected just sends current to the Battery. There's no adjustment for current draw on the system because the sense wire isn't used. Not good. If you have a Tractor that's equipped with a Mag and headlights and tail, a one wire will work great. Start adding more accessories to it, and then the Battery has a little tougher time feeding other things when everything is on. Reserve starts to lower. Also, an Alternator tied directly to a Battery can eventually drain the Battery down when sitting for a long time. (like a Generator can) If the Tractor is used frequently, then there isn't a problem. When you install a junction block, run a Battery lead off the Battery to the junction block, run other accessories off that block and include the voltage sense wire, the VR can now monitor the current usage and ramp the Alternator up to increase current load as its used. There isn't a draw on the Battery, and everything in the system gets full power. I think these aftermarket companies stick to the "simple" part of the hookups. Little do they realize, one more wire to hook up is no big deal........ Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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