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Huey3476 
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Joined: 04 Feb 2019
Location: cato ny
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 Topic: wiring diagram
Posted: 04 Feb 2019 at 6:21pm |
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i am replacing the ignition switch with a 3 position switch and getting rid of the push button start on an allis chalmers d14. Does anyone have a wiring diagram where to connect the wires on the 3 position 5 prong switch?
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Jim.ME
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Location: Maine
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Posted: 04 Feb 2019 at 7:10pm |
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Look closely at the back of the switch. Often the terminals are marked, either on or beside them.
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DSeries4
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Posted: 04 Feb 2019 at 8:46pm |
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Owners manual has a wiring diagram on the last page. That can help.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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DougS
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Posted: 04 Feb 2019 at 9:29pm |
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What are the terminals marked as on the switch? I can go from there, but not all switches are alike.
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 11:45am |
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Can you post a good clear photo of the back of the switch with any markings legible? As posted, switches are different so its not just 1-2-3-4-5.
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Reindeer
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Location: Calgary, AB
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Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 5:37pm |
If you don't have a wiring diagram for the switch, I would suggest you use an ohm meter to test the circuits on the key switch. If you are able to identify the power in terminal, then it should be fairly easy to find the ignition and accessory/light outputs, which will have continuity when the key is on. The starter solenoid will have continuity when the key is in the start position only. There may be a ground terminal for the key switch body, but often not. Typically would look something like this.
Edited by Reindeer - 05 Feb 2019 at 6:30pm
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DaveKamp
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Location: LeClaire, Ia
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Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 8:41pm |
Huey... One of the most common failure circumstances I've encountered with D-series, is the keyswitch start. Failure mode- ignition will fire in run position, but the run-contact sector reaching into the START momentary position burns open (fails to conduct).
It's been my experience that the best solution to keyswitch start (ignition) contact failure was to replace it with a pushbutton.
Why would you choose to go the other way?
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Huey3476
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Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 3:56pm |
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Huey3476
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Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 3:59pm |
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to make it easier since i had to rewire the whole tractor
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DougS
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Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 4:02pm |
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B= Battery
G= Ground
S= Starter solenoid
L= Lights (accessory)
M= Motor? (probably ignition)
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 4:03pm |
That switch looks very much like 99% of the lawn tractors I've worked on. Might actually say Indak on it or key ?
S connects to starter solenoid M connects to magneto ( NOT used on D-14)
L connects to lights and ballast resistor that goes to ignition coil
G connects to GROUND( note it's connected to shell, NOT used on D-14)
B connects to battery
Jay
Edited by jaybmiller - 11 Feb 2019 at 4:06pm
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 4:06pm |
If he uses a real key switch that will handle the load, he won't have any problems. Using a Garden Tractor switch (like whats in the picture) will not cut it on a big Tractor that has more load on the circuitry. AC did not have their thinking caps on when they used a switch that wouldn't handle the load more than 15 amps. Hence the reason why you don't find any "D" series Tractors with nice original wiring systems in them. They've all been cobbled because the Ignition switch was way to light for the job, and the wiring along with the switch burned up! In my wiring systems, I offer two switches. Heavy and optional Heavier....
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Huey3476
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Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 7:49pm |
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i have a 6 volt regulator on it do i still need the ballast
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 8:51pm |
that all depends.... IF you have a 6v battery AND a 6v coil WITH INTERNAL ballast resistor, then no BUT, and there's always a few butts.....
there's 4 or 5 combinations of batteries and coils you 'could' have depending on who owned /repaired the tractor.
The best way to tell to tell is to disconnect thecoil to distributor wire and put an ammeter in series. turn key on ( do NOT start). you should get a reading of about 4 amps. if zero, short( ground) the distributor ( points) side of the ammeter. NOW it'll red 'something'... again should be about 4amps. If it's higher, you'll need a ballast resistor. They are usually about 1.5 ohms+_ a bit.
You don't want to draw more than 4 amps otherwis the points will arc/spark/pit.....
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Hill
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Posted: 24 Dec 2020 at 10:26am |
I agree that to handle the load must be used a real key to switch it. In general, the internal construction of a rocker switch can be in one of two states, thus it can be turned to one side or turned to the other, this is how you can to flip a device on or off, and the metal-bearing snaps down the switch, and then it makes contact with one of two sides depending on which side the switch is flipped to. But you know it is always better just to call someone who knows how to fix some particular issue, if I cannot fix it myself I always call the same known guys for all my electrical problems http://bates-electric.com/locations/charleston-sc/ they are proved, so I can be calm when they do some work in my house with the electricity. Moreover, they make their work very fast and their services don't cost a lot
Edited by Hill - 03 Jan 2021 at 7:41pm
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 24 Dec 2020 at 12:10pm |
You need a switch like this Standard Motor Products one. Contact Steve at B&B or go to a auto parts store, like NAPA. The terminals will be marked if it is a quality one like this, you can check that before you buy it.
Edited by Jim.ME - 24 Dec 2020 at 12:11pm
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